lower control arm bolt stuck
#1
#2
#4
Calvin,
Many, many years ago, we had a S3 that would not bash out.
Much language later we hired one of those electric "jack hammer" chisel things, with a flat faced tool in its snout, and got into it. It still took some serious HARD work, but it did come out.
The daughters S2, NO WAY would either of them come out, so we simply swapped cradles from a PerHE XJ-S.
Probably not the suggestions you really want to hear, but that's my experience with the tough ones. All the others have simply tapped out easily.
Many, many years ago, we had a S3 that would not bash out.
Much language later we hired one of those electric "jack hammer" chisel things, with a flat faced tool in its snout, and got into it. It still took some serious HARD work, but it did come out.
The daughters S2, NO WAY would either of them come out, so we simply swapped cradles from a PerHE XJ-S.
Probably not the suggestions you really want to hear, but that's my experience with the tough ones. All the others have simply tapped out easily.
#5
If the suspension 'took-a-hit' and the fulcrum bolt is 'S' shaped, then the best way is to use a 'cut-off' wheel/metal saw and sever the bolt at the bushes, pull the lower arm and remove the pieces.
Rusted bolts might come out easier if cut and they are shorter. You can determine where the corrosion is and isolate the section for heat or penetrating oil.
The oil pan on the V12 will get in the way of the bolt removal so the subframe will need to be lowered or the engine raised. The 3.6 or 4.0 will be easier.
(been-there, done-that)
You might help us (and YOU) if you put some details on WHAT CAR YOU HAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
Rusted bolts might come out easier if cut and they are shorter. You can determine where the corrosion is and isolate the section for heat or penetrating oil.
The oil pan on the V12 will get in the way of the bolt removal so the subframe will need to be lowered or the engine raised. The 3.6 or 4.0 will be easier.
(been-there, done-that)
You might help us (and YOU) if you put some details on WHAT CAR YOU HAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
#7
This is what I did with mine which was utterly stuck:
Greg
- Remove cradle
- Put hacksaw blade into the electric saw
- There is JUST roome to cut between the inside of the arm and the cradle
- Cut both sides
- Arm falls off, burn out old bush from arm holes
- Take huge drift and lump hammer and belt out piece of arm in cradle
- Derust and crease up cradle before refitting new pin
Greg
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#9
Just to make sure we are talking about the same part, you are trying to remove the lower wishbone fulcrum bolt?
Ok I don't have to much experience with jags but have played around with many cars and trailers mainly marine, and they just they rust!
You have the cradle removed from the car that's fantastic and a great start.
Find a thin cutting blade for a grinder, even a little 4" will do the job and cut the back of the bolt clean off, not the threaded side. You will be changing the bush's of course well I would hope so, even if you cut into the bush, all good.
just make sure you cut through the the shaft of the bolt and leave no bits larger than the shat. after your done then refit the castle bolt to the threaded side with a washer bigger than the bush. Tighten the darn thing up and after its tight, hit the darn thing with a rattle gun! The first thing it will make it do is spin inside after it turns a bit it will come loose. once it turns freely rift it out from the cut side.
Nothing seems to work better on rusted bolts and shafts than a rattle gun, butt you must cut the other side of first. Be careful not to damage the wishbone while cutting. Some Inox or WD40 or penetrating oil sprayed onto the bolt works wonders as well
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
Ok I don't have to much experience with jags but have played around with many cars and trailers mainly marine, and they just they rust!
You have the cradle removed from the car that's fantastic and a great start.
Find a thin cutting blade for a grinder, even a little 4" will do the job and cut the back of the bolt clean off, not the threaded side. You will be changing the bush's of course well I would hope so, even if you cut into the bush, all good.
just make sure you cut through the the shaft of the bolt and leave no bits larger than the shat. after your done then refit the castle bolt to the threaded side with a washer bigger than the bush. Tighten the darn thing up and after its tight, hit the darn thing with a rattle gun! The first thing it will make it do is spin inside after it turns a bit it will come loose. once it turns freely rift it out from the cut side.
Nothing seems to work better on rusted bolts and shafts than a rattle gun, butt you must cut the other side of first. Be careful not to damage the wishbone while cutting. Some Inox or WD40 or penetrating oil sprayed onto the bolt works wonders as well
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
#13
I ended up using a hacksaw and cutting off the bushings which allowed me to spray some penetrating oil into the bolt hole. I then worked the bolt by trying to tighten and loosen it which then "broke" it loose. I then sludge hammered the fulcrum pin out. I purchased two new ones which were zinc coated from sng Barrett for about $20-$30 each and put lots of anti sneeze compond when I reassembled it. I originally tried my best to save them but bashing it with the sludge hammer really screwed it up.
#14
#18
try map
You can try a map gas tourch from your local big box store. Map gas burns hotter than propane. Heat up the affected parts and let cool it quick with water. That should crack any rust that may be holding it... do this about three times. Then heat it up again and bang it out. I hope this frame is in some sort of large vice or some thin else firm. If not put it back on the car.
You may also find success just heating up the bushing in a ventalated area they should melt and then see if the rod comes out. Make sure you have a fire extingisher at the ready. The rubber will burn and drip.
You may also find success just heating up the bushing in a ventalated area they should melt and then see if the rod comes out. Make sure you have a fire extingisher at the ready. The rubber will burn and drip.
#20