When changing around things for sound, I took off the door cards of the driver and passenger side. Instead of the snaps coming out, the plastic broke on the card. This happened on several of the tabs on both sides. I've been in a TON of doors on many different brands of car and never had this happen before. I don't know if the plastic was too thin or just brittle because of age.

How would one go about rehabbing the door to so that it is tight? Would putty work to put the snaps in at the locations where they broke? I'm getting a rattle on both sides, but also may be changing out the stock midwoofers for some aftermarkets. I've already changed the tweeters out. Would velcro possibly work for noncritical parts of the door?

Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

 

Not on a door, but the boot deck liner. I used scrap pieces and parts and a bunch of JB Weld and, well, the boot liner is still there ten years later...

 

Plastic welding. It's easy and cheap and holds well plus looks aren't a factor.

 

MCGYVER IT!!!

PISSES MY WIFE OFF WHEN i FIX THINGS WITH A PAPERCLIP!

 

McGuyver is the way.

 

So, I will get some plastic welding. Is there a way to build up the broken part of the plastic that broke off that the snaps sit in? I was kind of wondering if some kind of putty might work?

 

A lot of people use large ZIP ties as plastic welding material. If you do it right, it works pretty well.

 

That sounds genius! Thanks!

 

I have a jaguar XKR 2008:

I did the same including my door card holder on top black holder popping out. Also did whole audio system replacement. Was 2-3 months longer than it needed to be due to plastic and door parts breaking so read below to avoid my mistakes.

Here's how to fix 100%

You need to get some JB weld plastic bonder(they make tan color too!), sheets of thin steel mesh, and some ABS plastic sheets. Cut the abs plastic in the shape that was broken off or some sort of holder and use the steel mesh with the Jb Weld plastic bonder then wait 24-48 hours for it to hold.

DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT do this without covering the front of the door with plastic sheeting with tape. JB weld is sticky but standard glue remover will not work and it create will permanent bond over the leather in front. You will need to paint our any spots the jbweld touches on the front: DO NOT MAKE my mistake.

ALSO BEWARE GLUE remover spray. Most will turn ANY plastic brittle and cause it to be easily breakable like glass. I caused alot of breakage due that.

Also, most plastic generic retainer clip plugs don't fit/slide out too easy, but these do:

Perfect fit for jaguar Retainer clips:
JB weld:
Steel mesh:
Retainer clip tool for removal:
ABS Plastic Sheet:
Also when removing the door, lift one edge and use a plastic or metal retainer clip tool to pry the clip off each individually one by one AND THEN pull the door. All the idiot guides suggest pulling off the door together in one big shove by hands. That advice would be fine for newer cars but our plastic is old and brittle hence the breakage your experiencing pulling the door

Also double check the top black part or the door handle holder and see if it's wobbly or not flush, it will likely need some glue after aging and being pulled. The Side tan triangle shaped one too is glued and might break. Check every screw to make sure they are nice and tight for the steel colored middle panel. Also put in sound deadening panels while your in there.

Lastly, if your replacing the speaker and tweeter. This advice is based on the XKR 150 but some of it might apply to the XK100 series too. YMMV.

PUT the new tweeter into the A-PILLAR(buy a hole tool and cut, it's easier than you think), trust me. Alternatively, if your using a passive crossover, just put the crossover in the door and re-use the same tweeter spot. You can re-use the amplifier cable from the original speakers but there is no tweeter cable to amp hence why the A-Pillar route is best IMO.

It's almost impossible to run a seperate, new speaker cable to the doors(Unless you want to drill lots of holes in the dark through the door and inner firewall after removing half the front dash board). Jaguar used some weird *** cable tunnel for the door cables unlike most cars where it drops. That cable tunnel sits up very high so drilling will be awkward unless you take apart the entire front dashboard just to drill into the tunnel wall.

I THINK you could just drill through the door side into cabin and make a new rubber door connection to bypass removing the old amp and then pull the amp fuse. YMMV. No way to see if you're hitting a giant cable but I wish I went this route. You can able skip removing the amp via fuse removal then run two cables(tweeter and speaker) to door allowing you to re-use tweeter holder). Only do this AMP fuse strategy if your replacing the entire infotainment center as well with after market android becuase the MOST connector needs a loopback if you keep the OEM system. With Android replacement, the MOST ring network isn't used at all.

XKR150 specific below:
===============
Removing the original amplifier and even just it's plugs SUCKS. The instructions make it seem like it's easy but it's a pain in the ***. The metal shield thatblocks the amp have these invisible screws on the button of the floor holders, you need to lift by feel. Use the pry tool to help pull the carpet plugs out and get some long extensions for your drill or wrench. Alternatively, it would be much easier to remove the seats entirely then pull up the carpet.
===============


When removing the side panels to run cable. Be careful otherwise the retainer clip plastic might break.

Use grease on the plastic retainer clips(vaseline is fine) before shoving back in the door. Will make it slide in easier. Don't be too aggressive shoving it in, otherwise you risk breaking retainer clip posts again. Do one side at a time and slowly pushing in.


If I had to do this again. I recommend getting 3 way component speaker with separate woofer, mids, tweeter. Drill the holes for the mids and tweeter into the a-pillar and place them there. For DSPs, the Ezy-DSP 68+ is a good deal but splurge an extra $100 and get the older brother. Don't get the recoil r46 or anything under $300.

If your replacing the Android head unit. I have a new tesla style android vertical head unit for sale. I ended up making my own custom setup and mount so it available discounted. I have ALOT of advice for that too if you'd like.

@billqs

 

Thanks, Ukon 16! Can you give more details on how you glued the ABS piece and mesh onto what was left of the snap holders?

 

You can also use a plastic welder which would be much faster:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115807718317

if I has to do this all over, would do plastic welding instead of glue.

The mesh is optional and just gives additional support to the glue. I would look up on youtube videos.

You need the abs sheet though. At first I tried using just glue and steel mesh, didn't hold well enough the retainer clips which take a lot of pressure when popping in.

I used steel mesh and glue by itself for the door card panel interior parts to reinforce connect to the door and ensure they don't flex/move/come loose over time due to constantly closing the door. They were already loose a bit when I bought the car cuz the jaguar factory glue is old and sucks.

You just cut the abs plastic sheet using some thick scissors or a saw or knife in the shape of the holder top or missing piece

If you tore off the entire holder, just use jbweld to attach it again. Worked for me.

If you can, try to find whatever plastic piece tore off then attach that! You can just use jbweld glue or welding tool by it'self without the mesh or abs sheet but steel mesh wouldn't hurt and it's cheap.

Post photos and I can give some mroe advice.

 

I'll also add, if your going to take my advice on running new wires then add a third wire to door for a future 360 camera placement under the side mirrors. Android dash units can support 360 camera which is REALLY cool. I suggest adding the camera during the door job right now.

 

I'm leaning toward plastic welding. I've had some dodgy experience with glues, though JB Weld is the real deal.