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Finally got it all ripped out. Cleaned the tank and sanded a bit of the rust off. Can't tell where the leak or leaks are but it's coming from somewhere! I put a couple gallons of vinegar in to clean it and hopefully some seeps out a small hole.. The patented rivet wore right through the pad and rubber cover. Ripped out most of the carpet and washed everything and then simply green'd it all. Gasoline is just terrible to get out of anything. Not sure if I should just use a tank repair kit and slop it all over or take it to a pro?
Liquid on top and soaked in the foam under Soaked and thrown out. Ha Rivet
That's the little bugger, and another WHAT WERE JAGUAR THINKING.
I don't know how easy it is to put the rivet in from the top with the rear cage in the car, my cage was out when I did mine.
To find leaks in the tank, use compressed air, seal up all openings and pressurise the tank to 15psi or so, soapy water in a squirt bottle will cause bubbles at the leaks.
That's the little bugger, and another WHAT WERE JAGUAR THINKING.
I don't know how easy it is to put the rivet in from the top with the rear cage in the car, my cage was out when I did mine.
To find leaks in the tank, use compressed air, seal up all openings and pressurise the tank to 15psi or so, soapy water in a squirt bottle will cause bubbles at the leaks.
what is the rivet for?
Yeah i I have a compressor so I should just use it. This has been one of those things that smells so awful I'm considering just having a pro do it so there's no chance of old gas again!
Looks like a miserable job! I would have it professionally sealed so that I would not have to do it over. Besides if you did find the leak how do you intend to fix it? Propane torch and Solder? I burned up one E jag and a garage fixing a fuel pump. It's the gasoline fumes that get you. It's your call! Good Luck!
The rivet held a pipe over the axle. I can't remember what the pipe was for though.
On my car the rivet was holding the woodchip heat shielding that is between the axle and the body. I removed it and no bother as a result. FWIW, I would not dent the tank, but remove the rivet.
As for repairing the tank, I had mine coated with about 1/4 inch of radiator solder by my local radiator guy. Absolutely superb repair. I would also change whatever was under the tank before for a sheet of neoprene. The smell will never be eliminated otherwise. Also, even professionally applied interior coating seem to fail eventually, so if you can find one, a decent second hand tank is a good option. I also have a feeling new ones are now available from SNGB, but I a not sure.
Greg
On my car the rivet was holding the woodchip heat shielding that is between the axle and the body. I removed it and no bother as a result. FWIW, I would not dent the tank, but remove the rivet.
As for repairing the tank, I had mine coated with about 1/4 inch of radiator solder by my local radiator guy. Absolutely superb repair. I would also change whatever was under the tank before for a sheet of neoprene. The smell will never be eliminated otherwise. Also, even professionally applied interior coating seem to fail eventually, so if you can find one, a decent second hand tank is a good option. I also have a feeling new ones are now available from SNGB, but I a not sure.
Greg
On top of that fitting kits with new pipes and base etc. are also available (bottom of link). Prices are in Euros but you can always change it to your desired currency.
Looks like a miserable job! I would have it professionally sealed so that I would not have to do it over. Besides if you did find the leak how do you intend to fix it? Propane torch and Solder? I burned up one E jag and a garage fixing a fuel pump. It's the gasoline fumes that get you. It's your call! Good Luck!
Yeah that's why I was thinking of having a pro do it... I would probably use a POR sealing kit that won't work and it driving myself crazy doing the job again and perhaps lose another knuckle. Ha
I've got to do the same job when I get to the rear of my XJ-S...
I won't be removing the rivet. Simply putting a dent in the tank where the rivet goes would be the easiest way around it.
Got any tips how to get the tank out best? Seems to be "quite a few" hoses/pipes in that area...
Yeah there are quite a few hoses. I just took a bunch of pics to help get it back together(hopefully). Be prepared for gasoline leaking out of pretty much any hose and the secondary tank shot gas like a gun on me. I tossed all the mats and most of my trunk carpeting. Just an awful mess and odor! Hardest part for me was getting the filler tube off. Had to use a plyers to get a good enough grip and then afterwards it looks like it's screwed down with a tab but I couldn't find the screw mounted anywhere ha. And you'll have to take out the 2 black brackets on the sides where wires are attached and the ecu. It's not a hard job at all it's just a pita with the gasoline and fumes. Ugh
On my car the rivet was holding the woodchip heat shielding that is between the axle and the body. I removed it and no bother as a result. FWIW, I would not dent the tank, but remove the rivet.
As for repairing the tank, I had mine coated with about 1/4 inch of radiator solder by my local radiator guy. Absolutely superb repair. I would also change whatever was under the tank before for a sheet of neoprene. The smell will never be eliminated otherwise. Also, even professionally applied interior coating seem to fail eventually, so if you can find one, a decent second hand tank is a good option. I also have a feeling new ones are now available from SNGB, but I a not sure.
Greg
yeah I was going to ask around and see how much it will cost to have someone repair it. And I have a buddy who has the hookup on foam where he works. The new tank would be nice but wooo pricey. I do like the new hose/foam side and back kit they have on their site though.
Yeah there are quite a few hoses. I just took a bunch of pics to help get it back together(hopefully). Be prepared for gasoline leaking out of pretty much any hose and the secondary tank shot gas like a gun on me. I tossed all the mats and most of my trunk carpeting. Just an awful mess and odor! Hardest part for me was getting the filler tube off. Had to use a plyers to get a good enough grip and then afterwards it looks like it's screwed down with a tab but I couldn't find the screw mounted anywhere ha. And you'll have to take out the 2 black brackets on the sides where wires are attached and the ecu. It's not a hard job at all it's just a pita with the gasoline and fumes. Ugh
Luckily my tank is empty... I mean, totally empty I used the fuel in my XJ8 as I knew it would stand a little longer...
On my car the rivet was holding the woodchip heat shielding that is between the axle and the body. I removed it and no bother as a result. FWIW, I would not dent the tank, but remove the rivet.
Greg
My axle heatshield was attached to raised brackets around the edges of the shield, you can see the raised brackets near the speed sensor and the screw on the far side, the rivet held a plastic white pipe retainer. Maybe it's model year dependent...
When you replace the foam used closed cell so it does not soak up the fuel small.
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I went for the DIY repair and it has worked out well so far. I also opted for a different solution than neoprene sheeting for the pad. Here's the thread if you're interested.
Warren, that under body looks awesome! Did you remove all the underfloor coating gunk and then use something different? Mine has some coating under there and I was considering removing it all (or better having it removed) and applying some good old Volvo bitumen (stays soft for ever and keeps water and stones away from even getting near the body).
I removed the underfloor coating from the entire car with a heatgun, paint scraper and wire brush. It took me weeks to get the underbody ready. If I were you I would have someone else do it.
The new coating is modern sounddeadner/stone guard, with chassis black over the top.
I have a place in Hamburg that does the job with CO2... So I won't touch it myself But I'd apply the good stuff personally... To make sure it is done correctly.
Did you come accross any rust spots under the stuff?
I went for the DIY repair and it has worked out well so far. I also opted for a different solution than neoprene sheeting for the pad. Here's the thread if you're interested.