Has anyone replaced their front sway bar bushes? They are the source of a thump, so while I'm repairing my front suspension accident damage, it seems a good time to do these as well. Trouble is, the rt side looks dang near impossible to get at.

 

Yes, it's tricky, best to lower the front subframe once it's disconnected from the front suspension. Might consider upgrading to poly bushes or even upgrading the sway bar too, if desired.

 

Fun....😑

 

Can you do it from the top? IIRC, that was an approach suggested by @Brutal but may have been in the X350 forum and I don't know if that translates to the XK

Edit: Check that. I think I'm combining two threads in my head. Aaron aka TexasTraveler did a great write up on control arms and references the sway bar bushes. Said he did it from below. This is where getting to it from atop came in the X350 forum and required removing some hoses. Still don't know if it translates to the XK though:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post2579769

 

Has anyone used the PowerFlex bushings?

 

XK is easier on a lift from underneath. There is little room up top w/o being a contortionist.

 

Dropping the subframe a couple inches in the front looks to be the solution. In the x100 it was doable from the top.

 

Yes, I've them all around. Great product. Might have extras.

 

@jahummer Need to ask! Did you replace the sway with a "stronger" substitution? Custom fabricated?

If so, did you notice the difference in the corners? I quite like the handling as it is... but imagine a tighter front end! Or... is the light sway bar the answer to the nimble dynamics?
All of you may laugh but I speak truthfully... the Riley has a wood frame. And that contributes favourably on the most squirrelly of roads as she seems to "bend and stretch" around the corners.

 

Did I see that right? Is @Brutal back?? Really???

 

the x100 has a lot more room in front but remember that if you slacken the subframes it will alter the alignment even if you mark it. you'll get it back in a relative spot, but it always affects alignment with camber which changes toe, which wears tires.

 

lol, no I early retired from Auto repair and sit at home now and trade derivatives in the stock market. I do have a ton of parts to get rid of out of the garage though.

 

You likely know this, a sway bar’s essentially a spring. The stock one’s hollow so I upgraded it with a larger diameter solid. Did the rear as well. This translates to faster response in the corners.

Here’s a handy article on the subject.

https://www.thedrive.com/guides-and-...suspension-mod

 

Seriously? The OEM is hollow??? I've never seen a hollow sway bar. I did see hollow cams in GM cars, of which a Grand Am I bought to sell had a broken one (new one broke also, after four miles).
I don't mean to sound ignorant, but evidently I am.

 

I once installed a 1-1/2" solid front sway bar on my c1500 'sport truck'...I felt like I had been in the gym pressing weights for several days after. It was so heavy I think the poly bushings even distorted just sitting in the brackets due to the weight.
Installed some upgraded ones on MBs years ago, several very expensive ones were imported and hollow they really worked well.
wj

 

I get that, so how is the subframe installed originally to get it in the correct position? I can't imagine an alignment shop tweaking its position.

 

I seem to recall that there are two sizes (internal diameter) for the X150 swaybar bushings.

Anyone know anything about this? And are the power-flex swaybar bushings better than aftermarket or Jag stock?

They appear to be rubber rather than the ply plastic of other PF bushings.

 

Ok, so i need these for the subframe alignment. Not too terrible, if i can find them.

Help appreciated!

 

They are 'aftermarket'. I believe even the black ones are poly. They will reduce the initial roll when going through turns, more so than oem rubber.
WJ