The injectors are off for cleaning on my -75 xjs.
Any suggestions on ”other good to do” work to do while all the plumbing is out of the way?
(planning to at least change spark plugs).
Best regards, Patrik, Sweden

 

That list could stretch from Sweden to here, and half way back again, HA>

I would move the EFI loom out of the "V", and check it carefully, renewing what is needed.
Clean p all the "V", paying particular attention to the small wells around each spark plug, as anything in there will drop inside when plugs are removed.
Assuming the Inlet manifolds are still attached, go over each of the 24 nuts, and tighten FIRM only. They have a habit of coming loose on some engines. Mostly only 1/2 turn, but that can create a vac leak.
Renew ALL the fuel hoses, with new clamps.
Check the 2 oil sender units, they leak, and now would be a tad easier to change than later.

Not much else really, just look around a few times and attend to odd bits and pieces here and there.

Have fun.

 

Just to add a specific item to Grant's list thatI found when doing what you are: along the bottom of the V, as well as the injector loom, run wires for the temp gauge sender and for the aircon clutch activation. Also at the cabin end there are wires for the kickdown and maybe some other things, I forget. The insulation of many of these (on an HE at least) will be cooked and cracking off. If so, stitch in new pieces of heat proof wire using decent joiners and shrink sleeves; eg:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Shri...-/184014539204
and
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Shri...-/132636052381

 

Thank you Grant and Greg for the good input😁👌. /Patrik.

 

Isn't this the model which put the fuel filter in the boiling hot engine bay? If it's all off I'd delete and rehose that, and put the filter in the trunk where it belongs.

 

Forgot that one, YES>

I put ours on the lower Right side, forward of the shocker tower., and mounted to the Inner Guard panel, both on the Pre HE and the HE.

Dont like them in the boot either.

 

Oil your distributor. 1975 has the Lucas distributor that the factory tells you to oil at 60,000 miles. They assumed it would be 4-5 years max. Now 45 years later it’s doubtful it’s been oiled properly.
The reason to oil it is so the advance retard mechanism doesn’t freeze up. It’s the only way it gets lubricated.
Pop off the distributor cap and twist the rotor , if it snaps back quickly and smoothly, You are lucky.
go ahead and remove the rotor. In the center of the distributor there should be a felt button. Give it a generous squirt of engine oil. Put the rotor and carb back on. Repeat again in 4 years.
If the rotor is seized or jerky when returning. The distributor needs to come out, freed up and put back in.
Ask and I’ll walk you through it. It’s not hard. Of the many I’ve found stuck or jerky I’ve never had one that can’t be saved. The worst one when it went on my distributor machine was still in tolerance.
What will happen if not lubed is the timing will be off. It will still start and run normal ( the advantage of 12 cylinders) but it will tend to overheat.
Nope it’s not the water pump, fans, or the radiator,
To prove it check the timing. That’s really hard because the marks are on the bottom and the distributor is on the top. On my race cars because I check/ change the timing often. I move the marks so I can read them on top. ( involves fabrication)

 

Wrong post. apologies

 

Thanks Mguar, thats a great piece of advice oiling the distributor. I will do it, and come back with questions if needed👍

 

Hi Mguar, Took off the distributor cap. Looked like Three normal skrews, but turned out to be kind of pins...don´t know if I broke the when trying to turn them as normal screws. Inside the distrtibutor cap, there is a partly flaking red paint. Does it have a funktion or do you Think I can just take the paint off? The rotor arm just moves like 1 cm when I turn it, but springs back directly. Shouldn´t it be possible to turn it more than 1 cm? Took the rotor arm off and there is a hole. Is it in this hole I should put some Engine oil?

 

"Inside the distrtibutor cap, there is a partly flaking red paint. Does it have a funktion or do you Think I can just take the paint off?"
Take it off.
"The rotor arm just moves like 1 cm when I turn it, but springs back directly. Shouldn´t it be possible to turn it more than 1 cm?"
No. that is perfect.
"Took the rotor arm off and there is a hole. Is it in this hole I should put some Engine oil?"
yes, just a few drops of fully synthetic.

 

Yes that is correct the hole should have a felt plug but if you don’t have the plug you can just ad a few drops of Oil. Every oil change. ( not that you need it that often, but without a way to desperate oil over time it’s better to be safe than sorry.
yes for this application I prefer synthetic. But it’s not an absolute. Engine oil will work fine

 

Thanks! Will add some Engine oil as suggested. How about the three screws that holds the distributor cap to the distributor body. I Think the broke when I took the cap off. Strangely there seem to be no threads on the screws, but I Think i snapped them off in the middle and one half seem to be stuck in the distributor body. Do you know if it is possible to buy these screws, or do you think I could just drill the old ones out and replace with any other suitable screw?

 

Thanks Greg! Much appreciated!