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What is considered normal Battery Drain

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  #1  
Old 01-19-2013, 05:07 PM
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Default What is considered normal Battery Drain

I bought an optimate 6 battery charger/maintainer for maintaining my battery in my 2011 XKR. With the battery connected on the car the maintainer keeps going into charge indicating a small battery drain. With the battery disconnected from the car the maintainer shows a fully charged battery in perfect condition. I tried the maintainer on my 2011 Infiniti G37 with the battery connected to the car and the result is "fully charged" with no battery drain. You should be able to park any car without needing to maintain the battery for at least a month. I had the doors locked and the keys far away from the car. I've read about Jaguar's having an unusually high battery drain relative to other car brands. Since I bought my car I only had to boost it when I picked it up after setting for a month. I did get the low battery warning when I was setting my vehicle preferences with the car not started a couple of times. The optimat 6 battery charger/maintainer is very intelligent and the best of quality. Is my experience normal for this car? What is a reasonable battery drain level?
 

Last edited by DGL; 01-19-2013 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:40 PM
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The factory manual gives a clue how to determine if the draw is too high. See the attached jpg. If you have a good meter similar to a Fluke 88 or better, you can put it inline with the battery and set it on amps and compare your readings with the manual.

Edit: I can't even read the attachments. The manual says 35ma is the draw when everything is shut off/down.

I know on my car, if the car is locked up for over fifteen minutes or so, and your just reading the battery voltage only with a meter, I see 12.22 vdc. IF you then unlock the car the meter drops down just under 12vdc (somethings working pretty hard there all of a sudden).

But actually reading the draw has to be done with a amp meter or a meter like the Fluke set on amps and set up like the second picture I attached i.e. pull the neg lead off the battery.........connect one lead of the meter to that neg lead and the other meter lead to the battery negative post. Meter set on amps as shown in the jpg. Then have the meter and it's lead outside the car and shut the trunk lid and lock the car. After a while the amps should drop to approx 35ma from then on if all is well.

EDIT: I added three more jps that can be read a little better than the first jpg.
 
Attached Thumbnails What is considered normal Battery Drain-fluke-88.jpg   What is considered normal Battery Drain-fluke-88-two.jpg   What is considered normal Battery Drain-step-1.jpg   What is considered normal Battery Drain-step-2.jpg   What is considered normal Battery Drain-step-3.jpg  


Last edited by Hailers; 01-19-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2013, 11:22 PM
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Do you ever get the "battery low" message on your radio screen when the car has just been sitting for a short time like a week or so? Seems like that's kinda short. (new jag owner)
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebeachatnight
Do you ever get the "battery low" message on your radio screen when the car has just been sitting for a short time like a week or so? Seems like that's kinda short. (new jag owner)
I've had the car such a short time and needed to let the car fully charge the battery. Accordingly, the "battery low" message I've seen may be partially attributed to a low battery state and myself messing with the car settings with the doors opened while the engine was not turned on.

I'll continue to monitor the car after fully charging the battery and do the current test, as described above, to see if any problems exist. I expect everything is normal. I like my cars to be top notch at all times. My charger/maintainer shows a small unmeasured drain which may be within the manufacturer limits. I'll test to verify. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:25 PM
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THEBEACHATNIGHT............I can relate to that. I replaced the antenna mast on my XK and when feeding the new mast into the motor it took me the better part of an hr give or take some. I had the "key" ON all that time to make the antenna go up/down when I turned the radio on/off.

Car would not start. Allllll sorts of warnings/symbols were flashing and lit up. Headlights wouldn't work right. Had to put a slow charger on it to straighten things out.

The battery went flat a lot faster than any other car I've owned so each time I exit the car I double click the lock button on the door handle to shut things down as low as Possible. I've since had no problems at all with the battery.
 
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:08 PM
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This is the first car I have had that the battery seems to be better-off if you set the alarm rather than leaving it unlocked even if you have it in a secured private garage. I know I can barely hear some type of cooling fan running for a significant time after you exit the car if you don't lock it. It does shut off eventually after maybe 30 minutes or so. I was told by the Jaguar dealer this was a cooling fan for the navigation screen. This may be what is drawing power if you don't lock the car immediately after exiting. Thoughts?
 
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:45 PM
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I've no idea what that buzz sound is when the "key" is put to off. Could be a fan I suppose.

The manual says the normal draw is 35ma and could be more if the Tracker system is installed. I know not what the Tracker system is other than it might be some type of GPS tracking system to find your stolen car.

When doing the check for how many miliamps is being drawn when the key is put to 'off', they say in the manual to wait close the doors and hatches and lock the car. On cars with TPMS wait fifteen minutes prior to checking the draw figure but if the car does not have TPMS then just wait four minutes before checking the draw.

Just connecting a common volt meter to the aux battery post and hanging it out the rear of the car, then closing the rear hatch, you can look at the voltage on the meter. So if you do that (look at the meter figure) and then with all doors closed, lock the car with your key fob or button in the door handle and watch the meter voltage slowly rise up.

IF you don't actually LOCK the car, the voltage figure will take some time to come up well over 12vdc. But if you lock the car the voltage will come up much faster. That''s how I remember it happening.

I stopped researching this and came to the conclusion that if you just lock the car with the key fob or the button in the door handle, then all will be well given there isn't a corrupt battery involved. I learned about locking the car from this forum. Not an original thought at all for sure.

Anybody have a Garmin Nuvi out there? And do you know if yours will show alternate routes where you get to chose which route to follow????? The Jaguar gives me alternate routes from Ft Worth to Cotati Ca. The Garmin does not. It makes me take the lower route to Ca and not the I40 route unless I first set the trip to say Needles Ca, then it gives me the northern route to Ca.

I'm pleased with my Jaguar nav system in that respect (choice of routes to Ca vs no choices from Garmin).
 
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:57 AM
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The fan you hear is the aspirator fan for the air conditioning. It will turn off 15 minutes after locking the car, or after turning off the ignition and the doors closed.
 

Last edited by dutch07xk; 01-30-2013 at 08:07 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:20 PM
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The factory manual I downloaded does not seem to show the aspirator fan. I looked a couple of times. So then I went to do a Google Search using the words Jaguar aspirator fan and came up with dozens of hits and read a few of the threads which tell what it does in life etc.

So I went and sat in my 2007 XK with the ignition off/engine off. I can hear the fan running. So I sat there and put the key fob to Lock. The fan shut off after approx one minute after the car was put in Lock and the red indicator lite started blinking. I did this a couple of times.

I never did sit there with the car unlocked to see how long it took to shut the fan off. I'm not quite that bored, yet.

So thanks for the reply that said the aspirator fan is the fan that is running (Dutch07XK).

EDIT: Ah, I see. They changed the name of it to Cabin Humidity and Temperature Sensor. I found that part in the factory 2007 XK manual. Must have called it the aspirator motor on earlier cars.

Item #3 in this http://www.gaudinjaguarparts.com/par...agramCallOut=3

about $45 bucks for a new one at Gaudin Jaguar, if you ever need a new one that might be quieter being new and all.
 

Last edited by Hailers; 01-22-2013 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 PM
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I think that the aspirator is what the XK workshop manual refers to as the In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor which is usually a temperature sensor in a small enclosure with a fan to draw air over it.

Edit , looks like you got there before me.
 

Last edited by u102768; 01-22-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:14 PM
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Yep. They call it by two names in the manual. NOT a good thing to do. They need to address that business of calling an item by two different names in the same manual.

I've seen that problem in tech manuals on a quite different vehicle and it burns me up because your led to believe there are two different items when there is but one in reality.

So I was looking at what it took to replace one (that's when I discovered it's called by two different names) and find that it's not all that easy to remove and replace imho, when looking at the instructions in the manual. I don't need a new one so I'll overcome that problem in some far distant time in life. What, me worry?
 
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:32 PM
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Correction: they call it by THREE different names. They do call it Aspirator in the DTC's, so that makes it known by three different names.

In Vehicle Temperature Sensor

Aspirator

Cabin Humidity and Temperature Sensor
 
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:52 AM
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I own a 2010 G37s 10th anniv Ed coupe and a 2013 Jag XKRS.... We are brothers from another mother with the exact same tastes!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Hailers
The factory manual gives a clue how to determine if the draw is too high. See the attached jpg. If you have a good meter similar to a Fluke 88 or better, you can put it inline with the battery and set it on amps and compare your readings with the manual.

Edit: I can't even read the attachments. The manual says 35ma is the draw when everything is shut off/down.

I know on my car, if the car is locked up for over fifteen minutes or so, and your just reading the battery voltage only with a meter, I see 12.22 vdc. IF you then unlock the car the meter drops down just under 12vdc (somethings working pretty hard there all of a sudden).

But actually reading the draw has to be done with a amp meter or a meter like the Fluke set on amps and set up like the second picture I attached i.e. pull the neg lead off the battery.........connect one lead of the meter to that neg lead and the other meter lead to the battery negative post. Meter set on amps as shown in the jpg. Then have the meter and it's lead outside the car and shut the trunk lid and lock the car. After a while the amps should drop to approx 35ma from then on if all is well.

EDIT: I added three more jps that can be read a little better than the first jpg.

Thanks for the diagrams and the info.

After letting my car set for 3 weeks, with no charger connected, it started up with no problem with lots of power and no battery warnings. Everything appears normal. My opitmate battery charger/maintainer is very sensitive and shows a bit of amber in the maintainer state which means there is a bit of a drain, but not enough to worry about. When I used the key FOB to open the doors with the maintainer connected it immediately went to red to show significant battery drain, which would be normal).
 
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Lothar52
I own a 2010 G37s 10th anniv Ed coupe and a 2013 Jag XKRS.... We are brothers from another mother with the exact same tastes!!!!!!!!

Too funny. I'm considering adding a Lamborghini Gallardo Lp-560-4 (not sure spyder or coupe) to replace the G37. Wanna join me brother

After I bought the XKR the G37 seems too much of a girly car. When I bought the G37 a friend asked me why I bought a girly car. Now I know what he was talking about. I really like the G37 convertible. I was going to add a GTM supercharger on it for $7,000 to give it over 500 horse power, but decided to leave it stock. I did add the paddle shifter's and would not own it without them. Must say, I prefer the steering column paddle shifters (on the G37) much more than the paddle shifters on the steering wheel (XKR). With the shifters on the column they never move and you always know where they are.

If the Nissan GTR where redesigned with infinity quality interior, GTR drivetrain, GTR electronics, Jaguar sound system, XKR exterior design, and a retractable hardtop, I would only have 1 car.
 
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DGL
.................................................. ..............
After I bought the XKR the G37 seems too much of a girly car. When I bought the G37 a friend asked me why I bought a girly car. Now I know what he was talking about. I really like the G37 convertible. I was going to add a GTM supercharger on it for $7,000 to give it over 500 horse power, but decided to leave it stock. I did add the paddle shifter's and would not own it without them. Must say, I prefer the steering column paddle shifters (on the G37) much more than the paddle shifters on the steering wheel (XKR). With the shifters on the column they never move and you always know where they are........
I never thought of the G37 coupe as a "girly car". It is a car I have considered buying. Isn't it just a luxury version of the Nissan 370Z?
 
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DGL
Thanks for the diagrams and the info.

After letting my car set for 3 weeks, with no charger connected, it started up with no problem with lots of power and no battery warnings. Everything appears normal. My opitmate battery charger/maintainer is very sensitive and shows a bit of amber in the maintainer state which means there is a bit of a drain, but not enough to worry about. When I used the key FOB to open the doors with the maintainer connected it immediately went to red to show significant battery drain, which would be normal).
Out of curiosity, how long does it take for the home screen to come on on the touch-screen when you start up the car?
 
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86
Out of curiosity, how long does it take for the home screen to come on on the touch-screen when you start up the car?
Well, if you're battery is up to snuff, immediately. If you're waiting five to ten seconds and wondering if it WILL function, and I have been there, then...battery.
 

Last edited by TFlan; 02-24-2013 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86
Out of curiosity, how long does it take for the home screen to come on on the touch-screen when you start up the car?

As soon as I unlock my door or open the doors the "R" appears on the infotainment screen. When I shut the door the start/stop bottom begins to pulse. If my cars battery is low it will not start. This happened after my car was stored for a few weeks and I cleaned it with the doors and hatch opened for sometime. I connected the battery maintainer for 10 minutes and it immediately started. A lot of new Bentley's and very high end cars either come with a battery maintainer or have it as an option.

The Jaguar has more battery drain than my Infiniti 2011 G37 convertible as evident by my battery maintainer. This concern is what initiated this thread. Everything is normal. My battery maintainer is very sophisticated and given the large amount of electronics in cars today batteries are taxed to the maximum. Cars keep getting more advanced; however, batteries have remained at 12 volts. Even my hand held cordless house hold tools have 18/22 volts power source batteries. I also think infinity electronics are more refined. Really, is there any need to have a CD navigation appliance the size of a toaster!
 

Last edited by DGL; 02-26-2013 at 03:25 AM.
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