XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Replacing 94 XJS Front Coil Springs

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Old 01-17-2014, 01:07 PM
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Default Replacing 94 XJS Front Coil Springs

I am getting geared up to replace both of the front coil springs on the 94 XJS.
I've rounded up 2 ways to do it -

1. Make a Jaguar replica service tool using a large screw bolt, washers, nuts and a angled pipe fitting to remove the bottom spring plate and the spring

Or,
2. Use 6 long screws to replace the screws one at a time in the bottom spring
retaining plate and then back the longer screws out a little at a time until
the spring tension is relieved..

I am leaning towards the 6 Long screws method at present.

And no, I will not do the cutting torch method.
Do not suggest a regular coil spring removal/compression tool.
They don't fit properly on the XJS springs.

Does anyone know of a different method for the spring removal?

At present I am using the rubber coil spring boosters to keep the springs up
to a comfortable height. The shocks are managing, barely.
So, the spring replacement has become a necessity.

None of the current dealers in the Atlanta area want to perform this task
for a reasonable fee. and they claim they do not have parts.
I acquired a set of springs 2 years ago along with new shocks.

Another Springtime XJS adventure is in the making I believe.
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:25 PM
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I just did this on my 95 XJ6 and the same tool applies to my 94 XJS.

I went with the threaded rod method and it worked great. I used a 3/4" (19mm) hardened rod with a 32mm long by 3/8" (8mm) rod through the top act as the locking pin. Then a load of fender washers and a hardened nut. Having a long ratcheting spanner is a BIG help as it's tiring work

I used two 10" long M8 rods to help locate the pan when I was re-installing. It's very straightforward.

This is what mine looks like.

Replacing 94 XJS Front Coil Springs-spring-removal-tool.jpg
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:42 PM
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I originally made a similar tool to the Jaguar one, but did not like it. I ended up using threaded rod. This worked great and could be easily used under the car. And the main advantage is the bolt holes are already lined up when you re-install the spring pan.


 
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:08 AM
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Another reason for replacing the springs is to rid the suspension and steering components
of the horrible spray-on undercoating applied when the car was in Michigan.
Whoever did it didn't even wash the underbody first.
They just covered up all of the dirt and road salt that had accumulated on the underbody
with the under coating.
I scraped some off to see what the springs and spring pan looked like and discovered
the road sand/salt combo sealed against the suspension components.
I noticed that the fuel lines look a little suspect and I found some pinholes of corrosion
in the driver side floor pan.
Aren't the fuel lines stainless steel?
Hopefully, they are not corroded.
The only thing worse than no maintenance is bad maintenance!
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:41 AM
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I have tried both methods. Using four threaded bolts (no need for all six) is a much better method. I think only four of the bolts are parallel. The two closest to the ball joint point at an angle and can't be used. Truth is, I've used as few as two or three to perform the install! I bought some 3/8"-24 threaded rod at Grainger, some nuts, and some washers and went to work. Don't forget to lube the threads.

BTW, I have a set of front King lowering springs that would work for your car. I bought the wrong springs. They're not low enough for me.
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:37 AM
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I guess that's why I like the hybrid approach. The 8mm threaded rods help guide the pan and using a large ratcheting wrench on the central threaded rod makes re-installing a snap. I nicked the idea off an XJ40 owner

Replacing 94 XJS Front Coil Springs-spring-pan-re-install.jpg
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:53 AM
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I, too, use both the large center threaded rod AND the threaded rods into the lower control arm

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by scarbro2011
I noticed that the fuel lines look a little suspect and I found some pinholes of corrosion in the driver side floor pan. Aren't the fuel lines stainless steel? Hopefully, they are not corroded.
The fuel lines are bundy tubing and will corrode, particularly where they exit the boot corner and go over the wheelarch. I think yuo are very sensible to get all the got off and treat it properly. The floors are notoriously prone to rusting out.

Greg
 
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:32 PM
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Well, I guess I'll be looking at doing a fuel line replacement in the near future.
A closer inspection at the fuel filter area shows the fuel lines in poor condition.
I guess that is a subject for another post.
Thanks for the encouragement and tips for doing this task in a safer manner.
 
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