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Hi all. I thought it better to start another post and not put this on my shock absorber post. Anyway as I had to rebuild the rear calipers and replace the discs etc last year I thought that this winter I would rebuild the fronts along with new discs etc. I have just pulled the n/s hub to find this ?? Not sure what’s happened here
You mean the seal being left behind on the spindle?
This looks like the later style seal on ABS and/or facelift cars?
It also looks like the same seal used on my X300 which was the very devil to replace....to the extent that I vowed to never try replacing on again! Extremely hard to install into the hub. Later I found out ....from reading the ROM....that the seal was intended to be installed onto the spindle and not onto the hub.
Unless there's signs of grease being slung around I'd leave it alone
Hi Doug. My car is ABS just odd how the seal is like that. I have cleaned the hub and bearings out and they are all fine. I have new hub seals ready to put it all back together.
OMG the crap in my O/S caliper even blocking the fluid passages. One piston solid the others very stiff but now all out. Bores look fine and will clean up ok for the rebuild.
I would carefully run multiple flushes of brake fluid through the system using the Teves procedure, not the Jaguar procedure. If you've got that much crap in the calipers, you want to really hope that you haven't got similar in the ABS valve block.
Hi Paul.
I did this when I first got the car flushed all the old fluid out. It was horrible and black so the rest of the system is good. The front calipers are the final bit to do in the brake system.Just shows what happens when the fluid isn’t changed regularly.
I would now do multiple flushes through the back again and the front. The valve block is complex and you can't get fluid through some of the ports if an ABS condition isn't happening. So I'd just keep doing flushes back and front and hope it picks up as much fluid, dirt and sediment as possible from the valve block ports, filter baskets and passages. The other thing you might want to do is very carefully dismantle the valve block and clean it out.
Inner bearing slides onto the shaft ok and is fairy tight so I assume ok. I have now realised the seals I have purchased are for an earlier car and after checking the ones fitted to the car and also heeding DDs advice I will leave the ones fitted alone. There is no sign of grease being thrown out of the hub. I have been reading about locking the bearing to the shaft with loctite but not sure on this.
Robbo
FWIW i do not think loctiting the inner race to the stub axle is a great idea.
First off, you cannot loctite the outer bearing race as that has to move to adjust the bearings' play upon assembly.
Secondly, as this one is just as likely to wear as the inner one, in the event of any wear the stub has to be replaced anyway.
Regular checking of too much play on the bearings and adjustment as needed will prevent any excess stub axle wear.
I do mine up to finger tight giving no play, and that has worked well for me.
Last edited by Greg in France; Dec 22, 2024 at 01:39 PM.
Thanks for coming back to me. I will go with your suggestion and leave as is. This is probably the first time the hub has been off since it left the factory so it’s done ok so far. Just clean and re grease the bearings rebuilt calipers and new discs it will be good as new. Still undecided on which front shocks to go for though.
Thanks for coming back to me. I will go with your suggestion and leave as is. This is probably the first time the hub has been off since it left the factory so it’s done ok so far. Just clean and re grease the bearings rebuilt calipers and new discs it will be good as new. Still undecided on which front shocks to go for though.
Boge or Gaz adjustables. If you go for Gaz, strat the fronts at 13 clicks up from softest. In my experience, only Boge give the precise factory ride quality, but Gaz are damn near it and can be easily tuned to you personal preference.
If you ever do the rears, AVO platform adjustables or Gaz platform adjustables are great. Platform adjustables enable the ride height and side to side levelling to be precisely set. A bit dear though...