I thought I bought Neoprene steering rack bushings from V12 Performance ... NEVER shipped...
because I bought them from v12s which never shipped them... or emailed or anything...

and when I forwarded them an Email because I thought it was v12 Performance they (v12s) sent me a NASTY email and canceled my order and refunded my PayPal...


that is good because I found them for 1/3 the price on ebay...


too bad for the misunderstanding



well
now prothane polyurethane steering rack bushing are on route to the house YEAH!

 

jon always somthing with mail orders, pix of my anti-roll bar poly bushes, just 2 yrs old, cracked and falling apart!

i just redid the bushes and bolt assemblies with USA made MOOG lifetime warrenty! cheap $18. dollars complete.

 

thanks...

I will look for those....

better to pay now and do it the first time w the lifetime warranty...
like the steering rack... found one with life time warranty...
have not bought it yet but when I do I will buy that one....

 

oh received my 20 White LEDs from China...
just placed 2 of them in the 3rd break light

why 2?

because I know which 2..... and when I ask my wife her opinion of the light coming from the 3rd break light she will not know that I did that and will give me an unbiased review...

some times change is good sometimes not so much....

 

jon did you notice the brake rotors, hi-perfomance slotted and dimpled, along with race type light weight calipers(not in pic).

 

Yes they look great!

 

My XJ-S now has an empty tank... 32l of finest 102 ron has been removed and filled into my C30. Got to get that first filter cleaned as my pump (new) is making suction noises...

 

Today I pulled the swirl tank, cleaned all the crud out, and there was a lot of it. It still runs crappy, misfires and backfires through the intake under load.
Darn! Back to the ignition system.

 

Changed 12 sparkplugs. The ones in there were platinum, and I put on standard copper core NGK.

Restored heat as heater stopped controlling blend flaps. Cleaned controller pins and it works now. Not sure why it stopped. All looked good and clean.

 

back to the LEDs again.....
Ok, so I may be making progress here, we live in hope. Found a slightly cracked track on the ribbon (repaired with Heated Screen repair paint) and an earth track that had folded over and was touching a live feed; that one probably explains the rev counter. Could someone post some pictures or describe which lights should come during the starting sequence?
Ignition on, cranking and engine running and then I can see if I have got it right this time.

 

Took the airfilter boxes out, took them apart and will be having them sandblasted... Shame when the engine shines and sparkles and the airfilter boxes are rusty and dirty...

At the same time I noticed, that my front oil cooler feed pipe has been badly bodged. Now it is dripping. Great! Next oily job to do!

Why can't this cat keep her fluids where they should stay?

 

Old age; incontinence besets us all eventually I am afraid.

 

Let to right:
Battery; oil, low water, lamp-out warning light, lightning bolt-shaped overcharge light, seatbelt if not done up yet.

If the heated screen repair paint does not do it, and it might not, stick a bit of thin copper or kitchen foil over the gap.

Good luck
Greg

 

my lamp out warning light only comes on ( then off ) when i actually turn on the lights

low water should not come on ? unless you have low water ?

thats how i see it ?

BB

 

I think that it runs through a test sequence so that you can check that the bulbs are working (or is that a bit too 20th century for an XJS?). How would you know if you had a bulb failure if your bulb failure bulb failed and you didn't have some way of testing it?
If anyone could take a note of what lights up when starting I would be grateful.
I don't want to fail again!

 

as I said , the bulb fail lamp comes on when I turn on the headlight switch , and then goes out if all is good......

but I suppose it can also test the brake lights etc ,

the only real way is for someone with known fully working dash lights to go a start up the V12 ?

as mine is jacked up and in bits I cant do it right now

good luck

BB

 

Correct Steve. As explained in my 1985 driver's handbook.These are ignition on lights, not starter engaged lights.

Greg

 

When I did my rebuild I changed the OEM bottom hose for a top quality Coolflex item, UK material manufactured into a hose in the USA. It is a copper/nickel alloy and can be bent to shape and stays there. Lifetime guarantee etc etc. Pic here:



Anyway, each end is actually joined by a short rubber hose, but as the water pump inlet is 52mm and the rad outlet is 45mm, the hose/water pump inlet had to have a double hose on the Coolflex to pad it out to 52mm, then a hose over them both. Worked fine for 3 years, but started to go home this summer.

So my winter treat was a top quality Viper Performance hose expander made out of nomex reinforced silicone and good for 250°C. So it should withstand the heat OK. It arrived yesterday with two top notch clamps. HUGE struggle to fit it as I did not want to pull the rad, but it is in, and a quick test blast seems to show 100% dry.





Greg

 

Today better yesterday, I ordered 12 new pintle caps, 12 new injector hoses and 24 ferrules. Maybe I can get the car running again. She deserves it!

Oh, and the crank case ventilation activator pipe... New from Jaguar. Those couple of Euros won't hurt but will look better!

 

New shocks and Aston DB7 springs for the back went on today and have totally transformed the handling.
The car sits an inch higher at the back than its previous saggy arsed squat and feels nailed to the road, much more planted and pointy.
Unfortunately the tautness of the suspension has exacerbated the lazy right rear brake which resulted in a close encounter with ditch/hedge/stream scenario.
Luckily I had bolted the new Momo steering wheel back on properly and was able to manfully save the day and nail it off down the road again.
Great fun!