Hello All.

So after hearing about the challenges and how difficult a task I finally went in (after about 5k miles of owning her) and changed the tranny fluid and filter. Honestly, I don't know what all of the fuss was about.

The most time consuming and worrisome part for me was no lift (I might have been able to rent one but didn't for fear of fear itself, due to all the hype about how long it would take) but once I got her up, she was up.

I cracked the fill plug with an 8mm Allen that I special ordered for a half inch drive which made breaking both the drain and fill easy peazy... Made reinserting the fill plug easier with gloved hands an a larger tool to hold - as opposed to a smaller 3/8th drive. I weighed the fluid that came out after for good measure. Roughly 9lbs 12oz... Or 9.815 lbs. Using pounds and onces just simplied calculations for me. I was starting with 15lbs of new fluid.

Fluid was black, stinky and just WRONG. Changing fluid is a must. I paid 17bucks a gallon from Walmart. 2 gallons. Valvoline Maxx Life... Cheap, easy, available...

For the torx bolts, I prayed and held my breath. All came out without stripping but I DID go and spend 7bucks or so on a NEW Craftsman T27 torx bit. Seemed like a good idea. Because I'm old, lol, and I didn't want to deal with holding my arms up to turn alllll 23 or 24 fasteners out manually, so I took my rechargable drill, used an angle grinder to cut the socket receiving end off a medium size extension, and used it in the drill with torx bit to quickly remove all bolts. Leaving two corners hand tight to hold the pan in place. Later, came by hand, turned them out, to drop pan. Easy.

Filter came right out and was replaced with new O'ring.

I was determined to NOT use torx bolts again so I ordered 30 new hex bolts from McMaster Carr for 9bucks plus shipping. Silly me I forgot to order stainless equivalent washers, but made due at my local hardware supplier. Love Carr. What a great site!

Took pan, cleaned it out, placed the gasket using ten sections of thread to hold it in place... (my mistake) I used a rubber cork gasket 1,,,, and 2,,, with no rtv... A little smear of rtv I always find to be helpful.

Replaced and torqued bolts to 9ft/lbs. Felt right. There were 4 bolts that did not cooperate with a socketed fastener. Too wide for the space between between the body of the pan and outer rim. I got a large plier and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY bent out (this is your choice of course) the outer rim a fraction to accept the socket for torquing the bolts.

On refill, I started engine with fill bolt out and pumped in a gallon of the new fluid. Things looked good. I let temp come up on dash temp needle and with my hand began feeling for steady 100 to 110 degrees. At about 100+ degrees, pumped in the the rest of fluid until it started dripping, and at that, I went, using the brake when needed, and ran thru ALL gears on the shift and pressing accelerator in D to ensure (hope) gear changes were accomplished... Using hand again, feeling for 100 degrees (just over body temp) pumped in more till just spilling out. Wearing gloves, I replaced fill fill plug with extension. Easy. No burns.

Let her down and LEAK!!! PITA...

Being the TRUE (I LIE) optimist,,, knowing I didn't get all of the Jägermeister out of the torque converter,,, I figured this was a blessing in disguise. I went over, got a new gasket (different thinner more solid gasket - not cork), 2 more gallons of Valvoline and some RTV red.

Now, I only needed to jack the rear as the drain plug is on front of pan and drained it (being very careful to not spill a DROP!!!), then jack the front HIGH to retake down the pan. Hit each bolt with the new 10mm socket option and drill, less than 10min. Remove pan, place gasket with RTV and thread and replaced...

Now, the cool thing is, I know exactly how much fluid came out, was needed to go back in to refill (she was quite low the first time btw) and exactly what cam out this time...

I simply pumped 10lbs of fluid into the top outlet/return to trans port on the LH top corner of the Rad this morning giving the RTV almost 24 hours to dry. NO KORE LEAK and THE DIFFERENCE in her drive is considerable, noticable and worth it for the driving AND piece of mind. I highly recommend doing this job...

Real work time it think it took less than 4hour and that's with the leak fix and making the first attempt right.

I'm repairing the drive set and carrier hub, axle on my Porsche 928... Don't even want to mention the 90 XJS, lol. Give me this job any ol day!!!



Gear

A good scale

Highly recommend

DANGER Will Robinson!!!

Jägermeister

New bolts...

 

Are you sure that's the correct ATF for your 5HP24 transmission?

 

Do you have information I need?

 

Nice job. I was not brave enough to tackle this job myself so full credit for you for doing it yourself. This is the story of my oil change Franks Gearbox Oil and Filter Change
There is more both before and after that link but I am sure you get the idea.

Officially these boxes are "Sealed For Life" but I think that is a rubbish idea. ALL oil deteriorates after time. Makes sense to do an oil change before problems start.

So good job. Not everyone would do it at the roadside, nice car too.

 

Go check that Valvoline Max Life bottle to make sure that it meets the following spec: Esso LT71141
If it does, you should be good to go.

 

Oh,,, I thought you knew something I needed to know...?

 

Thanks man! I can't really say I was having problems problems, I did always have what I would describe as a looooow level whine from the gear box, I could hear it when sitting in traffic or near an embankment in D,,, I attributed to a "starving" for fluid, but, believe it or not - I still hear it. HoooHumm...

But,,, the drive has changed! Much improved shifting up and down, sitting on a hill at a light in D she holds differently, run is smooooother, and differences I might not have discovered yet. It's a good thing, I think.

Hoping to get some comments on my "Front SubFrame Mounts" post...

 

Transmissions are really finicky when it comes to the ATF you use. If you use the wrong ATF, you could end up with a transmission that slams into gears, or slips. On my car, with the ZF-6 speed, you must use an ATF that meets Shell 1375.4 spec (or something like that). The official fluid is Lifeguard 6, the forum's go to is Motorcraft Mercon SP. There is a redline that some people use, and I've had a good experience with Liqui-Moly Top-tec 1800 ATF.

On your car with the 5-speed transmission, you have a wider variety of ATF brands to choose from, but the official fluid is Lifeguard 5. As long as the fluid you use meets Esso LT71141 spec it should be ok. If it doesn't, drain the fluid and fill with a fluid that does meet the spec ASAP.

 

JayJagJay,

Well done on the job, and I like the photos of a jacked up X100 in sunny NY streets and esp. the pic of the shopping cart..... real man shopping.

I had some harsh downshifts 2-1-stop and also 5-4 on the freeway, when the engine was hot and when mostly going uphill so I did the job but using a lift. I also took the opportunity to install the Transgo PR valve upgrade as a precaution to avoid the dreaded A drum failure. I've previously worked on an engine&gearbox on a BMW so knew my way around a ZF valve body.

And I also had a PITA moment during the job. I also replaced all the T27 bolts with new too.

I too was very careful about the amount of ATF fluid I put in, as too much is just as bad as too little.

Similar to you, the smoother gearbox behavior is immediately noticeable when driving.

A thing to note is that some Forum members have noticed a low level "whine" noise after the job. A pro said that it could be due to the aftermarket ATF filter so he recommended always using an OEM filter.

 

Good morning, David. Thanks man!

I am very interested in hearing more about all of these things. I had searched around a couple of years ago (ashamed that that is how long I let it go) about the whine... I am not sure yet if this has been reduced or if there is any change post filter change. The old filter was pretty gummed up... We'll see, with the ears that is...

I worry about too much fluid as well. I think it a really poor design (one I don't understand honestly) a transmission without a clear and simple way to check the level, color, smell of the transmission fluid and a simple way to add or take away. I have been thinking about a pressure fitting into the fill port and bending a tube, myself, butting a cable attached to a knob - basically designing a dipstick. It's crazy what they did with this transmission...

If you would,,,, please say a bit more about the transgo PR valve. That is way outside my knowledge level,,, lol,,, but most things are. I have a spare engine and trans with 37k miles on it. I've been wanting, FOR 2+ YEARS, to do the swap!

Any experience with pushing out the round front subframe mounts???

Thanks Dave

 

JayJagJay

Here’s the link to the Transgo website.
TransGo ZF 5HP-24

Basically it’s an upgrade of the existing hydraulic valve in the ZF5HP24 valve body. Cheap part. The new PR valve is a different shape and has brass sealing rings to take up any wear in the valve body bore. I did it as a precaution as the ZF5HP24 has a known weakness in the A Drum (FYI there’s also an upgraded A drum available too).

Lots of experiences here on the Forum for the relatively simple install, done at the same time as the ATF filter change. You just need to drop the lower front valve body out. Here’s a Youtube video on the subject.


Sorry I haven’t done any work on the front sub frame...not needed to.... yet! LOL

 

David this is GREAT info.

I have a 2000 xk8 motor and trans with less than 40k miles on it. Just sitting there. I have been trying to gain the courage to do the engine trans swap - for a WHILE now. And yes, I have heard of the ADrum problem, it's been suggested to me to make the fix BEFORE the swap, BUT, this is the first time I am hearing the connection between the valve and the ADrumm... Hmm.

The video is GREAT but, there is a lot lot more I would need to know (see actually) before I felt even CLOSE to ready to start digging into a transmission like that. I just don't have the experience.

I know there is prolly a lot to read out there, and certainly here on the forum (a brilliant resource) but I am by far much much more a visual person.

It's things like these (although there is a wealth of info) that makes procrastinating doing a job (the swap) I really really want to do, so easy to put off.

Tough spot...

 

Check out this thread from member BobRoy:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1648275

 

BeaUTifulll, Michael! Really!

Ok. Maybe the answer is in the amazing write up,,, the info from transgo PR,,, that link and PDF, but I'll ask anyways....

When you remove the bolts/torx and drop the forward half of the valve body (will I need to???) does it leave ALL the little bits and pieces in the channels on the upper half of the VB to fall out???? If so, O hell no - that's scary as hell, lol.... Will/do the little bearings and bits and pieces described in the video stay on the other side of a plate above the lower section of the forward VB??? I don't even know if I'm asking that question correctly, lol...

How did I get to the point where I'm even THINKING to ask questions about repairing the INNERDZ of a jaguar zf transmission???? Slap me silly, lol...

 

Great thread and also the other one on the Transgo mod.

This makes me think.. is there anywhere (i couldnt find it.. ) that shows all the best practices for maintenance and upkeep for our 'boxes? I have a 1999 XKR and all i have done thus far was the oil and filter change. Always wanted blue tops but too expensive in my opinion for my aging car.. i spend too much on general maintenance and rust prevention! but.. a gearbox is worth trying to prevent and maintain..

What are our common failures and what are the preventative actions... like the Transgo one.. (not for my box I believe...)

 

@Jay - Have to confess I still haven't done this job although I've had the bits for almost a couple of years. I want to wrap it up with replacing the cooler hoses once I have found a way to get two tons of car high enough and still feel safe crawling under there...

I think the only things to be aware of are addressed in the thread either by BobRoy or Don B's contribution.

@dannio - the Merc. box seems to be much more robust. There is a seal that can leak (check forum) although it can be replaced without dropping the pan, I believe. Oil & filter change was a good move.

 

Hi Frank... Hey Man, can you post something about cleaning and caring for the exhaust??? The first joints/turns on my CATs, at the bottoms, were completely rusted, flaking and need attention. I have been wondering about what I should do. In the coming years (fingers super crossed - I'm not made of money) they will have to be replaced I know. But for know I was going to gently hit them with a wire brush and put about 20 coats of high temp manifold or engine paint on them to try to HELP slow the disintegration process...

Any words of wisdom from any ol one are super duper welcome...

Thanks! Love this site.

 

Safety safety safety first first first ********

Completely completely completely understandable, Michael!!! For me, jacking and being under the car like this was the most,,,, don't even really have words for it,,, part! Fear is good, healthy, in this case. And still,,, I got sloppy with safety!!!

I should have included this in the OP.

First, using a good fresh piece of plywood as a runway for my jack (jacks MUST be allowed to role when jacking the car no matter what the reason for jacking) I jacked up the front nearly as high as my """extra height""" harbor freight 3ton jack would go, but not all the way up, placing the jack pad/contact point on the center section of the subframe. Placed jackstands under the front rail/rad support cross member. Then to the back of the car.

On the rear, I took a section of pressure treated 2x9 or 2x11, or something, and put it along the flat section of rear subframe (the "cage" on my XJS) and sloooowly jacked the rear (on my plywood runway) watching the front stands very closely as I jacked. Up nice and easy. Second stands placed either on rear subframe or on flats near jack points, with a wood pad.

Then back to the front to gain the last few inches.

Then to the rear again with a second flat of pressed wood for a few more inches, and leveling.

Tires, jack and jack stands all placed UNDER THE CAR and NEAR ME with tires to prevent the crushing should ALL HELL BREAK LOOSE!!!

I felt safe under there - over time - only after all of this. And still it's sketchy...

 

I am afraid there is not much we can do about our exhausts except change them to a better grade Stainless Steel (SS) say grade 304. I tried every recommended product on the market to restore mine. The definitely looked better but not as good as they should. The original SS exhausts were made of inferior grade SS. As I said I tried everything I could find. Including Wire Brushing, electric drill with wire brush. Soaking in various proprietary chemicals meant do this job. Even soaked paper towels in White Vinegar. Wrapped those around the exhaust and secured it on with cling film. Left it for a day or so. Improved but did not get rid of rust.

One thing that taught me a lot was the rear of the exhaust. The two back boxes and pipes had been replaced with straight through pipes. This option was made from higher grade stainless, the 304 mentioned before, they came up lovely with comparatively little effort. Take a look. click me to see and another bit.

I expect yours look like mine. This is part of the story where I tried to improve things. click me to see grotty exhaust and the before/after pics to compare my efforts, a week of them. Before and After

Sorry I am not the bearer of better news. Quiet by chance I am going to try and upgrade my exhaust in the next few weeks to a better grade. I can get a custom exhaust made locally. Keep an eye on 'Franks Story' for the update.

Good luck with yours. Looks like your doing a splendid job.