I haven't been on here much, as I'm busy with other projects and my car has been pretty well-behaved these days. Until last night, that is, when she absolutely would not start. My usual garage has diagnosed a failed fuel pump (power applied directly to it does nothing, apparently). It was replaced almost exactly two years ago, with new filter and relay as well, and that was replacing a pump that was put in in early 2018.
Both of the new ones were Walbro pumps (NMD6013AA), and not suspiciously cheap ones from China, either. I know there's supposedly lots of fake Walbros out there, but aren't those the high-end ones for performance cars? And I've been careful to keep the tank topped up. Both times failing at the same time, during the humid, warm rainy season here... could that be an issue? How? There's no water anywhere near, and I can't see water getting in the tank (and I'm sure I'd notice that in other ways...or would I?).

So my question for the wise sages of the ages on these pages is, basically, why? Why do they fail on me so often? Is there something that could be affecting them other than just faulty pumps? Is there a reliable and cheaper alternative? Or at least a more reliable alternative? Denso? Bosch?

Looking at Jag Lovers (this set of photos), I wonder if the garage has maybe made a mistake in installation by not, for example, removing and putting on the old rubber ring, or reattaching the blue seal, whatever that is. If there are any tips and tricks for reassembling the fuel pump (the metal bit going inside the plastic shell, etc.) then I am all ears. Or eyes, as the case may be.... Then again, Orange Blossom's pics don't show any plastic shell.

So I'm confused, and rather annoyed, and hope that maybe third time's the charm with fuel pumps....
Any advice will, of course, be most gratefully received.

 

Assuming In Tank pump.

Not familiar withe XJS layout, but on my X300 cars, the In Tank pump had a Mini loom running from the access lid to the pump. These were a major PITA, and I made my own for both cars.

The connections was never TIGHT, and connectivity was always suspect.

The R with twin pumps the worst of all.

May not be the pump/s, just that stupid loom.

Still a mongrel to get and do though.

 

What's the fuel like in Japan? High Ethanol? How often do you drive the car?

Dont discount the fake pump theory or perhaps a Walbro wasnt used at all. Get a 1st hand close look at the pump and filter sock. Real Walbro's have brass gerotors, not plastic like the OE and they also feel heavy in the hand. Walbro's are also noisy and you would certainly hear a real Walbro at idle in the car if you listened for it.

The Failure scenario you mention is exacly the failure mode of the fake pumps I've had many times because I maintain an fleet of 10 older car. I can not see a real Walbro failing unless the tank was full of rust and debris.

I upgraded 2 cars with Walbro pumps in the last 3 years....One was an XJS with an XJR engine and the other was a dual V12 XJS setup. As far I could find there was no drop in replacement "Walbro" Pump. The Walbro I used had a brass gerotor and was larger that OE and had a different pickup. I had to fabricate a bracket to hold them in the tank. Both cars have been OK with infrequent use for years.

https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...pumps-2017-18/

I recently purchased a "Bosch 044" pump from a reputable source for my XJC and it just didnt look right. I ordered another from Amazon, it as slightly less dear and it was clearly a real 044. The fake one was super close though and would easily fool an untrained eye.

 

Thanks for the comments - much appreciated.

Grant: You mean a connection between the outside of the tank where the power goes and the actual device itself? I'll ask them to check when they have it out. OrangeBlossom might know what it's like in there, actually.

ICS:
The fuel here is high octane (at least what I put in). The RON Octane varies, I believe, between 98 and 100, but as Japanese service stations don't generally feature the octane rating (just "Regular" "Premium" and "Diesel"), I have to look it up.
The pump I bought two years ago was definitely a solid piece of metal, quite hefty, and I could often hear it buzzing in the back. Not always, however, and it seemed to get quieter as time went on. Or perhaps I just got used to it. I did examine the stamping on the case when I got the last one, and it looked good, with the notch and everything, but I didn't know about checking the rotors.

If I have to order another, I've got my eye on this one from Berkshire Jag. Amazon Japan has an URO (Made in China) one for 12,864 yen (about US$117), but I've never heard anything good about URO. Bkershire's website merely says "direct replacement" under Brand, but their eBay listing says it's Walbro. Oddly, it's more expensive than their website one by about 10%.

Oh. My. God. A company called JaguarParts dot com is selling the fuel pump for (hold it)... US$729.75!! Maybe that's for the entire housing, assuming the XJS uses that housing in Jag Lovers.

EDIT: This is the pump that I bought two years ago from a vendor on eBay. Currently out of stock. Electric Fuel Pump Walbro New NMD6013AAE

 

FWIW I can't imagine octane rating, in and of itself, having any bearing on pump life.

And in my neck o'the woods E10 has been standard issue for 20-25 years and none of my Jags in that time period have displayed an unusual appetite for fuel pumps.

Now, it's well known that various oil companies have their own additive packages which turn base gasoline into Shell, or Union 76, or BP, or whatever. And higher octane comes from additive packages. Maybe, just maybe, there's something going on in your area on along those lines; some odd additive package.

Dirty gasoline can certainly hurt a pump, as has been mentioned. And the fake pump thing seems plausible as well.

Cheers
DD

 

The garage boss did say that German cars can have issues in Japan as German petrol is more lubricating. But there are so many German cars here (Audi, Mercedes, BMW, VW) that surely it can't be a major issue.

Most of my fuel comes from Costco, and I have no idea where they get it.

 

Hi Someday

The Pre-Facelift Fuel Pumps as fitted to e.g. 1989/1990 XJS's are positive displacement Rotary Vane and are also very rugged and not exactly prone to going wrong, which is why I always buy the 'El Cheapo' ones

As the ones I have on my 1989 and 1990 only cost about £30 each and are still going strong after 5 years of use and in any event are so easy to change that I always carry a spare, which I could change by the side of the road in less than an hour if I had to

Not so with the Internal Pump, which is a 'Reactive Turbine' and which can be damaged in Seconds, if the Pump ever runs dry and are also very prone to getting clogged with any loose rust or dirt that may be in the Tank

Which is always really bad News as they can be a bit of a 'Nightmare' to change, as I have found out, where my own experience is much the same as yours with my Pump lasting only a couple of years

Its just the nature of the beast, so apart from doing a 'Mod' to the Pre-Facelift Pump, there really isn't much more you can do

How to change the In-Tank Fuel Pump on an XJS How to change the In-Tank Fuel Pump on an XJS

Alex

 

Thanks, OB. Yes, I had a look at your bit on that, which is interesting. I note that there doesn't appear to be any sort of housing for the pump like as shown in the pics of the XJ40 that I posted the link to at the start. Another interesting change is that my tank doesn't have the huge steel restraining plate. Pull away the carpet, and the tank's right there.

 

Hi Someday

That big Steel Baffle Plate is normally found on the Convertible 4.0L e.g. 1995 Facelift which is another big hoop to climb through to get to the Tank, especially as the Soft Top Hood Pump is also bolted to it, which adds an extra enhancement to the PIA Job that changing that Fuel Pump is

 

All of those sound like excellent reasons to avoid the ragtop, indeed....

 

I may have just jinxed it, but my 1994 6.0 convertible is still running its original pump and has about 175,000km on it.

 

Not happy that mine love to fail so often.