When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just thought I would add this how to - it can be difficult to get the throttles properly synchronized running from one bank to the other.
This makes adjusting throttle body opening easy.
First step is to adjust ONE throttle for 0.002" clearance at the top between the butterfly and housing with the throttle closed. Then remove any backlash in the rod. I did the left first.
The first pic shows inserting 2x 2mm bits of steel to hold the throttle slightly open.
Next pic is the LH throttle body stop measured with feeler gauges with the 4mm shim in the pedestal. Once this was done I moved to the RH side and set the opening the same with feeler gauges.
Now both throttles open within a poofteenth of each other.
so if you have the throttle shimmed at 4mm, are you setting the throttle bodies at 4mm?
No - the shim in the throttle is only to open the throttles so a measurement can be made. Each throttle is then adjusted so they are the same distance from the stop.
I've bought a pair of those black throttle bushings that are supposedly often cracked, missing, etc. on our 5.3s, but could not figure out where they go. Looking at your pics, in #3, is that the bushing toward the bottom?
Just thought I would add this how to - it can be difficult to get the throttles properly synchronized running from one bank to the other.
This makes adjusting throttle body opening easy.
First step is to adjust ONE throttle for 0.002" clearance at the top between the butterfly and housing with the throttle closed. Then remove any backlash in the rod. I did the left first.
The first pic shows inserting 2x 2mm bits of steel to hold the throttle slightly open.
Next pic is the LH throttle body stop measured with feeler gauges with the 4mm shim in the pedestal. Once this was done I moved to the RH side and set the opening the same with feeler gauges.
Now both throttles open within a poofteenth of each other.
Bloody well done.
That "poofteenth" is going to drive Google nuts. AAH the Aussie lingo, so special.
I've bought a pair of those black throttle bushings that are supposedly often cracked, missing, etc. on our 5.3s, but could not figure out where they go. Looking at your pics, in #3, is that the bushing toward the bottom?
Start at the capstan, follow one of the rods to the end of the manifold, here you will see the lever the throttle rod is pushing is fixed to the throttle butterfly actuating rod running forwards to the throttle body.
You will see that the cabin end of this butterfly actuating rod is set in a hole in a triangular bracket. It is into this hole that the black throttle rod bushing fits.
i do that differently, i get the engine up to temperature after a rough setup, and heat gun measure down pipe temps, NO catalyics!
then adjust linkage slowly to get them even temps, make a drive and measure again, sometime a slight readjust!
works for me?
a made bushings from aluminum rod, and a lathe, any small shop could do them!
I've bought a pair of those black throttle bushings that are supposedly often cracked, missing, etc. on our 5.3s, but could not figure out where they go. Looking at your pics, in #3, is that the bushing toward the bottom?
the bushing fits on the end of the shaft near the linkage. Yours are probably completely gone mine were. The shaft was just loose metal to metal. The bushings I bought did not fit without turning down one end so they would pop in. I put them on and easy out in my drill and spun it against a file into they fit.
hope this helps.
It is easy to remove the housings from the manifold, Insert the new bushing and then slide the rod thru. Re-attach the housing to the manifold. 5-10 minute job.
I am confused about setting the butterfly valves to .002 clearance.
How does using 2mm or 4mm shims assist this process.
I unhooked the rods and opened the butterfly by hand inserting the feeler gauge at the top. The feeler gauge should be able to just pull thru the butterfly.
Next I adjusted the set screw until it contacted the stop. Locked it down with the set screw.
Repeated procedure on other side.
Finally, adjusted control rods to fit without slop when the capstan is turned. Immediate throttle response.
Last step is to adjust the idol. Don't forget to use the AAV to finalize the idol.
RESOLVED -!
Gentlemen , the problem was indeed that the butterfly was basically cemented to the body and was not moving at all, I had to put significant pressure on the butterfly for it to pop loose.
It seems to me that I used electrical contact cleaner to clean the throttle , as that's all I had with me at the time. Electrical cleaner I said to myself was more gentle than throttle cleaner ...but...it seems it was too gentle and the solvent allowed the varnish & gunk to microscopically re-
cement it's self at the edges of the butterfly.
So yes , on a S type 2000 3.0 the butterfly moves if pushed with the fingers and do not use electrical contact cleaner , it microscopically cements the butterfly shut. This caused the throttle butterfly to fail to open , resulting in a loud buzzing sound from the throttle body motor.& A fail safe mode dash display .
I want to thank the gentlemen above for taking the time to help me out ....my sincerest thanks 🙏.
The car is now good for 100000km , EVERYTHING has been redone that's serviceable.
V12 Throttle Body sync made easy
Looking at your pics, in #3, is that the bushing toward the bottom?
