Xjs le mans
Hi everyone completely new to this forum and Jags tbh.
I’ve got the opportunity to buy an Xjs Le Mans in pretty good condition.
anything to look for particularly.
looking for an old classic to tinker with and this has come up.
many thanks
Darren.
I’ve got the opportunity to buy an Xjs Le Mans in pretty good condition.
anything to look for particularly.
looking for an old classic to tinker with and this has come up.
many thanks
Darren.
Look out for rust just like any classic car. Get the VIN number and run a decoder on it or post it here and more learned members will be along. Make sure that the VIN reflects what is claimed.
Take some time in the sticky thread area, tons of 'experience' based stuff there from members here, since you have the car already it is a bit late if you find something bad and trust me that will not be in a place you can see easily so read all that follows and you will have some good places to look. I don't want to play the doom card but there are 5 major areas to look at with a pre facelift or 6 with a facelift, don't judge the car on looks, be prepared to walk away unless you're really prepared for what comes next ...
This site offers a good breakdown of all the places corrosion will hurt you -> Rust Information
This does not cover the later facelift models propensity to rot out the scuttle (panel below the windscreen), the rear buttresses behind and to the side of the rear window need looking at too - but from the inside, condensation in here from poor drains rots them out from the inside.
I would add a cautionary tale about invisible front subframe corrosion in the spring pans and behind them - very very hard to see. This is what I found my corrosion battle and what took my car off the road and started a very expensive journey ...
This document should be in all XJS owners collection The reference all XJS owners need
Just read some of the above and make some notes, a list that you can follow when you view, and follow it, don't let emotion get in the way, be methodical, I would say take an XJS expert with you if there's one nearby willing.
If it is a V12 don't listen to internet BS about the V12, it is only bad if the maintenance is bad, properly maintained it is bullet proof but it won't tolerate incompetent maintenance or neglect - if you cannot DIY this be sure that you can find a 'shop' that knows the first thing about these cars and trust me it won't be a main dealer.
Maintenance needs to be forward thinking and not reactive, 10000 miles between oil changes is something to forget about, don't even think of running straight water in the cooling systems, adding the skills to do it yourself can be rewardning and very cost effective and you will probably do a better job than any shop.
If you join the fold the cars are really rewarding but don't expect it to be a beer money relationship.
This site offers a good breakdown of all the places corrosion will hurt you -> Rust Information
This does not cover the later facelift models propensity to rot out the scuttle (panel below the windscreen), the rear buttresses behind and to the side of the rear window need looking at too - but from the inside, condensation in here from poor drains rots them out from the inside.
I would add a cautionary tale about invisible front subframe corrosion in the spring pans and behind them - very very hard to see. This is what I found my corrosion battle and what took my car off the road and started a very expensive journey ...
This document should be in all XJS owners collection The reference all XJS owners need
Just read some of the above and make some notes, a list that you can follow when you view, and follow it, don't let emotion get in the way, be methodical, I would say take an XJS expert with you if there's one nearby willing.
If it is a V12 don't listen to internet BS about the V12, it is only bad if the maintenance is bad, properly maintained it is bullet proof but it won't tolerate incompetent maintenance or neglect - if you cannot DIY this be sure that you can find a 'shop' that knows the first thing about these cars and trust me it won't be a main dealer.
Maintenance needs to be forward thinking and not reactive, 10000 miles between oil changes is something to forget about, don't even think of running straight water in the cooling systems, adding the skills to do it yourself can be rewardning and very cost effective and you will probably do a better job than any shop.
If you join the fold the cars are really rewarding but don't expect it to be a beer money relationship.
Darren
Doing the maintenance yourself is really a must, no matter if you have no experience, willingness is what is needed and you need to enjoy working on cars; everyone on here will help you. Also you absolutely MUST have a covered space (garage, barn, shed or whatever) to be able to work on the car in.
Parts are not that expensive, loads of good S/H parts, but if you get the car, be prepared to work through a number of systems to ensure htey are in good order: brakes, suspension, under bonnet wiring if the insulation is brittle, fuel system, renewing parts like rubber components, fuel pipes, as you go. This is the onloy way to achieve a reliable car.
Once the cars are right, they are sublime.
Doing the maintenance yourself is really a must, no matter if you have no experience, willingness is what is needed and you need to enjoy working on cars; everyone on here will help you. Also you absolutely MUST have a covered space (garage, barn, shed or whatever) to be able to work on the car in.
Parts are not that expensive, loads of good S/H parts, but if you get the car, be prepared to work through a number of systems to ensure htey are in good order: brakes, suspension, under bonnet wiring if the insulation is brittle, fuel system, renewing parts like rubber components, fuel pipes, as you go. This is the onloy way to achieve a reliable car.
Once the cars are right, they are sublime.
I'll add to Grant's Excellent advice; in about 5 minutes talking with a "Repair Technician", you'll learn that YOU know more about YOUR car than Any mechanic on the planet (unless that person also works on their own Jag).
Because it will be YOUR car, and it will only be another job to the other person..
Then, you'll have the Enormous satisfaction of having done it Yourself.
(';')
Because it will be YOUR car, and it will only be another job to the other person..
Then, you'll have the Enormous satisfaction of having done it Yourself.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; Jun 27, 2025 at 11:01 AM.
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Darren
There are 3 very different XJ-S's called "Le Mans'.
One is the first XJR-S where the first 100 cars were named Le Mans Celebration
The next is a series of 280 standard engined cars built in 1990/91 and called Le Mans special.edition.
And the third is the mighty XJS Lister Le Mans.
Which car is it? Do you have a photo?
Paul
There are 3 very different XJ-S's called "Le Mans'.
One is the first XJR-S where the first 100 cars were named Le Mans Celebration
The next is a series of 280 standard engined cars built in 1990/91 and called Le Mans special.edition.
And the third is the mighty XJS Lister Le Mans.
Which car is it? Do you have a photo?
Paul
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