I have a 2001 xkr 63K miles when I accelerate hard from a slow speed I sometime get the smell of petrol/gas in the cabin. No codes showing and STFT/LTFT are ok.

And yes I have updated the evap purge value in the driver side (usa) wing/fender to the latest version and there is no ticking or smell of gas/petrol at idle from anywhere around the car.

Car has new fuel filter/ fuel pumps and is well serviced. CA car. I have had this problem for at least 10K but appears to happen more often now I drive the car more regularly.

Thanks for any help

 

This link to a TSB for your car addressing Fuel Smell

Link to TSB http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/303-63.pdf

 

As I said I have replaced the purge value with the latest version

 

Look carefully at that TSB...there is a stub pipe hose and filter that is added that exits now under the hood.

There is also another TSB: http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2...por%20Odor.pdf

Also check the connections to the black charcoal canisters under the car between the rear wheels. There is also a small black rubber hose, about 2" long connected to one of the charcoal canisters that is notorious for dry rotting.

 

At times I wonder why I bother to help!

 

Believe me Gus, as a 2001 XKR owner like simonnallen, I learned these lessons the hard way! Solving gas smell on this vintage XKR is like whack-a-mole.

 

Check the fuel rail? When the ac/heat is on and you don't have it on recirc it could be pulling in fumes that way. I had a leaking pulsation dampener. I could smell it, only leaked and smelled at certain times. Something to look at, make sure nothing on rail is leaking.

 

When I did the new Purge Value I installed the pipe and the filter into the engine bay (where the brake fluid reservoir is). All the pipes look good and the breather to the rocker cover/throttle body is not blocked.

I have also notice the last few times I've filled it up the vent grill inside where the filler cap is looks wet. Not sure if that is related to this problem

Note the smell only happens under hard acceleration from say 20-30 miles an hour and then I gun it. So if there is any leaks in the rear of the car you would not smell them as the smell would blow way down wind. But I will check the canisters tomorrow on the passenger side. Note car did have the canister recall done in 2004.

As its supercharged so intake is under 7-10lbs pressure I would think fuel rail is the more likely suspect ?

What do you guys think?

 

The fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator or injector seals are certainly possibilities, but fuel rail problems seem more common on the 4.2s than the 4.0. Also accessing the fuel rail on the supercharged engine is a project, so inspect for the low hanging fruit first.

I solved my issues by implementing both TSBs fully.

 

My car is a coupe I did check the two canisters and all connecting pipes all looks good no cracks or damaged pipes all dry and no corrosion down there.

Fuel rail visibly looks ok but as its all buried under the inter-coolers its hard to see.

 

So still have the fuel smell but also have high -ve long term fuel trims. -13 and -15%

I tested the fuel pressure it was 37psi at idle and it jumped to 43psi when I disconnected the fuel regulator breather. So regulator seems ok.

I also found that the inter-cooler water pump was not working bad connection. Could that be why the fuel trims are high negative? I'm thinking less cooling of the compressed air means its less dense i.e engine ECM assumes fuel/air mixture based on a certain density as air temp/flow is only measured at the MAF so ECM fuel/air mixture is bases on air out the super charger at a density that is predetermined when the ECM is programmed. So if the compressed air is not cooled there,s less air (less density) but still the same amount of fuel hence -ive fuel trims.

All this does not account for the fuel smell under high acceleration

 

i do know our cars have duel fuel pumps and the secondary runs briefly on startup then only when hard acceleration/demand. I haven't looked at the jtis to see how the fuel lines merge.. maybe something to check. your fuel pressure seems low but i'd have to check that also, thought mid 40s was normal.

update: check jtis this morning , pressure looks ok,
Start the engine and record the fuel pressure reading.As a guide, the fuel pressure should be approximately 3.0 bar (44.1 psi) with the regulator disconnected.With the engine still running, reconnect the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator and record the reading.The pressure should drop to approximately 2.6 bar (38 psi) when the vacuum hose is reconnected.

They do not indicate how the two pumps connect their supply lines, they mention the two pumps but nothing in the service tells how they interconnect, if anyone knows it's something I'd be interested in.

 

As noted I did change mine quite recently (fuel pumps) they run in parallel and are inside the fuel tank there are two separate relays in the trunk so you can bridge those with ignition on to test them separately. I found one of mine was dead the secondary so I changed them both and the fuel filter.

I will get the proper connector for the inter cooler pump next week my homemade version was melting and so I was not getting a good connection. I'll reset the ECM after I install the new elec connector and get back to you with the LTFT after a few hundred miles driving. See if my theory is correct.

 

Ok I have the inter cooler pump working and after ECM reset and 300 miles I still have very high -ive LTFT showing -10% and -12%

Anyone any ideas fuel pressure ok, fuel regulator ok, air filter ok, I cleaned the MAF.

 

Perhaps you have become a victim of the infamous XKR EGR valve horror.

Your EGR bolts have come loose or missing, EGR itself or pipe bad /there are two GOLD 8mm bolts that hold it on the rear of the throttle body and a gasket, they loosen up and even fall out in the XKR's.Space it very tight, back there, and don't GET BURNED.

You accelerate hard and smell what the valve has to offer and that is a mixture before it hits the converter under hard acceleration.

The Jaguar tsb is interesting, as how could some cars take 15 years to develop a gas smell, when the issue was not present before.HMM, that's because a part has failed,thanks Jaguar, a tsb means you pay (they profit) for offering you a updated design , that should of been a recall (they pay) for you can have a migraine from smelling fumes(law suit, as the tsb shows manufacturer error).

 

Now I did have one of those bolts fall out of the EGR value. I found it on top of the transmission. And it was not the first time! I notice back in 2004 Jag Dealer said they had run the thread on one of the bolts and charged jag 2 hrs labor to fix it. They were doing the TSB to change the EGR pipe.

At that time I took throttle body off and EGR valve out and clean both I didnt check the EGR pipe to see if it was split. So does the replacement pipe fail or is it the EGR bolts that fall out.

I should check the bolts again. Now if the pipe fails or bolts fall out that would let outside air in and so you would have +ive fuel trims and not -ive so I really dont think that is the problem. Also it would be hard for the fuel to get from inside the inlet manifold through the supercharger and out through the throttle body elbow as air is going in the other direction and getting compressed and forced into the inlet manifold. So that TSB would not cause fuel smell.

 

For the -ve fuel trims, could it be a dirty MAF or air cleaner? Maybe a bad air temp sensor or MAP sensor?

Both sides are about the same suggesting something common to both banks.

As for the fuel smell under acceleration, is it a raw fuel smell or more exhaust like? Reason I ask is that I also have a coupe and get an exhaust like smell in the car when I give it full throttle AND the AC is on recirculate.

I assume it is something to do with the pressure in the cabin and the vents under the rear bumper but have never quite worked out how it occurs. Never get a smell if the AC is taking in outside air.

 

Air clean and MAF have been cleaned replaced. The fuel smell is pure petrol smell comes and goes last two weeks have been ok I drive 300 miles a week. I'll get the PID values tomorrow after a run and post the good values from MAY/2015 (lucky I kept those) vs the -ive values I get now at idle. So check back should be interesting to see both.