If you're intending to double-check the ECM, would you take a couple of shots of the circuit board while you're in there if there's any sign of corrosion. A shot of the capacitors, showing the date code (e.g. A9530 - week 30 of 1995 - in Dave's post above) would confirm whether they're the originals, or the ECM has been refurbed at some point.

I'm not familiar with the i930 so maybe it's just the way that device reports live.

As dibbit notes, it may just all need to dry out properly, but no harm in belt n' braces.

 

If you do need an ECU, I have found them on Ebay and had them cloned to my cars. There is also a place in New York that does ECU repair and they got one working to me before. I believe around $300

 

UPDATE:
A couple of days ago she said the car had a hard time turnibg over but it did start. She took it for a drive all gagues were normal with no warning lights on the dash.
She picked up a new battery yesterday and I installed it for her and also fixed her rear view mirror that keeps falling down.
She took it for a drive and no issues and car if functioning normally. I told to take drives locally the next few days to see if there is a CEI or other dash warnings.
I think the moisture in the engine bay and the failing battery contributed to her problems. Told her to call me if she has any issues.

 

Well done....

 

BobRoy has been a great help, great resource. And doesn’t make me feel stupid. Battery change-out.. have a few things to re-set; windows, key fob, etc. Initially , after install of battery, had a whole slew of things pop up on dash; driver door open, hood open, trunk open, low washer fluid..and none of those were occurring. Went away. But curious to see what happens when I crank her up today.
LOL..easier for BobRoy to actually get into the car when I put the roof down! He’s not short like I am.

 

Went back to Rosevillesister today. The only issue is the coolant temperature gauge. It will be working normally at first start up. Starts on cold and moves to half way when warm. Checked data stream and it was at 181°.
Stut the car down and restart the gague was showing just a bit above cold and data showed 112°. It only when up a little bit more, maybe at 1/4, but I touched the crossove pipe near the sensor and it was very hot. Definitely more than 112°.
Took the ECM out and examined it closely, tried to upload the pics I took but couldn't get it to work. I will try again layer.
The ECM look pristine inside with no signs of water intrusion. The capacitors looked good with no leakage and no corrosion on the board anywhere.
The ECM was updaed or repaired on 4/11/2014 according to a sticker on the outside. It was done by ECM of Grand Prairie, TX.
I left and later she sent me this text.
Well well well.
Started car as suggested, gauge went immediately to that proper spot. Okaaay. Got about 1 mi, temp gauge started up…. higher at idle, dropping a bit at first when car started moving, by then I decided to go right back home,then started climbing and quickly went to hot zone and red light. I decided to pull into the shade of parking lot for at least 30min.

Any ideas. The sensor was changed recently but I noticed the the connector was spliced into the harness. It had electrical tape around it.4
I guess I will proably go back there tomorrow and check if the splice was done properly.

 

Figured out how to upload pics of ECM.

 

It looks like all the capacitors except the big one down in the bottom left hand corner have been replaced

 

Has the thermostat been replaced?
The AJ6/16 thermostats would fail OPEN (never get to operating temp) but the AJ8 thermostats fail CLOSED and the engine overheats.

 

Thermostat replaced2 weeks ago, along with water temp sensor , radiator hoses

 

I'm thinking something is giving the gague a false reading. Either the sensor or somewhere in the electronics(ECM,wiring).
When I check the live data when the engine is hot, I know this because it was shut down less than a minute ago, the live shows about 110° and gague is at a hair above cold. I went out and touched the crossover pipe and it was hot as hell, I didn't have an infared sensor. Earlier before we shut down the live data showed 180° and the gague was at normal operating temperature. In my opinion the gague is showing the temperature that the car is giving it, but something is giving the car the wrong temperature reading. Either the temp sensor, wiring or the modules.

 

If you put a voltmeter across the temperature sensor while it is plugged in, you should get a voltage reading that falls the higher the temperature gets. On my 2001 it is listed as 0.41 V @ 90 °C (DECREASING VOLTAGE WITH TEMPERATURE INCREASE)

What you are looking for is a consistent value that isn't jumping around. You can also unplug the sensor and check it on the resistance range of your mustimeter - again you want something consistent. If you have suitable resistors you can connect those in place of the temperature sensor and see if the car then reads a constant temp value. This way you can work out if the fault lies in the sensor or the wiring/computer.