Whatever Greg meant ??

Downing Street could use your input I am sure hahaha.

I know, I will retreat to my cave and have words with the Hemi.

 

With respect, I didn’t say “best”, I said they were masters of brute force engineering. Also context matters, this is an engine from late 1960’s development and under resourced engineering, yet it is the most robust and reliable V12 of *that* time period.

I’ve mentioned this before, but the shop I used to go to before I started doing the work myself had a customer’s XJS that had done over 400,000 miles and never had the heads off and was still going strong. Is there any other V12 from that era that match that with just regular maintenance? How much would it cost to coax 400k miles from a 70’s Ferrari V12?

It’s not perfect, but in context it is pretty impressive.

 

I do so agree Mac; in fact, it is the most robust automobile V12 of any period, I believe.
Hence and therefore, assuming a properly maintained cooling system, the engine should NOT be babied, but redlined at every opportunity.

 

You're speakin' my language, Greg

Cheers
DD

 

Haven't had time to read through all of the comments here, forgive me if I am repeating something but as BenKenobi mentioned about oil filters, you really don't know what you are getting at times. Here is a link to an expose' on some filters that you may find interesting:

​​​​​​
Also, if someone is looking for a high quality oil there is another consideration. A good friend of mine is a distributer for oils, filters, wipers and such. Something that he pointed out to me and I don't doubt is that for the American manufacturers it's all about price point, whereas for the EU makers it's more about quality. He steered me to Ardeka as being a superior oil made in Europe. I've used it in my v10 super duty for engine and trans, bobcat ctl for engine thus far.

 

Another view on viscosity, we own an 03 crown vic and the 'suggested' weight went from 10w30 to 5w30. The only need for that specific weight on some fords is due to cam phasers. This car has none, so the only reason for the weight change in this case is to facilitate a gain in CAFE rating and nothing more. Corporate average fuel economy does not mean that a lower weight is better, only looks better on their bottom line to satisfy the green game. I would never use a '0' weight for anything that I own but that's just my opinion. Perhaps there are those on here that know better and can explain the reasons backing it up.

 

How would 5W-30 vs 10W-30 affect CAFE? When warm they are both 30 weight oils and will behave identically.

 

P

Perhaps I should have said 10w40 down to 5w30. I believe that's what it was. It was a discussion on the Crown Vic forum some time back.

 

An interesting comparison of oil weights:
​​​​​​ For those thinking about oil additives, here is one test:
​​​​​​ I couldn't find the one that I viewed some years ago but this is probably quite similar. One might say that it's not scientific in nature but it does show some real world results either good or bad. He does a pretty good job overall.

 

For anyone looking for some real data, here's one from someone who would know:
​​​​​​ From the results it would seem to be good to break in with 5w30 and then switch to the 0w20 thereafter in the proper climate zone.