Thanks DannyJ,

That's the only place I could find them.

Coming from China, keeping my fingers crossed and an eye on my CC Account.

 

The Amazon link above seems old. Does anyone know where I can get one of those fuses? I looked on google but I'm not sure which one is the right one. Especially since I don't have the module out yet.

EDIT:

Wait i think this is an equivalent:

 

Great advice above.

Tested the fuse and no continuity so it must be blown.

I don't have a 'de-soldering' tool so i had to make due with my $10 solder from Walmart. I snipped the fuse leads and found out that if you pry up on the chip, you can get enough room for some pliers and unscrew the screw in there. Then you can remove the whole chip without having to de-solder the other 3 prongs on the other end. Heat up the solder on the 2 leads and slip out the left over wire.

New fuse is coming in today so hopefully I will have some dam heat in the car by tonight!!

 

Ok got the new fuse in and finally got some air flowing again. Sloppy reinstall but it works.

 

Hello,

Blower motor stopped.
Thanks to this forum I quickly found out it was the thermal fuse. No continuity.
(NB: On some newer X150 it is NOT “three soldered pins at one end and two soldered pins at the other end” though. It is four and one. One of the thermal fuse pins is on the same side as the “three”).

Replaced by a piece of wire just to test.
Blower worked perfectly well again.
(I can see that there has been some water in the blower (although I have the modified duckbill VIN 5.0 !) so will get a new blower motor, without hurry)).

Now some week later I “upgraded" the wire with a thermal fuse as described (I didn’t like the idea of wire instead of fuse). All went fine (thanks again to this forum).

.....but now the blower RUNS FULL SPEED CONTINUOUSLY.

I noted the statement “MOSFET can go short circuit. This causes the blower fan to always run full blast unless the climate control is turned OFF” in this thread.
Interesting coincidence that my MOSFET goes bad just as I replace a “wire solution” with a thermal fuse.
And there IS resistance between the two large connectors. Approximately the same resistance as between the right hand small and right hand large (device with therm.fuse up)

=> Any OTHER CAUSE for the blower to always run full speed?
Or can I be reasonably sure that by getting a new module the problem is then solved?

Thanks

 

Guys, thanks for mapping this procedure out. After the footwell flood, I had dried the system out. A month later the blower squealed and died. Replaced the Blower for 150USD and only got a few recs. Took a week but I just replaced the control module for $40. Hot & humid on Long Island but I'm sitting in the XKR cooling off 👍😎! (PS, daily driver with 119 k miles). Cheers and good luck!

 

Just wanted to say a quick thank you to @LosRubios and @tarokyama for this thread. In and out in 15 minutes with a 2 day wait for the part in between thanks to you guys. I didn't bother with the re-solder as the LR replacement was only $20 shipped. The guide made quick work of it. Much appreciated.

 

In a similar situation, could you link me the resistor you bought? I put a new blower motor and new resistor in it and no luck, I am going to return the resistor but not the blower motor. Thanks.

 

Hi.
Just check the NUMBER on your resistor (mine was 077800-0901) and you will find those on a used part website. These parts are applied for a number of cars.
I got mine in UK for 15 GBP. It originally came form a Land Rover.
With this and a new blower, everything has worked perfectly fine ever since I changed it 2 years ago.

Kind Regards

 

Hi , I’m new to this forum I would like to ask a question on the fan as mine is always on low when I turn on the ignition, so always blowing .
my Question is , is the fan supposed to turn completely off when you turn the dial anti clockwise ?
The fan speed increase’s ok when turning in the clockwise direction .
could it be a dodgy resistor ?

 

Mine does not turn off completely.

 

I have not yet checked, but I think mine always runs if I have the systen ON.
If you want no air flow ar all, simply set the system to OFF.
A transistor problem (easy to fix) normally means that it runs full (or not at all).
I hope this helps.

 

Ok , thanks for your reply appreciate it .

 

Fantastic post!

This is probably the clearest and best written post for a solution that I have ever come across!

Than you so much!

Fixed my problem!

Just one added point for those not too experienced with electronics...
MOSFETs are very sensitive to static and heat due to the very thin capacitance layer at the gate. Good idea to temporarily short all three leads together with a piece of wire wrapped around the leads before attempting to desolder it from the board. Also USE A HEAT SHUNT ! ...same reason... even a metal hair pin clamped on each connector.

If you are not careful the problem is that you may have enough damage to the MOSFET to not allow it to progressively pass adjustable voltages through, but it may still function as a switch! This will raise some confusion. If you have done this the fan will be either off or on full blast regardless of fan position.
At that point a MOSFET replacement would be needed, or as someone pointed out the JEEP equivalent resistor (only about $14 on Amazon) works fine at a 1/15 of the price of the Jag unit.

In the meantime a $1.40 thermal resistor worked for me... I could only get a 10A one but that is fine, it shuts off on temperature not on current.
(spec of the original is 114C 2A)

Cheers!

Phil

 

Here is a picture and labeling of the actual Thermal Fuse within the blower resistor module for anyone wanting to look into ordering one (or typically a set of 5 to 10+) before tearing into the module themselves. I've found the exact unit available from China directly - and Amazon currently has one with the same spec but 1ēC "hotter" shutoff - 115ēC instead of 114. That will arrive one day before my new blower and resistor module so I'll give it a shot.

The second image is the blower motor cover off with obvious corrosion from water sitting in the motor. Poor placement.. I would venture to say this is a result of CAD engineering - it's easy to locate a unit on a flat plane on a computer, but there is very little reason to do it in real life, other than maybe bearing life. But if the bearing is going to fill with water, you've negated your efforts.

What a big change working on this system has been compared to my XJS blowers .. these parts are shared with Hondas, Chevys, Land Rovers, you name it. Much more plentiful and affordable parts.

The fuse tested open (toast) so I figured I wanted to see it.

There is a small cover on the side of the blower motor- you can see the "waterline" leading to the seizing of this unit.

I sprayed some lubricant into the bottom and it turns now, but doesn't "spin" without my input.. I will compare this later to the new unit when it arrives.