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Thanks!
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I am planning to both do the half-way up top thing as @Bill400 suggested, just to look around.
Then to crawl my big *** into the boot with the top up and remove the battery area cover, remove the positive and measure voltage at the battery, while disconnected, as also suggested and to familiarize myself with what’s back there.
So, couple quick newbie questions.
1) Anything I need to worry about in doing the top half up thing? Besides supporting the top and tonneau cover? Assuming I’ll have the wife push the button, ask her to stop half way, and I’ll put supports in place.
2) How long-ish do I have after disconnecting the battery before I have to do anything like the reset procedure?
One of the things I appreciate about the XK convertible is the relatively easy access to the battery and electronics stack.
I should have been a bit more detailed explaining "hood" (convertible top) up access, so here goes:
I always start the engine to allow the alternator to maintain the battery when operating the "hood".
In the driver seat, engine running, operate the "hood" to the point that the tonneau is fully open and the rear of the "hood" is raised.
Exit the seat with the engine running (to maintain hydraulic pressure) and place one support at each, hood and tonneau. (Support on the side away from your work.)
Returning to the seat, turn off the ignition.
Reaching into the open tonneau area, lift the cargo separator, large end only and allow it to be pulled toward the rear of the vehicle.
The four black hand fasteners are now accessible and are easily removed. The black trim cover may now be removed to access the battery and electronics stack.
It may be necessary to open the trunk to lift the spare tire cover slightly if it is pinching the trim cover.
If work on the electronics stack does not require disconnecting the battery, the above disassembly may be reversed, including reseating the cargo separator, trunk closed, and engine restarted.
Remove the hood and tonneau supports.
Generally, if the battery is not disconnected, the hood may be opened or closed as usual from the driver's seat.
In the event that the top control module becomes confused (as when the battery is disconnected or replaced) the top must be returned to the "reset position": stored under the tonneau.
Hood/top manual operation to reset requires that the 4mm Z-wrench (stored behind the rear seat center bolster) be used to open the hydraulic valve on the side of the hydraulic pump.
Half-way between open, CCW and closed, CW is adequate.
With the hydraulic valve opened and the tonneau open, lift both the front and rear ends of the hood and rotate it to the stored position.
Securely close the tonneau. Close the hydraulic valve and close the trunk.
From the reset position, normal hood operation should be restored. Start the engine and test.
Manual hood operation from the mid-point is easily accomplished by one person.
However, two-person manual operation is recommended to balance the frame under most other conditions.
Ok. Experiment complete.
And believe it or not, I’m not getting a battery.
What I’ve discovered.
I tend to poke around a lot.
I’ll go out to the garage 2-3x a day getting in and out, doing accessory mode, open the trunk and leave it open. That sort of thing. All the time. Without starting it.
When I left for the 5hr round trip to take my daughter back to college (Go Tar Heels!) my piddling around drained the battery down to around 12.4x.
Did not put it on the Ctek. Figured I’d see what happens.
Drove there. Puttered around town for an hour. Grabbed some grub. (I highly recommend Sup Dogs if you are near UNC)
Headed home. About 3hrs.
Got home at 8pm.
She has sat since.
Just checked at 7pm almost 24hrs of sitting after the drive. Didn’t touch it or drive it.
12.57v
I think I’m good for a bit longer.
Last edited by Circumnavigator; Oct 20, 2025 at 06:38 PM.
It seems that days of wearing the battery down with no charging over several days playing around can cause the issue.
But when she gets a full charge (OBD when driving 13v+) she holds it.
Well, for 24hrs so far.
I’m taking the pilot to work tomorrow as well.
Will measure battery voltage after 48hrs with no drain from me, tomorrow.
It seems that days of wearing the battery down with no charging over several days playing around can cause the issue.
But when she gets a full charge (OBD when driving 13v+) she holds it.
Well, for 24hrs so far.
I’m taking the pilot to work tomorrow as well.
Will measure battery voltage after 48hrs with no drain from me, tomorrow.
A few words of experience for your consideration:
This car is built on an efficiencies methodology. Therefore
1 The alternator of your daddy’s chevy does not apply here.The generator acts as a maintainer. The battery should always be fully charged before starting off.
2 The battery IS an integral part of the electrical system. Thus if the battery is of inadequate charge, something else is not receiving the power it needs… even when the car is running.
Your comment about leaving the boot open should not be of any consequence. The car electrical system will entirely shutdown within a 20 min period… However, you can wake it up again if you go within proximity of the car with the fob in your pocket or by opening the door… thusI leave the windows down.
Truly, I leave the car open in the garage. It may sit for a 3 month period. Not on a maintainer. There is no issue on startup.
A few words of experience for your consideration:
This car is built on an efficiencies methodology. Therefore
1 The alternator of your daddy’s chevy does not apply here.The generator acts as a maintainer. The battery should always be fully charged before starting off.
2 The battery IS an integral part of the electrical system. Thus if the battery is of inadequate charge, something else is not receiving the power it needs… even when the car is running.
Your comment about leaving the boot open should not be of any consequence. The car electrical system will entirely shutdown within a 20 min period… However, you can wake it up again if you go within proximity of the car with the fob in your pocket or by opening the door… thusI leave the windows down.
Truly, I leave the car open in the garage. It may sit for a 3 month period. Not on a maintainer. There is no issue on startup.
Ok. Experiment complete.
And believe it or not, I’m not getting a battery.
What I’ve discovered.
I tend to poke around a lot.
I’ll go out to the garage 2-3x a day getting in and out, doing accessory mode, open the trunk and leave it open. That sort of thing. All the time. Without starting it.
When I left for the 5hr round trip to take my daughter back to college (Go Tar Heels!) my piddling around drained the battery down to around 12.4x.
Did not put it on the Ctek. Figured I’d see what happens.
Drove there. Puttered around town for an hour. Grabbed some grub. (I highly recommend Sup Dogs if you are near UNC)
Headed home. About 3hrs.
Got home at 8pm.
She has sat since.
Just checked at 7pm almost 24hrs of sitting after the drive. Didn’t touch it or drive it.
12.57v
I think I’m good for a bit longer.
Final final update:
24hrs - 12.57
48hrs - 12.49
72hrs - 12.44
Definitely either a drain in the system when unlocked (or just a drain in general) or the battery is just not holding well.
Or both.
Just put it back on the Ctek.
Ill look at replacing with the AGM in a month or so.
Went out for a few.
Had a great time.
Started the car and had the large Jaguar logo.
Bit chilly so went to crank the heat.
Buttons work, but screen stayed the large Jaguar logo the whole way home.
Pressed Home, Power, nothing reacted.
My plan was to see what it did in the morning, but figured I’d post here.
Thoughts?
Back when I had my 2007 jag,once the infotainment screen gets stuck,it stays that way forever I guess maybe until you get the dealership to fix it
Last edited by Barry Leftwich; Oct 23, 2025 at 03:07 AM.
Have you replaced the battery yet? That was the issue identified 60 posts ago. Any testing you do for any reason will be invalidated if you start with a defective battery. Quiescent drain testing is most effective with a new battery as well. Pull the workshop manual and follow the guide to test for a quiescent drain.
Not sure what @HealeyJag suggestion you're referencing, but if was the double lock scenario, as @Stuart S indicated, double lock is not a thing in the US and even if you are chasing that, his thread is appropriate to continue your experiments on to prevent you from moving off topic and help future users in the search for solutions to their problems. I wish you the best of luck in any event. Cheers.
Have you replaced the battery yet? That was the issue identified 60 posts ago. Any testing you do for any reason will be invalidated if you start with a defective battery. Quiescent drain testing is most effective with a new battery as well. Pull the workshop manual and follow the guide to test for a quiescent drain.
Not sure what @HealeyJag suggestion you're referencing, but if was the double lock scenario, as @Stuart S indicated, double lock is not a thing in the US and even if you are chasing that, his thread is appropriate to continue your experiments on to prevent you from moving off topic and help future users in the search for solutions to their problems. I wish you the best of luck in any event. Cheers.
I should clarify.
I am having zero issues and doing zero troubleshooting.
Harken back to when you were young and would disassemble things just to figure out how it works.
I’m just experimenting.
I will replace the battery, and have captured all the feedback you wonderful folks have provided. But as it doesn’t sit more than 2-3 days and it works, I’m gonna experiment.
Healey had asked in another thread about a difference between leaving the car locked/unlocked and the alarm being on.
While the ‘by design’ docs are a great starting point, for what to expect from a new, functioning as designed vehicle, I’m playing with a 17y old car.
So, bad battery or good battery, and it is probably aged out, I want to see what happens. None of it will brick the car so having fun and learning.
I did my tests with the car unlocked and the key frequently sitting within 3 meters. (On the car)
Now, based on Healey’s question below, I’m doing the same test after a full (12.97v) call charge, with the car locked. On a mediocre 2y old battery.
Yes...all this talk about locking,double locking, not locking..
Even AI says to DOUBLE LOCK.
Is there really a difference!
People want to know.
and you're the guy to do the job right!!
Go big C!!
in the US the 'double lock' does not double lock...but..pressing the lock button twice does turn off the convenience mode and it sets the alarm system (if so configured).
Saying 'double lock' might be incorrect but saying 'double lock button pushing' is a bit awkward as is;
in the US the 'double lock' does not double lock...but..pressing the lock button twice does turn off the convenience mode and it sets the alarm system (if so configured).
Saying 'double lock' might be incorrect but saying 'double lock button pushing' is a bit awkward as is;