I removed the cam banjo bolts and oiler tubing. I have read about the original banjos only thread in approximately three threads, and it is recommended to install new longer banjo bolts. There is another article, that says that the longer bolts also only went in three turns. I was also thinking about using the upgraded rubber with aluminum ring from the thin copper ones. SNG only sells the original short banjos C29652 and C5846. Where can you purchase the longer banjos? And should any of the parts be upgraded?

 

Lok on UK ebay, this guy does everything:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324493979...Bk9SR_SHl_vMZg

 

Not true - I have them installed, have the half moon items too, and the timing chain cover 'bung' and the longer banjo for the radiator bleed ... all from the same fella. I did have my aux air valve sorted by him too but I won't be using it.

 

Thank you guys for the contact information. I have two different sizes of oil banjo bolts (2) 1/2"-18 1-1/8" long, (2) 3/8"-16 3/4" long. Would you guys recommend using the thicker copper washers that come with the kit, or the thinner rubber upgrade gaskets (attached Pic)?

 

Copper all the way rubber will not last long, where these go rubber isn't an upgrade - heat + oil + pressure don't make for a friendly environment - be real careful with the torque you can still strip the threads out of the head if you go all gorilla. I did mine by feel but I've been messing with cars 50+ years ....

 

Thank you for the information. I am restoring my Dad's 1989 V12 XJS including all new piping, tubbing for brakes, fuel, vapor, air and as many gaskets I can get to eliminate oil leaks. I'm trying to install new, like new or upgraded parts. Do you want to let go of your aux. air valve? My dad's car has one, but there is no air adjustment bolt in it. How can you test the valve to see if it is working and where to set the adjustment bolt to start adjusting? I also need a new air switching valve EAC3827 for the air injection if anyone has a like new valve for sale. Any good supply houses that have high quality gaskets? It seems like SNG only sell the old paper gaskets and Beck Arnley only makes a couple of gaskets that fit the car.

 

Aux air valve can be verified by sticking the bottom of it in hot water - they have a habit of sticking if they don't work for a period of time, they work like a thermostat, from memory the start setting is two turns out from fully closed though I'd need to dig back into my notes to verify and no guarantee that mine was set correctly. I'd have no issue parting with the aux valve but I suspect getting it to you wouldn't be that straightforward given that I am in the UK.

You need to keep your eyes open for a set of 'Payen' gaskets, they do come up from time to time, you can also backup the lower quality ones with an old school product called blue hylomar (was the go to for the likes of Rolls Royce). The big challenges will be the sump / sandwich plate, the O rings for the oil pickups age harden and that's a problem, cam cover gaskets and the half moons that you have identified at the back of the cam boxes. The sump is easy, the sandwich plate and oil pickup O rings not so much. The rear oil seal may give you a challenge but addressing it is a lot of work - it is a rope type seal and needs the engine and box to be pulled out. (you won't find pulling the transmission any fun at all).

Don't underestimate any of the vacuum lines replace them all and look real hard at the intake manifold gaskets - both manifolds were loose on mine when I bought it .

Keep the feet on the ground there is no limit to how many 'while I am doing this' rabbits to chase on an XJS.

Air switching I can't help with we don't do that in Europe - you may get a favourable result if you contact a company called Simply Performance who have all kinds of stock (https://www.simplyperformance.com/)

 

With reference to the banjo bolts, my understanding is it's not that the bolts are longer, rather the "hole" in the bolt is longer so that it better aligns with the oil passage. This allows for a thicker (more effective) copper sealing washer.

Check Kirby Palm's book. It goes into detail on the correct hole location to effect the sealing washer change.

 

It is both.

 

Gaskets: Talk to Jack Weston at David Manners Jaguar parts. They have Payen ones. I recommend dressing them each side with Gasgacinch: https://www.gasgacinch.com/
Or Permatex aviation form a gasket No 3: https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-liquid-16-oz/

I would not worry about the crank rear seal until you have done everything else and used the car for a year or so. Any leak there, if there is one at all, is more likely to be the metal to metal seals involvedd in the rear crank bearing assembly than the actual crankshaft rope seal. This can be done engine in car on a lift, with courage...

You also need to check all the supension rubber components and replace as needed.

 

Patrick,
I have spare AAV's but will suggest getting one from a junk yard if you have one near you. It will be cheap - unless you get it from a Jaguar dismantler such as Jag Heaven or NOMA. New or rebuilt ones are pricey.
You almost certainly need a new AAV hose (short and 90 degree curve) as well due to age and brittleness. The AAV is held in place with two star bolts. Star driver on a socket extension makes removal an easy job.

I'll have to check on having a spare air diverter valve however are you sure you want to do this? The air injection system is an 80's stopgap anti-smog system. I can guarantee that at least some if not most of the small pipes are plugged with rock hard carbon at this point meaning the system doesn't even work. Three or four options:
1) Leave it alone;
2) Pull the air rails off, soak them in solvent to clean out the internal pipes, install new air diverter valve, reinstall air rail pipes (get a pack of new "O" rings);
3) Remove air rails; use set screws to seal air pipe holes OR get a set of European spec cars manifold plugs (about $125);
4) #3 above plus remove air pump and replace with European spec car idler pulley (This is what I did)
NOTE: Some have even re-located the Alternator up to the air pump space providing much easier access.

 

I just received the two new SS banjos and thicker washers and compared the new banjos to the original. The banjoes are a little longer and the holes have moved further down the bolt for the thicker Cu. washers.