Did you try going direct R and YR, one to ground one to pos post on battery, or from some other 12v source? Basically you are just trying to use those two wires that go directly to the pump to SEE if it will spin or not with voltage and ground applied... Remember when testing with BOTH wires to unplug the module all together.

If the car didn't provide 12v to the fuel pump module with OE set up at all, this might be an indication of something else going on... Something more with the "ok to fuel" command that comes with a multi step process with chip in key, exciter ring, key transponder module, BPM and ECU - and instrument cluster... It really can be a pain in the butt...

Do you have the electrical diagram?

When messing around in the door are you absolutely SURE you did not blow a fuse somewhere? Although it does seem like everything (including power) is still driving the door function ie door processing module.

I need to go back a reread your first couple of posts.

 

I just did the direct connect with R and RY wires — one to ground the other to positive post on battery. No sound from pump! Do I now assume it’s the pump? I repeated several times to confirm.

Bill

 

See what others think but, sad to say, most likely yes...

When I powered the pump in my car this way it worked 100% of the time - known good pump.

What I and another forum member had briefly discussed off line was the possibility of using the OLD housing and just dropping and strapping in another pump from a PWModulation designed vehicle and seeing what happened(s)... Last I remember it was a Ford pump for an older Taurus or Mustang. The prices for the pump are obscene...

I'm sure you don't want to be the guinea pig...

​​​​​I guess the next thing to go after is getting that pump OUT and bench testing. Then going from there.

 

Sounds like the pump. No experience w/ cutting the access hole and replacing the pump but JayJagJay's answer to my question makes it sounds pretty simple. If you don't DIY, will a shop just disconnect lines and drop the tank? Good luck w/ it.

 

A pump here in the UK is the equivalent of $15...just changed mine ..took 1 hr inc cutting the rear shelf..old pump is now a spare as I only changed it as a precaution.

 

A shop wouldn't cut an access hole,,, unless you had a friend who owned the shop, maybe. Most would, and charge quite a bit on top of parts costs...

Pistn, same is true for my 2002 xk8... The replacement pump for the earlier xk and the 2003 + are a different design, as the fueling systems are different... An entire new pump assembly can be quite expensive. An alternative is needed. There are stand alone pumps from like walbro and others that are PWM and are much cheaper. Again, it's how does one set that up in the original in tank basket?

 

Sorry I have been sidetracked with other more pressing issue for a few days. I think I will skip the guinea pig at this juncture. Not afraid of DIY and have read a little about the hole drilling method but uncomfortable with doing so with gas in the tank. Surely there is an easy way to drain the tank? So too am I a bit concerned with the hole leaving a large opening in the fire wall. I am really not interested in the effort it takes to remove the tank.

So I am reviewing my options and looks like a visit to my favorite Indy 60 miles away might be in my future.

Thanks to all, especially Jay,Jag Jay for the great comments and interest in my issue. I will keep you posted.

Bill

 

Ok new development. I decided to do a retest of the R and YR test. Pump still does not work. Out of hope that maybe the prior owner had previously cut the hole for a replacement pump (he had not) I removed the metal cover plate in front of the gas tank to get access. As a precaution I disconnected the battery since I was dealin in close quarters with the battery. I reset the windows afterwards but even after hearing the click, they are not dropping or raising when the door closes. In fact window drops an inch or two each time the door handle is pulled. Two steps backwards!

 

The pita window thing is normal. Run the windows up and down 2 or 3 times... Basically,,, the battery must be FULLY charged for these settings to,,, set. If the battery is low, even a bit, God help ya, lol. It is a pain.

If the car is parked outside and having the windows down at all is a no way,,,, run the windows all the way UP, doors OPEN, disconnect the battery and CAREFULLY and slowly close the doors. You MUST guide the windows into there slots at the top (especially front) of the upper door/window frame, leaning into the TOP of the window to fit it into the guide. You'll see.

 

Thanks, The windows are back to normal. I had forgotten to wait for the click when raising the windows. I only waited for the click when lowering. All is good window wise. Unfortunately pump is still an issue.

 

Time to git in there...

 

Is there a post on the "cut an access hole" method somewhere? THanks

 

Update on my non-starter. It is fixed! Not wanting to work around a half tank of gas I decided to have the tow truck take her to my trusty Indy. He fixed it. I picked her up yesterday she is running great!

She now has a new fuel pump but it turns out the pump was good but a plastic pipe that fed the line to the fuel filter had snapped off at the pump and thus dumping the gas back into the tank. Indy said he had never seen that happen before. However on removing the driver's side rear tire to fit a new filter he found the wheel wobbly -- the wheel bearing had recently gone out! Never a noise nor sound of distress! New bearings fitted and all is good. For good measure I had him replace the Octopus hose while there. An expensive week but she is now ready for a road trip!

Thanks to all of you for your comments and advise -- especially JayJagJay!