I have a 1990 XJS that is pissing steering fluid out as fast as I put it in. Here is a picture that illustrates what is going on:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By_...it?usp=sharing

My questions are in a LH drive car, how do you remove the circled hose? Do you remove it at point A or at point B? How do you do this? I've looked a bit and don't see it. So I'm probably looking in the wrong place.

I do all of the work on it but it's the school of hard knocks that does all of the teaching. Can anyone help!

Thanks!

 

That hose is a nightmare on a LHD car. I've done them and it's always a different way. My first try, I had my left arm bent backwards going in from the front underneath trying to reattach it to the rack and pinion. That hurt. If I remember correctly, that hose has a hard line loop going across the front of the subframe then goes up and back to the pinion. There is not much room on the left side of the engine but I think I had to remove the oil filter and remove the rack from its mounting to give a little slack and access to the hose at the pinion housing.

 

Great diagram! That is the high pressure hose. It sounds a lot of work, but it may he easiest and quickest to drop the rear of the subframe. You need a beam across the top of the engine standing in the gutters of the wing/bonnet closure. Such as:

Then attach it to the rear engine lifting eyes;
The raise the car at the front or on a lift;
Then undo the shockers at the top;
Then undo the steering column/rack pinch bolt;
Then undo the engine front rubber mountings from their engine brackets (remove air cleaners and you can just get a spanner into the space at the top of the bracket and unto the nut;
Then support the subframe with a jack and undo the two rear mounts;
Then lower the jack a bit, the subframe will swivel down on the front 6 shot bushes' huge bolt;
You can come down just as far as the front brake flexibles will let you, and also as far as the engine/subframe earth strap will. If you need to come down further, the flexibles and/or earth strap have to be disconnected;

Now you can clean up all sorts of mess on the subframe, and get extra access to the space the PS hose runs in on the subframe top. Sounds a lot of work, but it is straightforward, and it will allow you to have a good look at, and clean up things you otherwise cannot see. Also let you look at the other low pressure hose and its condition. your local hydraulic hose repair place will red them both for not much, and you are good for 10 years!
Greg

 

Dain,
i've a leak on my 89 XJS and cannot seem to find the source.... How did you locate when the leak was... I can't even see the part you are talking about !!
Thanks,
Ken

 

If you remove the airbox you can sort of see the hoses. They leak right there because the peak of the bend and stress is also right next to the exhaust manifold.

You basically have to remove the bolts for the rack and pull it down so you can access the hoses. I had to remove both of mine from the rack to remove the high pressure line. It took a very long time to get it threaded straight, don't rush it and ruin the rack. Just fiddle with it until it threads in.

I couldn't find the hose at a decent price so i got a local hydraulic shop to make me one for $65. The best part is that is modular, so if i need to replace it in the future it will be even cheaper. Just keep your head straight, just like any annoying brake work, and don't cross thread

 

I ended up taking it apart enough that I was finally able to see that it was physically leaking from there. Otherwise I don't know what I would have done. Painful process of elimination, I guess?

 

Mine only leaks when I try and reach in and remove the cap for an inspection. LOL... Why can't the Brits make it easier on us. LOL. I have been using "Lucas power steering fluid with conditioners" in my system with very good success. Very smooth and quiet. I do not use the Lucas stop leak... There is a difference. I drained out the Dex fluid and replaced with Lucas power steering fluid. No leaks...

 

I stayed with my shade tree mechanic , and watched /helped him in replacing a new Saginaw pump on my 92 v12. Mine was leaking like a siv. He removed the air breather and flew right at it from the top We thought the overflow radiator tank would need to be removed but did not need to. With an assortment of sockets and wrenches he wiggled it out and installed the new one, We used the same pressure valve that was in the old one. Be careful you do not break the line going to small cooler that cools the power steering fluid. Most of the work was done by feel as it is quite tight to work the old pump off and new one on. It can be done from the top and took him about three hours. He pressure washed the underside removing old oil and was good to go. job well done.

 

I found my leak after many attempts to stop the very expensive oil leaking.

The quad ring seal at the top of the pinion gear was twisted on assembly