Spark Plugs Stuck
Hi all.
now in the process of changing the plugs. I have cleared out the valley and removed the compressor (No gas) so got plenty of room. I wanted to clean it all out anyway. 9 plugs out fairly easy and changed. I have 3 to go all have moved a bit so at the moment they are soaking in some penetrating oil. I have purchased some PB Blaster so will have a go with that when it arrives. Been reading good things about it. All the old plugs are champion with the exception of the front A bank which is an NGK. God only knows when these were last removed.
Rob.
now in the process of changing the plugs. I have cleared out the valley and removed the compressor (No gas) so got plenty of room. I wanted to clean it all out anyway. 9 plugs out fairly easy and changed. I have 3 to go all have moved a bit so at the moment they are soaking in some penetrating oil. I have purchased some PB Blaster so will have a go with that when it arrives. Been reading good things about it. All the old plugs are champion with the exception of the front A bank which is an NGK. God only knows when these were last removed.
Rob.
The joys of the "catch up".
I use Diesel Fuel/ATF as a 50-50 brew, and let it soak.
If they have moved, as you say, I would wind them back, after the soak, and then out again, SLOWLY, and keep working that way.
Snapping one off is really not a good situation.
I use Diesel Fuel/ATF as a 50-50 brew, and let it soak.
If they have moved, as you say, I would wind them back, after the soak, and then out again, SLOWLY, and keep working that way.
Snapping one off is really not a good situation.
Put a socket on the plug that will seat against the hex on the metal shell, or a piece of pipe that fits over the porcelain and seats against the metal, and use a hammer to smack it straight downward a few times. Then try to turn it. Don't get too carried away or you could damage the head.
Put a socket on the plug that will seat against the hex on the metal shell, or a piece of pipe that fits over the porcelain and seats against the metal, and use a hammer to smack it straight downward a few times. Then try to turn it. Don't get too carried away or you could damage the head.
Hmm not to sure about smacking it. All 3 plugs move a bit so in theory the penetrating oil should work its way down the threads. It doesn’t really matter how long it takes as I can’t go anywhere at the moment.
Rob.
Rob.
If they all move a little, I would go with PB Blaster. Some light tapping will help loosen carbon on the threads and will not hurt anything unless you really get carried away. If you can control the heat and avoid fire, heating the plug shell and allowing it to cool can also break the bond between the plug and the head. You may need to chase the threads when the plug is out. If you use a commercial plug thread chaser, be careful not to go too deep in, it is sometimes possible to bend a valve. I would suggest taking an old plug that has good threads, use a Dremel type tool to cut 3 grooves in the side, similar to a tap, coat it with grease to catch debris, and run that in and out of the damaged plug holes. That will not go in too deep, and will prevent valve contact. use compressed air and a blow gun with a long tip to go down into the cylinder and blow so air, and any debris, goes out the plug hole. Then coat your new plug threads with anti-seize, and install it. Reduce torque by about 20% for having lubricated threads. Good luck!
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Hi Robbo
I'm with Greg on that one
When I did the Plugs on my Car it took me 3 days!
One Plug out then one plug in and whatever you do, just make sure that nothing drops down those holes, or its 'game over'
The Plugs on my Car were so tight that I had to use a Torque Wrench to get the leverage to get them undone
Then when you put the New Plugs back, they only need to be 'nipped up' plus about 5 degrees
Changing the Spark Plugs on my Car 'Cherry Blossom' Changing the Spark Plugs on 'Cherry Blossom' my 1990 XJS V12 and also removing and cleaning the Injectors
I'm with Greg on that one
When I did the Plugs on my Car it took me 3 days!
One Plug out then one plug in and whatever you do, just make sure that nothing drops down those holes, or its 'game over'
The Plugs on my Car were so tight that I had to use a Torque Wrench to get the leverage to get them undone
Then when you put the New Plugs back, they only need to be 'nipped up' plus about 5 degrees
Changing the Spark Plugs on my Car 'Cherry Blossom' Changing the Spark Plugs on 'Cherry Blossom' my 1990 XJS V12 and also removing and cleaning the Injectors
No hurry. I done exactly as you said one out new one in until it’s just seated then another 5mins of the clock if you know what I mean. Been cleaning the valley out as well it was filthy. I can’t understand why people would buy a car like this and not bother to maintain it properly. Bloody ridiculous.
Rob.
Rob.
No hurry. I done exactly as you said one out new one in until it’s just seated then another 5mins of the clock if you know what I mean. Been cleaning the valley out as well it was filthy. I can’t understand why people would buy a car like this and not bother to maintain it properly. Bloody ridiculous.
Rob.
Rob.
Oh and - enough of my blabbering. There are some things I will wack on (lots actually) and there are things that I wont... Spark plugs, in an aluminum cast definitely land in the things I WON'T category... Also, I (and this is just me) would not and would NOT be looking forward to the day where I am tapping new threads (shaving metal) in a cylinder head while its still on the car. Nope, not me. A small dusting of aluminum shavings sitting on the top of each cylinder just WAITING for action at the first turn over.
If they are already moving some, and you can get some acetone and atf, PB or the like on them (a pool in those wells) and leave them for a spell, rock them back and forth gently for a couple of days, they will come right out. Dont be affraid to go a bit in the direction of TIGHT in the process of loosening them up. It makes it so you dont have to DRAG the gunk up the thread as much...
Its gunna be alright.
Hands down the BEST penetrating oil is SiliKroil, or AeroKroil.
Its available from them
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
and even Amazon has it.
You'll be amazed and never go back
Bobmo
Its available from them
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
and even Amazon has it.
You'll be amazed and never go back
Bobmo
As with any repair on any car, trying to rush through it will result in problems. These cars are the "mother of all frustration" take your time, especially since the motor is already cooperating with you, it's just making you wait a bit.
Hands down the BEST penetrating oil is SiliKroil, or AeroKroil.
Its available from them
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
and even Amazon has it.
You'll be amazed and never go back
Bobmo
Its available from them
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
and even Amazon has it.
You'll be amazed and never go back
Bobmo
And, as a bonus for dedicated gear heads, the Aerokroil has the most delicious aroma.
Quite expensive, though. I reserve it for special occasions.
Cheers
DD
Awesome! I've been kinda,,,,
Where did ya go!?
Have an AM beer after that first one and,,, then 9more?
Where ya at???
Where did ya go!?
Have an AM beer after that first one and,,, then 9more?
Where ya at???
Still struggling with this last plug. Turns about 3/4 of a turn then locks up. I have just run the car up to temperature and gave it a squirt of penetrating oil. I’m hoping this might draw some down the threads as it cools. I thought I had buggered something as it wouldn’t start just spluttered then I noticed I had the coils connected to the distributor the wrong way. Changed them over started no problem.
Rob.
Rob.
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