Not today, but replaced the exhaust with an Adamesh Stage 1.
Whoever owned the car before me did a pretty lousy job at a back box delete and welded some junk pipes in place - Last time I was underneath, I reached around the top and felt a massive hole. 😅
Looking at the owner history, I’m not sure why they’d spend so little on the exhaust job when the car was probably very expensive, as was the fine job on powder coating the wheels. Maybe a quick fix for a stolen cat or something?
A year after ordering my SDD kit, finally summoned up the courage to use it to program (2) spare key-fobs. Process was somewhat uneventful;,.took about fifteen minutes. Mostly intuitive, though some steps kinda vague. Keep fobs handy, mark blanks accordingly, use high amps battery supply, think each step through, and take as long as it takes.
The whole thing about wheel must be flush with the fender is purely a state of mind. On race cars they in-set the wheel to reduce drag. And many incredible cars had that look like the one below. (and the etype)
But what made the Countach was the widest tire available at the time. That rear end made the whole car.
Your car looks good and has that element. I am going for 305 too.
With 5200 miles on her and 1400 of those THIS year... Im getting new Michelin Pilot Spot 4S tires put on the 13 XKR-S in a few hours. She has 12 yr old Pirelli P-Zero that feel like BrIcKs due to age currently!!! Going from 255/295 to 265/305.
I had my original front and rear Alcon rotors replaced today and used Brembo ceramic pads to eliminate the OEM pad black brake dust. See my Post #64 here.
Nothing about what I DID, per se, but I went to Discount Tire to have a leak repaired in the front.
The stupid Nevis is cracked.
At least now it's an excuse to get two rear wheels and put 'em on the front. That'd also necessitate getting (ugh) spacers for the rear since it'd look dumb with the fronts even and the backs sucked in.
Fixed my coolant leak. Replaced the valley hose, water pump and associated 'broken by me' plastic' parts.
While waiting parts delivery I got impatient and polished the car for the 10,000 time.
Good times ahead with low to mid 70's, top down driving on the horizon.
wj
It took 2 years, a lot of patience, a few hundred bucks in supplies and labor, and unloading a bunch of junk into a storage unit in the pouring rain, but I can get my car into the garage!
I also ordered a set of BC Racing DS series coilovers! Working on getting all poly bushings to replace the old rubber bushings at all the joints, tie rods, etc. This should significantly firm up the car's handling while improving the ride comfort, as these are digressive coilovers vs linear ones. Refer to Jahummer's review thread here for more info. Also, they're running a Black Friday sale right now, making the superior DS series the same cost as the typical retail for the common BR series. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...inally-215664/
Recently found that drivers' seat wouldn't retract back (legroom) to accommodate a taller driver. SDD calibration didn't resolve the situation. Looking for possible obstructions, found a screw (probably from something inside the seat) wedged in the track, restricting rearward movement. Pried out screw, ran SDD seat calibration again, and all well. Do not fear SDD, but respect it.
I used a Chinese Obd2 gauge under the dash for a year and I then found a small enough Arduino screen to fit it on the cluster in a custom pod.
This configuration ended up too small for my vision and I worked on a version with larger digits. If anyone wants to do it, I can share Arduino parts, schematics, code and 3d STL
Video: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fcR...UimKlwDg1Qhx6A
This project became obsolete a week later, since I installed mr12volt CarPlay and have a bt Obd2 sending the data to carscanner app. With a small iOS automation starts & works on the background with set earlier temperature or voltage audible alerts.
My overhead console needed help. Two of the Homelink buttons were broken and hanging down…still worked, but felt very fragile. I had been searching for a replacement…most on eBay were for a coupe and I have a convertible, and the suitable ones were $500.00…finally saw one from a breaker in Wisconsin that was the right one, pics looked good and priced at $125.00 OBO. We agreed on $85.00 shipped, it arrived yesterday and it was an easy plug and play. Lights work, parking sensors work, convertible top switch works and all Homelink buttons are perfect and work too! Made my day!
I put my weld-repaired cracked Nevis back on my car, and I haven't died yet! Course I haven't DRIVEN it yet...
If I don't post again, I'm probably deceased.
I put my weld-repaired cracked Nevis back on my car, and I haven't died yet! Course I haven't DRIVEN it yet...
If I don't post again, I'm probably deceased.
I put my weld-repaired cracked Nevis back on my car, and I haven't died yet! Course I haven't DRIVEN it yet...
If I don't post again, I'm probably deceased.
With 5200 miles on her and 1400 of those THIS year... Im getting new Michelin Pilot Spot 4S tires put on the 13 XKR-S in a few hours. She has 12 yr old Pirelli P-Zero that feel like BrIcKs due to age currently!!! Going from 255/295 to 265/305.
May you please share your feedback ?
I also have P-Zero on my 2013 XK R-S, and plan to go for Pilot Sport 4S when it's time. I believe it can improve traction.
Michelin Pilot.... the absolute worst tire I've ever owned. They literally tried to kill me, they threw off large chunks of tread down to the cord in less than 3,000 miles. Never in my life would I take any Michelin tire even if I was paid to do so.
I put my weld-repaired cracked Nevis back on my car, and I haven't died yet! Course I haven't DRIVEN it yet...
If I don't post again, I'm probably deceased.
For just street driving, it should be fine.
Cheers.
never die. They just re tire.
