Saw a nice drip of coolant confirmed with low level in the res on my 2015 with 19,500miles. Pulled the skid plates off and got the best pics I could. First pic is directly under the water pump...getting warmer......


Second pic is what I believe to be the weep hole circled (which has new orange coolant coming out of it).


I ordered this pump on the recommendation of Jahummer in another post.

Im also going to order the black rubber/plastic tube that goes behind the water pump. Anything else I need to pick up at the dealership? 8 intake gaskets? Any special tools? Lastly, can I hand prime the pump to make sure it doesnt burn its self up int he first few minutes of life?

Thats it.

 

Intake gaskets? I didn't take my intake off when I did my pump. You can't hand prime an automotive water pump and they're not like a Jabsco pump where they need fluid to keep from burning up. But you can use a vacuum filler so you don't get any trapped air pockets in the cooling system. In fact, I'd highly advise against filling the system without a vacuum filler.

 

No intake removal.....interesting. How did you get it out? I was assuming either the intake or fan/shroud would have to come off to get the pump in and out. I did get a Vacuum filler and it will arrive with the new pump.

 

I'm assuming when you say intake, you mean intake manifold, and not just the intake tubing between the MAFs and the TB. Yes, you'll have to take the tube out, no you won't take the manifold off. As I have the XKR, pulling the blower/intake manifold is a two person operation, and I did my water pump in an evening by myself.

You really should download a copy of the FSM as it will answer your questions, and there are some critical torque specs in there, among other things.

 

Thank you for the info as it saved me $$ and time as I didnt need the intake off or buy gaskets. I have the manual, but only found the part on how to remove the pump....not get to it. But yea, I took off the intake tubing, then belt, then belt tensioner and the large and small hose. I found it was easier to take the large and small hoses off not at the pump, but their other ends. Once I got it off, I realized the small hose is a press to fitt 'shark bite' style of clamp, but didnt want to chance it since the other end was easily accessible.

So into the pile it goes...this thing was toast at 7 years and 19k miles. While im waiting for Mr. Amazon to show up tomorrow, Ill detail parts that are exposed to keep me occupied.

 

Yes, our water pumps are a source of many failures and replacement seems inevitable. However, our cooling systems in general are vulnerable to leaks, due to the many plastic pieces that are constantly undergoing the expansion of the heat from the engine as well as time. The only way to be "relatively assured" you have a leak free cooling system (without replacing every single hose) is to replace the front and rear outlet pipes (requires removal of intake manifold) as well as the water pump. Those outlet pipes are a cause for numerous failures, some of which can be catastrophic to the engines as they are fused together on the 5.0 engines. Good luck with your repairs.

 

Thanks Boca. I just replaced the wifes rear outlet pipe two seeks ago that failed at the seam. If I use hers as a gauge, I have about 2 years at the longest. But I like to tinker, so Ill wait for the first one to give up the ghost, then replace all the plastic at once like I did on my old Range Rover. Tonights fun is to make a run to the auto parts store and get stuff to clean surface rust on the sub-frame and general cleaning while everything is off. Its actually not that dirty, but I like to keep things as close to as new so that when something does pop up, I can spot it and trace it back to the source.

 

This guy does a pretty good tutorial on the water pump replacement. He does a Land Rover, but my experience was similar (2010 X150 N/A). Planning on P/M'ing my pump Spring-time; looks fairly straight foward once air intake and serp belt(s) removed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eAQtMyV16AY&t=402s

 

Same V6 engine as my F-Type, very useful thank you!
Different intake set up and the hood/bonnet would get in the way something terrible and probably needs to come off though.
That said it's all a bit beyond my decrepit eyes and hands these days so I will leave it to my mechanic when the time comes.

 

Make certain you seat the new seals correctly. It's not uncommon even for JLR techs to not do so and eventually leaks begin. Also make certain the cooler tube and O-ring are properly seated. Very important, do not run the new pump with air in the circuit, it takes only seconds to burn it out. Make certain your vacuum gets ALL the air out, your rubber hoses should be completely flattened.

 

Thanks. I remember reading in one of the older threads how new pumps die prematurely due to poor fitting, improper seal seating and running dry. I have been test fitting the old one a few times to get the feel for when it seats on the oil tube gasket. When I do get it in, Ill put the bolts in a rotation pattern like installing a wheel, but a few turns at a time to get it flat as possible. The cooler tube is a bit of a mystery as it appears it can be rotated? I took a pic of the oil tube before removal and it looks like it lines up with the block casting with the fin 'up'. so thats how it will go back in.

 

Done, tested, no leaks. Not a bad job if you have all the right tools. First time using a vacuum to siphon out the coolant, left it under vacuum for about 10 minutes to make sure there were no leaks. Followed the repair manual for replacing the coolant....what a cool thing. Im sure the neighbors appreciated me idling the car at 2,000 RPM for 8 minutes at midnight. Drov eit for about 40 minutes today and no smell of coolant, period.

Lessons learned. Put the bonnet in service height from the start. Wear a long sleeve shirt....hose clamps like to draw blood. A little bit of silicone spray on the lip of the front under tray makes installation much easier. I need to pick up a hose removal hook.