Any tips for getting all the washers and seals aligned and reinserting the shaft?

I got the outer shaft in and aligned the inner as close as I could but am having much grief trying to gt the assembly back together.

Currently on beer brake!

 

The key is getting the so called "dog bone" casting that bolts up to the side of the diff exactly aligned with the cage holes. Any misalignment is the reason the shaft will not go through.

One way to go about it is to have some horseshoe-shaped shims, then loosen off the casting a touch and thread the shaft through everything - which should be easy. Then gradually tighten up the casting fixing bolts, frequently testing the shaft b y pushing it in and out a short amount, to see if it is binding. If/when it starts to bind, insert a shim to hold the casting at the free point, and continue like that.
The bearing bits should stay in the wishbone eyes, proving they are glued up with some stiff grease.
Greg

 

A bit frustrating getting everything lined up. I take the shaft to the bench grinder and bevel the end a bit, sort of like a 'pilot bolt' but not so pointy. This helps a lot, as the bevel (as opposed to blunt) end sort of self-aligns everything as it passes through.

Cheers
DD

 

That's what I do as well. Get everything installed then shim to allow easy movement.

Cheers
DD

 

I gave everything a liberal coating of grease. that holds all the washers in place. Start at one side and slide the shaft though, then move to the other side and side all the greased washers etc in place. You might have to pry back the cage to give enough space, but it will go. The grease holds everything in place, and I also used a tapered punch to get everything centered.

 

Yup, grease is a great holder-in-placer

Sta-Lube boat trailer wheel bearing grease is *especially* sticky and useful in this regard

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the response but I don't understand. Are the shims "U" shaped to fit around and hold the washers in place or around the dog-bone? When you say "loosen the casting and thread the shaft through" this is where I'm having a problem. Has anyone ever posted any pictures of the process?

 

The shims are item #6 in this illustration. The 'casting' is #5

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-mounting-rear

Cheers
DD

 

As shown in Doug's diagram, the shims go between the diff casing and the back of the dog bone casting, thus slightly moving the casting into or away from the diff. This is to enable the cage holes to exactly align with the dog bone holes. The shims are U shaped so they can be slipped in from the top when the bolts are loose (from the top so they cannot fall out in service). It is a very good idea to Loctite the dog bone to diff bolts once all is aligned properly; they have a habit of working loose.


Greg

 

I was confused but now I understand. ;-))
Not sure if I'll get to work on it this weekend.
I'll update when I get back to the garage.

Thanks again -

 

#7 and #8 in the illustration below?

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-mounting-rear

Good reminder!

Mine were safety-wired, as I recall (Jeeez, it's only been a few months....what's happening to my memory?) so I re-safety-wired them.

(In fact, I've used safety wire rather than Loctite throughout the car. I just think the safety wire is a neato novelty, I guess. This silliness has added many hours to the already-too-much expenditure of time, not that I particularly care, mind you. I've enjoyed the effort and am gradually becoming more skillful. I've surely wasted 300 feet of wire getting respectable results that I'm not ashamed of, but it's been fun. There's no sensible, logical, practical reason to do this when Loctite is a perfectly good substitute)

Cheers
DD

 

I had my fill of safety wire back in the 60's working on C124's and C-130's.
Today I am a big fan of loctite!

 

Finally got everything lined up and back together.
Next challenge - Get it bolted up to the car!

Thanks guys

 

Put the front IRS mounts on the body, and the rear ones on the cage before you try and lift it into place. It's easier that way, trust me!

 

I didn't remove the mounts from the cage so they should be in the correct position. Would you still recommend removing the front ones to put them on the the body?

 

No, I would leave the mounts on the cage. It is quite easy to get the cage and mounts lined up with the holes in the chassis, providing you have a jack under the cage and a helper if possible.
Greg

 

Depends. I found I couldn't get the front mounts past the anti roll bar, so had to put them on the body. Do whatever works for you.