distributor removal and installation
so i need to get the distributor out of my 85 XJS HE and cant see where the rotor is supposed to pop off, or how do i put the distributor back on after and have the timing right
Removing the distributor is fun at best.
Engine at TDC PRIOR to undoing anything.
The rotor should be pointing "basically" at 1B cylinder. Dont get all sweaty if it is not exact. Mark the centre line of the rotor tip on the casing as a reference for later, dont worry why, just do it, you will understand when re-installation takes place.
The rotor WILL BE stuck to shaft, so get a screwdriver, place it on that star wheel and push down with equal force to what you are applying to PULL the rotor off. Failure to do this will have the rotor shaft "rise up" and the springs and bits in the bottom will be buggered permanantly.
The 3 socket cap screws can now be released in a rotational sequence, and the distributor body will "rise up" out of the valley plate. The ventral shaft will rotate as this happens, so note the direction (I forget, I do that), as this will aid re-installation. If you get it wrong, then you will need to lift it again, and again, until you get it right. The line you marked earlier will be key indicator to "as was" timing here.
Once re-installed, the timing will more than likely be very close, but I bet not spot on. Many methods of timing the HE. I have a "word doco" on it if you want it. PM me your email and I will send it to you.
I have never timed one as per the book, I have this absolute fear of things spinning at 3000rpm right near my nose, so I have "my way" and it has served me well for many year, and many, many V12's.
Engine at TDC PRIOR to undoing anything.
The rotor should be pointing "basically" at 1B cylinder. Dont get all sweaty if it is not exact. Mark the centre line of the rotor tip on the casing as a reference for later, dont worry why, just do it, you will understand when re-installation takes place.
The rotor WILL BE stuck to shaft, so get a screwdriver, place it on that star wheel and push down with equal force to what you are applying to PULL the rotor off. Failure to do this will have the rotor shaft "rise up" and the springs and bits in the bottom will be buggered permanantly.
The 3 socket cap screws can now be released in a rotational sequence, and the distributor body will "rise up" out of the valley plate. The ventral shaft will rotate as this happens, so note the direction (I forget, I do that), as this will aid re-installation. If you get it wrong, then you will need to lift it again, and again, until you get it right. The line you marked earlier will be key indicator to "as was" timing here.
Once re-installed, the timing will more than likely be very close, but I bet not spot on. Many methods of timing the HE. I have a "word doco" on it if you want it. PM me your email and I will send it to you.
I have never timed one as per the book, I have this absolute fear of things spinning at 3000rpm right near my nose, so I have "my way" and it has served me well for many year, and many, many V12's.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Jan 5, 2014 at 07:01 AM.
Grant,
I'd like a copy of that doc too (just sent you my email address concerning the cold start issue). I've never summoned up the courage to sit under it at anything other than idle.
Regards,
John
1987 XJ-S V12
I'd like a copy of that doc too (just sent you my email address concerning the cold start issue). I've never summoned up the courage to sit under it at anything other than idle.
Regards,
John
1987 XJ-S V12
NOPE.
That snap is pointing at 1B.
You need a drink HAHA.
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It is slightly confusing! Grant means that the rotor is physically pointing towards cylinder 1B. Which is is in your photo.
You mean that the rotor is physically pointing to the 1A pole on the dizzy cap (were the cap there). You are correct too! I shall be amending the notes that Grant kindly sent me to remove any confusion for later readers.
Interestingly, reading the Allan Scott TWR XJS book that Santa Claus brought me, because of the small space between dizzy poles and the chance of spark scatter at high RPMs, they had a dizzy cap with holes cut out of each side of the 1A pole, which they used to ensure the rotor was exactly middled on the 1A pole.
Greg
You mean that the rotor is physically pointing to the 1A pole on the dizzy cap (were the cap there). You are correct too! I shall be amending the notes that Grant kindly sent me to remove any confusion for later readers.
Interestingly, reading the Allan Scott TWR XJS book that Santa Claus brought me, because of the small space between dizzy poles and the chance of spark scatter at high RPMs, they had a dizzy cap with holes cut out of each side of the 1A pole, which they used to ensure the rotor was exactly middled on the 1A pole.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; Jan 7, 2014 at 02:08 AM.
Bugga, I remember now, this is getting scary. I've either got to drink more, or less, mmmmm, I think teh former sits better.
I had a piece of exploded V12 cap a loooooooong time ago. It picked up 2 of the 3 screws, and the way it had seperated gave me a very good visual of that exact area.
No idea where it is today, probably in on of the many dozens of boxes of Jag stuff I must sort one of these day, HAHA.
When you think about it that distributor is spinning at 3000rpm+ when you are in a hurry, and that really makes you think how fast that ignition module/coil etc are all doing what they must to keep that engine running, so the margin for error is very small indeed.
I had a piece of exploded V12 cap a loooooooong time ago. It picked up 2 of the 3 screws, and the way it had seperated gave me a very good visual of that exact area.
No idea where it is today, probably in on of the many dozens of boxes of Jag stuff I must sort one of these day, HAHA.
When you think about it that distributor is spinning at 3000rpm+ when you are in a hurry, and that really makes you think how fast that ignition module/coil etc are all doing what they must to keep that engine running, so the margin for error is very small indeed.
It is slightly confusing! Grant means that the rotor is physically pointing towards cylinder 1B. Which is is in your photo.
You mean that the rotor is physically pointing to the 1A pole on the dizzy cap (were the cap there). You are correct too! I shall be amending the notes that Grant kindly sent me to remove any confusion for later readers.
Interestingly, reading the Allan Scott TWR XJS book that Santa Claus brought me, because of the small space between dizzy poles and the chance of spark scatter at high RPMs, they had a dizzy cap with holes cut out of each side of the 1A pole, which they used to ensure the rotor was exactly middled on the 1A pole.
Greg
You mean that the rotor is physically pointing to the 1A pole on the dizzy cap (were the cap there). You are correct too! I shall be amending the notes that Grant kindly sent me to remove any confusion for later readers.
Interestingly, reading the Allan Scott TWR XJS book that Santa Claus brought me, because of the small space between dizzy poles and the chance of spark scatter at high RPMs, they had a dizzy cap with holes cut out of each side of the 1A pole, which they used to ensure the rotor was exactly middled on the 1A pole.
Greg
I will amend my version of the "word doco" also.
Thanks Greg.
I would also like a copy of Your word doco, I have pm'd My email
OK, you are NEW, so welcome to the real world.
I cannot send you a PM at the moment, as your post count is only 1.
I will try a "visitor message" in a minute or two.
I cannot send you a PM at the moment, as your post count is only 1.
I will try a "visitor message" in a minute or two.
I realize this is very old thread, but I am having a lot of trouble getting my Xjs v12 1988 tuned up. It has bee standing for more than 20 years and I’ve started it, but I suspect the distributor was installed one tooth off, as I have 12 degrees after TDC and all I managed to correct moving the distributor was going down to 8 degrees after TDC
other symptoms include some knocking/hesitation when accelerating and unstable idle
id love to see that timing document! Thank you
other symptoms include some knocking/hesitation when accelerating and unstable idle
id love to see that timing document! Thank you
Thank you Francis. Old like us, I’d rather say… vintage.
Distributor is out, under distributor seal was shot and leaking oil anyway, so good to have it out. I will change the vacuum unit anyway, as current works but age unknown.
With distributor out, it’s clear to see how easy it is to install it a tooth off, which is what I think my problem is.
Thanks again!
Distributor is out, under distributor seal was shot and leaking oil anyway, so good to have it out. I will change the vacuum unit anyway, as current works but age unknown.
With distributor out, it’s clear to see how easy it is to install it a tooth off, which is what I think my problem is.
Thanks again!
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