XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Strange engine start incident

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 03:03 AM
  #1  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default Strange engine start incident

Saturday morning, I was taking my XJS to a car show, but it wouldn’t start so, forget about the car show. It acted like a discharged battery, only making a “click-click-click” sound. I tried my nice portable starter that I’ve successfully used before to start the larger-engine on my XJR, but it would only do the same clicks it did with the car battery. I should add that, since I do not drive this car much, I had the battery charger/maintainer connected until the day before and the green LED was ON, which indicates a fully charged battery, yet the engine wouldn’t crank.

So then I pulled out the big guy, my old Sears charger (50 amp) / engine starter (170 amp) on wheels. I tried to start the car and it did the same “clicks”. Tried again and this time -like totally against its will- it started to crank and finally started out, however immediately after this the rpm’s went up to almost 2000 rpm’s, then came down to about 1000, but here it began to surge up and down like back up to 1500 rpm’s then down to like 900, doing it every 2 seconds. like booom – booom - booom, or like if I was pushing the gas pedal every a couple of seconds. I tried to make it behave by flooring the gas pedal and it would raise the rpm’s accordingly but when I released the gas it’d go back to its booom-booom again. Then I turned the ignition off and tried to restart it again and…believe it or not, it started right out and no booom-booom anymore. I’ve re-started the engine again, several times and it starts like nothing ever happened.

I could just blame it on a bad battery, but the one jump starter could not crank the engine either and even the big jump starter device was very close to incapable to crank that engine. Also, I cannot blame the engine idle surge on the battery. Something is wrong, something is causing those 2 incidents (no start and the surge) but it appears to have resolved itself, which I hate because I need to know what’s wrong. I just hope that somebody here has heard something similar because I have no idea what happened, or worse yet, what IS happening. Why so difficult to crank the engine and with different, proven devices and then why that rpm surge up and down. There may have been a message on the trip computer, but disconnecting and connecting back the battery I forgot that doing that I could erase a message, or do messages remain in memory regardless? Dunno. Right now there’s no message. Feedback is most welcome.

Cheers,
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:30 AM
  #2  
Steve M's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 3,748
From: Wiltshire, UK
Default

Non cranking could be down to a poor earth on the starter motor.
You will need a hefty jump starter to turn the engine over (I presume that it is a V12?); I've had smoke coming out of ones that aren't up to the job.
Hunting is often down to a failing AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve); there are loads of posts about it on here.
Does the hunting ease off as the engine comes up to temperature?
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:44 AM
  #3  
rgp's Avatar
rgp
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,591
Likes: 439
From: S.E.LONDON
Default

could be the starter solenoid not throwing in the pinion I had the same years ago and fitted a high torque starter motor to it, sound proper as well and weighs a lot less,
 
Attached Thumbnails Strange engine start incident-066.jpg  
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 07:54 AM
  #4  
malc4d's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 470
From: Orlando
Default

Just a thought.....For a while all I got was the click on trying to start the car, traced it down to the start relay, one of the 3 blue relays on the right wing/fender under a cover.
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 07:54 AM
  #5  
Greg in France's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,567
Likes: 10,758
From: France
Default

This starting problem sounds like a possible earth (ground) fault. A good idea to very carefully clean up the engine earths that go via the subframe, and a very good plan is to add an extra one direct from the alternator bracket to the chassis frame.


As to the hunting, are you sure there is no pool of No2 lying around??!!
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 07:55 AM
  #6  
Greg in France's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,567
Likes: 10,758
From: France
Default

Originally Posted by rgp
could be the starter solenoid not throwing in the pinion I had the same years ago and fitted a high torque starter motor to it, sound proper as well and weighs a lot less,
Rex
Which model did you buy, please, from which source?
Greg
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 08:29 AM
  #7  
orangeblossom's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 17,809
Likes: 3,945
Default

Hi Greg

That Hi Torque Starter Motor looks like Model RAC404A from motorsport-tools.com

(UK) Company https://www.motorsport-tools.com/pow...ter-motor.html
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 09:02 AM
  #8  
rgp's Avatar
rgp
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,591
Likes: 439
From: S.E.LONDON
Default

Originally Posted by Greg in France
Rex
Which model did you buy, please, from which source?
Greg
I think it was this lot
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....5/category/242
or
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....3/category/242


they appear to have changed the look of them
 

Last edited by rgp; Apr 30, 2018 at 09:06 AM.
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 09:12 AM
  #9  
rgp's Avatar
rgp
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,591
Likes: 439
From: S.E.LONDON
Default

Originally Posted by orangeblossom
Hi Greg

That Hi Torque Starter Motor looks like Model RAC404A from motorsport-tools.com

(UK) Company https://www.motorsport-tools.com/pow...ter-motor.html

404 rings a bell but not 404a I think its all about pinion size
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 01:09 PM
  #10  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Originally Posted by Steve M
Non cranking could be down to a poor earth on the starter motor.
You will need a hefty jump starter to turn the engine over (I presume that it is a V12?); I've had smoke coming out of ones that aren't up to the job.
Hunting is often down to a failing AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve); there are loads of posts about it on here.
Does the hunting ease off as the engine comes up to temperature?
Oh, it seems that I forgot to indicate that this is an AJ6 car, not a V12. The car has never given me the slightest hint of a bad connection problem, or any lazy engine starting, but then, the rpm surge will have nothing to do with a poor ground connection, or with a suspect starter motor. They are totally different in nature and it'll be one heck of a coincidence that both different problems happened at the very same time, so they must be related. I wonder if all those unsuccessful attempts to crank/start the engine, all that click-click may have caused an odd reaction from the ECU that triggered an rpm surge that later resolved itself? --- I didn't have a chance to check if the problem persisted as it warmed up because it didn't run much through this incident in the garage. When the rpm surge stopped and I got it to start out normally and repeatedly, I just shut it down. -- I do like your hint in regards to the AAV, but were you talking V12?

Cheers,
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 01:45 PM
  #11  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Originally Posted by rgp
could be the starter solenoid not throwing in the pinion I had the same years ago and fitted a high torque starter motor to it, sound proper as well and weighs a lot less,
You know, I have actually been wondering if, with 110,000 miles, some items may begin to break down anytime, but so far I've been lucky with most only soft problems with a couple of exceptions with exhaust items. Maybe the starter motor is beginning to kick the bucket, so I'll be paying good attention to engine starting quality. I was actually suspecting the blue start relay from the very beginning and I guess that it could still be that, so if the no-start repeats I'll replace that blue relay first, but the problem is that this would have nothing to do with the possible re-occurring of the rpm surge problem, so I'll have to dig some more on what did cause that problem.

Cheers,
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 01:55 PM
  #12  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Originally Posted by Greg in France
This starting problem sounds like a possible earth (ground) fault. A good idea to very carefully clean up the engine earths that go via the subframe, and a very good plan is to add an extra one direct from the alternator bracket to the chassis frame.


As to the hunting, are you sure there is no pool of No2 lying around??!!
Not sure what you mean by "pool of NO2" (nitrogen oxide). At first I thought you were kidding me meaning "N2O", since you may know that this car has nitrous injection... although it is impossible to have "a pool" of N2O because at ambient it quickly evaporates. So, No2?
 

Last edited by Forcedair1; Apr 30, 2018 at 01:57 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:45 PM
  #13  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Originally Posted by malc4d
Just a thought.....For a while all I got was the click on trying to start the car, traced it down to the start relay, one of the 3 blue relays on the right wing/fender under a cover.
Yes, I'm aware of that blue relay and I will replace it anyway, although is now working just fine, but just in case. However, most responses are only about the no-start problem, but the engine surge concerns me more because it's not just a soft surge like with vacuum leaks, but rather like a firm acceleration like if I was doing it with my foot.

Well, I've been reading a little about the motorized idle speed control valve and its interface with the ECM. Not easy to fully figure it out, but enough to tell me that it doesn't appear possible that this function can generate a fast rpm increase to 1500 rpm and to repeat it over. However, the actual idle speed function of the ECM depends on input from just about every possible condition, or sensor/device in the system and who knows what happens when one of those devices fails to send a (correct) signal. It may be that some false condition temporarily presented to the ECM from my various attempts to crank the engine and with connecting and disconnecting various power sources that induced a temporary erratic ECM response and then, maybe after I finally got it to start right and to idle normal, the ECM recovered from that and began again to work as it normally does, which tends to be a typical car processor behavior.
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2018 | 05:33 PM
  #14  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Well, to add insult to injury, today when I reconnected the battery my little digital voltmeter on the cigar lighter receptacle (have it rewired for always-hot) indicated 10.63 volts. Then, I connected the battery to my big charger and the charge needle shows no charging, even after an hour. Yet, only 3 days ago, the other charger/maintainer device LED was green, indicating full charge and the little volt meter was then indicating 12.4 volts. And, since the battery never did crank the engine (only relay clicking sound) hardly any electrical current has been drawn from its supposed fully charged state. It seems that just those "clicks" were enough to kill it. It's only 3 years old with five more pro-rate years left, so back it goes. Was it the battery all along? But then, why my strong portable jump starter wasn't enough to crank it either? And even the big guy really struggled to finally get it to crank. Good reason to check those ground connections, although right now starting current flow seems to be hunky-dory.

Cheers,
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 01:58 AM
  #15  
Steve M's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 3,748
From: Wiltshire, UK
Default

Try and substitute the battery for another, known good one.
Sometimes, if a battery is too goosed it won't pass current through properly even from a jump starter.
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 05:44 AM
  #16  
bladerunner919's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 534
From: Berks, UK
Default

Originally Posted by Forcedair1
Not sure what you mean by "pool of NO2" (nitrogen oxide). At first I thought you were kidding me meaning "N2O", since you may know that this car has nitrous injection... although it is impossible to have "a pool" of N2O because at ambient it quickly evaporates. So, No2?
I think you'll find it was a joke!
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #17  
sidescrollin's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,459
Likes: 695
From: Key West, FL
Default

I agree, pull the battery. A bad battery can make starting even harder.
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 09:33 AM
  #18  
JagCad's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6,796
Likes: 2,403
From: Walnut Creek, California
Default

From afar:


Two issues, possibly related.


1. Starter and or it's circuits have a flaw.


2. Over fueled. Nitrous or petrol or both!!!


Carl
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 05:56 PM
  #19  
Forcedair1's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 368
From: Southern California
Default

Originally Posted by Steve M
Try and substitute the battery for another, known good one.
Sometimes, if a battery is too goosed it won't pass current through properly even from a jump starter.
Here I'd tend to agree because I've seen similar before. The battery behaves like a low resistance/high amp resistor and it overloads the jump starter.
Another thing that I was beginning to suspect was whether it may be possible that these charger/maintainers that we keep plugged to the battery for fairly long periods may somehow be upsetting the proper charge/discharge cycles of the battery, kind of like it happens when charging to soon a rechargeable battery that creates a "memory" and it will no longer fully charge. I use these battery maintainers on my two Jags and the wife's Z3, but no problem with the other batteries, so far.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
yazooo
XF and XFR ( X250 )
8
Jul 5, 2015 11:52 PM
TreVoRTasmin
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
3
Nov 21, 2014 10:28 AM
tgt
X-Type ( X400 )
3
Apr 24, 2013 07:36 PM
Reverend Sam
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
9
Oct 26, 2010 08:19 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:35 PM.