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Got slightly distracted with the autosol whilst changing the oil
Nice and shiny!
Had stainless steel loud mufflers on my MG ZT260 which I couldn't resist on polishing with autosol one's a year, all the way around.
Shouldn't need to ask but you did take the muffler off to do the upperside, I mean, do it right or don't do it!:-D
I also was informed that the 4.2L tank has been superceded, and it's actually an F-Type part number for the new replacement version, which is a little surprising.
The original has been superseded multiple times but I see 2 current parts listed, C2P18816 which appears exclusive to the 4.2 motor and C2P25607 which is listed for 5.0 and 4.2 motors...which did you come up with? I'd like to do this next week, even though I've no issues with mine, just as an inexpensive precaution.
Got mine back from the detailer...quite some paint correction needed for a car that sat unused for 14 months, in fact despite having a 48hr CTEK before going in the battery was dead sitting for 6days unused. Luckily removed the type 19 (now months 7 old but with 5yr guaranteed) battery from my old X100 before it was scrapped...so will fit tomorrow
Put your sunglasses on!
Not a bad finish.
OK interior not to everyone's taste, now man with hands behind his head is wearing a bow tie!
Little used rears...but my 5ft Mum will fit in there
Dead pedal fitted...weirdly came from Spain in 3 days....nice!
Does my @ss look big in this?
Front Callys with R
Rear Cally's with R transfer...plus black nail varnish (my secret is out!) on the carriers
Can you see my CTEK peeking out?
Full Frontal
Cosmetics yet to do
1) Move number plate to top of front bumper when my private plate of M16 XKB is transfered
2) Cover current number plate holes with carbon wrap until filled/repainted next year
3) Wrap wing mirrors in same carbon wrap (if I can figure out how to removed the darned things)!
4) A little carbon wrap behind both rear wheels on body kit...as there's some quite bad rash from road debris...unless anyone has a better suggestion?
5) Wortec suncut discs/rotors being fitted in Nov
6) Sand and paint (black) exhaust pipes...Spring I think for that
Practical:
a) Water pump change with all ancillaries
b) New EBC red pads front and rear
c) winter Vulcans fitted with winter tyres when temps drop below 10c
d) rubber car mats going in in Nov/Dec
Installed my back up camera today. I have the SDD & open car config file so I was able to turn the system on & run the wires like you would for any camera system.
Nothing special there. Pretty easy job once the system is activated. Works just like OEM system would have.
just go into reverse & that’s it. No extra button pushing.
I seemed to have mentioned it to you about telling the detail'er to keep the charger on it. It's a given that it will go dead when they leave the doors open to do the insides. By the way where did you ground the Cetek. Hopefully not on the battery. Good luck bringing it back to life.
JT, when I dropped the car to him he had a CTEK, however the following day he ran it over with a Range Rover...oops!
Am giving him my spare to use in the future and he's knocking £40 off a future service
You really don't need to ground a CTEK as you do with other chargers, it's called good European design/engineering...and I think you'll find multiple users on all marques that don't with no ill effects
JT, when I dropped the car to him he had a CTEK, however the following day he ran it over with a Range Rover...oops!
Am giving him my spare to use in the future and he's knocking £40 off a future service
You really don't need to ground a CTEK as you do with other chargers, it's called good European design/engineering...and I think you'll find multiple users on all marques that don't with no ill effects
Sorry wrong terminology. I meant the negative wire on the Ctek.
Got up this morning from a good night sleep and went out in the garage to see if I had been dreaming or if there actually was a beautiful XKR there. It is there!
I will try to get some pictures today and post them. I can't believe I have this car. I just love looking at it, not to mention driving it.
Sorry wrong terminology. I meant the negative wire on the Ctek.
To the negative terminal on the battery, the way I've done it for 18yrs with them and never an issue, despite temperamental systems on Audi's and Aston's.
I have two batteries I use as spares that have been with me for 15yrs and they hold their charge beautifully, I really should recycle them
If anyone has had problems with using a CTEK in this manner then speak now or forever hold his peace
To the negative terminal on the battery, the way I've done it for 18yrs with them and never an issue, despite temperamental systems on Audi's and Aston's.
I have two batteries I use as spares that have been with me for 15yrs and they hold their charge beautifully, I really should recycle them
If anyone has had problems with using a CTEK in this manner then speak now or forever hold his peace
Check the OM as it should be down stream from the battery monitor module which is on the neg. battery terminal. This is the module that Jaguar resets after installation of a new battery. The 5L cars have a interesting charging system unlike the earlier cars.
Check the OM as it should be down stream from the battery monitor module which is on the neg. battery terminal. This is the module that Jaguar resets after installation of a new battery. The 5L cars have a interesting charging system unlike the earlier cars.
Owners Manual only says "The battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle before charging"
The process you outline of using the remote negative terminal only relates to jump starting in my manual
It isn't in the owner's manual, because the official advice is to take the battery out rather than charging it in place. However, most people don't want the hassle of removing the battery, so they just connect up the charger in place - or they permanently install a CTEK or similar. I asked Jaguar about the correct connection point:
Q: Should permanent wiring for a battery maintainer on a 5.0 be connected direct to the battery terminals or should it be connected 'outside' the battery monitoring module (so that the charging current can be seen by the module)?
A: If you are using a normal charging lead, red leads goes on the positive post and black lead connects to a chassis ground point.
The explanation I've seen elsewhere is that the Battery Monitoring System works better if it can monitor the charge going into the battery. It isn't mandatory, just good practice.
As you know there are battery chargers you can buy on ebay for less than £10...those I'd not let anywhere near my car...and if I was using a Halfords £20 charger I'd connect the way that prescribed, but I don't consider a CTEK a normal charger.
As you know there are battery chargers you can buy on ebay for less than £10...those I'd not let anywhere near my car...and if I was using a Halfords £20 charger I'd connect the way that prescribed, but I don't consider a CTEK a normal charger.
I was talking about smart chargers like the Ctek and not a larger battery charger. That you hook up just like you are jump starting where the positive terminal is located on the left side of the boot behind the small plastic grill. Under the rubber cover is the positive terminal and you hook up the negative cable to a stud in the spare tire area. I recall seeing either in the OM or the maintenance manual how to hook up a battery maintainer. file:///C:/Users/Steve/Downloads/Battery%20Monitor%20System%20(1).pdf
It is there!
