XJS HE - Temporarily remove Aircon
#1
XJS HE - Temporarily remove Aircon
1985 XJS Coupe V12
Is there any fundamental reason why I can't remove the Aircon Compressor and associated hoses and then drive the car normally?
Assume I will plug any hose that disappears beyond the bulkhead.
I am hoping to fix numerous oil leaks and generally clean up the engine bay would prefer to not have to deal with the compressor each time I need to re-do something.
The air conditioning is currently non functional.
Regards
Coxy
Is there any fundamental reason why I can't remove the Aircon Compressor and associated hoses and then drive the car normally?
Assume I will plug any hose that disappears beyond the bulkhead.
I am hoping to fix numerous oil leaks and generally clean up the engine bay would prefer to not have to deal with the compressor each time I need to re-do something.
The air conditioning is currently non functional.
Regards
Coxy
#2
No reason at all not to remove the compressor (if you mean to reconnect the aircon later, apart from removing the drive belt, insulate the live wire to the compressor and tie it down somewhere suitable nearby and stop here). If a permanent removal (not recommended if you have hot summers) then both the flexible pipes attached to the compressor, the dryer and the condenser rad can go. All that will improve weight distribution, improve airflow to the water rad, and, as you say, access to the engine. The flexible pipe to the bulkhead expansion valve can be undone at the bulkhead, WITH CARE. Counter torque the the expansion valve when you undo the nut, or you will tear the copper pipes in the dash.
Greg
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 01-07-2015 at 11:52 AM.
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CoxynotKirsty (01-07-2015)
#3
Good news. The question would sound a bit lame in most circumstances but it looks like the Jag engine needs a bit of a holistic approach When it comes to working on them and it's hard to tell if one system relies on another.
As for the belt, I would first research the replacement cost and then simply cut the thing off. Getting the engine bay serviceable is the priority at the moment.
As for the belt, I would first research the replacement cost and then simply cut the thing off. Getting the engine bay serviceable is the priority at the moment.
#4
#5
As Greg has said.
Plug the connections at the bulfhead, and PLEASE take teh CARE Greg has mentioned when undoing them.
Since you are in OZ, the legislation on reactivated the system requires the system to fully flushed, new drier, TX valve, new hoses of 134A spec, and so on. Not a DIY activity.
Nothing holy about the V12, SIMPLE engine. Most grief is the idiot/s there before you.
Cut the belt, Fair Dinkum, $20, for a 13A1500 replacement.
Take up drinking, it really does help.
Send me a PM, as I have many, many "Word" papers on doing what you are doing, plus numerous upgrades, and if I dont have one, I will write it for you. I have spent way too many years with these V12 beasts, and I reckon I have had just about anything bolted on them off of them at some stage.
Plug the connections at the bulfhead, and PLEASE take teh CARE Greg has mentioned when undoing them.
Since you are in OZ, the legislation on reactivated the system requires the system to fully flushed, new drier, TX valve, new hoses of 134A spec, and so on. Not a DIY activity.
Nothing holy about the V12, SIMPLE engine. Most grief is the idiot/s there before you.
Cut the belt, Fair Dinkum, $20, for a 13A1500 replacement.
Take up drinking, it really does help.
Send me a PM, as I have many, many "Word" papers on doing what you are doing, plus numerous upgrades, and if I dont have one, I will write it for you. I have spent way too many years with these V12 beasts, and I reckon I have had just about anything bolted on them off of them at some stage.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (01-08-2015)
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