Hi, everyone. I’m brand-new here and I come to you today with a strange, frustrating 2004 XKR problem. I’m supposed to take it to a certified service center today, but that’s not going to happen unless I can solve the current “makes zero sense” problem.

After sitting for a year during the height of the pandemic, my partner replaced the battery in the car back in February 2022. It seemed my troubles were over, now that it would start easily. Then i didn’t drive it for several months because of a tiny leak in the cooling system; I’d rather not drive it if the “coolant low” light will come on every time and ask me for only 1/2 cup of water. I’d rather wait until the issue’s been fixed and the light won’t come on and worry me.

Last night, I went out to put something in the car and forgot to use the key fob to unlock it first (it’s got what looks like a door unlock fuse issue, from what I’ve read here in the forums). The car alarm sounded briefly, and I stopped it by pressing the red alarm/lock button on the key fob. I opened the door, put my items in the back seat…and the door literally would not close. The hook-like latch inside the edge of the door would not grab the metal loop inside the edge of the door frame. Same thing with the passenger door. Didn’t matter what I tried with the inside door lock/handle positions; neither door would shut. They bounce back as if the seat belt buckle is caught in the door (which it’s not). And, strangely, the windows did not lower/lift the customary 1/4” as they usually do even if the battery is nearly dead.

I wondered if I needed to start the car, and saw that no lights were on in the dome, despite the battery being four months old. Got in, pressed the brake pedal, turned the ignition switch—nothing. From reading the forums, I now know that the XKR won’t start if the door is open. But if the door physically won’t close, even if I use a large screwdriver to maneuver the latch hook (?) where it should be…..well, I guess I can’t ever start it. :-/

So it’s dark, almost 10pm local time, and I decide to get out the battery charger to see if that’s possibly the issue. Nope. Charger indicates the AGM battery is 100% charged. I disconnected and reconnected the charger three times to be sure I was seeing it correctly. “100% charged.” So why the heck are there no lights on in the interior? A bad battery connection? There’s not one that I can see, but that probably means nothing, as corrosion is sneaky.

Any hints on how I can at least get the doors to close so I can put it on a tow truck? I appreciate your time and help.

 

I'm not an expert but does the alarm disable the car? Also, from everything I've read in here, these cars do better when driven on a regular basis. I can confirm this. Bought my 06 two months ago. It had been driven a total of 450 miles in 12 months. Dead battery of course. I am driving 1-2x/week while I get the car sorted out. It idles, sounds, shifts and drives better.

 

Thanks, CA Jag. Now that you mention it, the tiny red light next to the shifter is blinking every few seconds, so it probably is the theft deterrent disabling system. Now to figure out how to reset it.

and yes, you’re 100% correct that a Jaguar does better in general with regular driving. I swear if I can get past this problem, get it to the shop, and get the coolant leak fixed, I’ll drive it three days a week. [sigh] Here’s hoping. Off to read more in the owner’s manual and here in past forum threads…

 

on my ‘02 XKR that red light blinks when the alarm is set, either by locking the doors with the key fob, or by locking the doors with the key turned counterclockwise in the drive side door.

Have you tried locking and unlocking the doors with the key fob as well as trying with the key ?

I would try a “hard reset” first as well.

..sorry if you’ve already covered those bases ?

Z

 

Check you PM i sent you a message.

Gus
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

100 days to fully discharge it and 100 days to set the lead sulphate-like concrete. The charger say fully charged because it is measuring the charger current which is zero so it thinks it charged. Go get a new battery and dont pay over the odds for this AGM crap ...all you are buying is a lump of lead ..get the cheapest you can.
Worked in a battery factory ..the first 100 down the line get " Economy 1 year warranty label" The next identical 100 get " Super life 4 year warrantee" Guess which costs more and which lasts longer ?

 

put your finger into the "hole" in the latch where the door pin goes and with a screwdriver push on the shiney steel bit about 4mm sq at the top near your finger. That will release the latch and you can put it into the correct position to shut,
Its just got its knickers in a twist,

 

Maybe the windows not dropping are stopping the doors from closing - they drop to give clearance while you close the door. Do they open using the window buttons?

 

Dont think so dibbit the locks are in the lock position...you need to move them to unlock ie the gaws are open to engage the B post pin ...instructions above ..always happens to me when I take the door locks out
Photo below the screwdriver is on the bit to press to re set with your finger

This lock is in the open position..release just at end of screwdriver..

 

But how can the door latches be in the closed position after opening the door? Either way, the windows need to be dropped before closing the doors.

 

reset the door locks to open as explained. Turn on ignition and lower the windows. Close the door and re set the window limits.

 

Head lights come on? Horn? They use some juice and will confirm the battery is up or down.

Pistnbroke is right. Some battery chargers say 100% charged when there's no charging current. Can't trust them. You can't ignore Jags and other electronically overloaded vehicles. Gotta check the battery status frequently to catch a dead battery quickly or they turn into a lead block .

 

Thanks to all of you who’ve contributed to the discussion. I’m so sorry for the long gap between updates; it’s been a hectic week in non-automotive matters. [sigh]

My partner and I did the hard reset, and it worked—took about 10 hours. Now the car cranks fine, but we’ve still for what I think are both electrical and mechanical issues with the driver’s side door. I also replaced the half-dozen fuses that I’d identified as possible problems. None of those new fuses seems to have made a difference.

I did the window reset, and the passenger window is fine; opens and closes as it should, and goes up/down that 1/4” or so when I open/close the door. Driver’s side door still won’t close, and won’t remember the window reset. When I pull on the exterior door handle, the window goes down about 1” (as you’d expect before a window reset). Once I’m inside and have the car running, I can raise the window fine with the switch. It still doesn’t lift/lower. I may try resetting it one more time, because why not.

I’ve attached a photo of the door latch that’s stuck in the closed position. I’ve tried the screwdriver suggestion and a couple others, but so far haven’t been able to get the latch to move as it should. Could be that my hands aren’t strong enough or dexterous enough to make this work. A conversation with my stepdad, who worked on the door/window line in an automotive factory for 5 years, leaves me thinking the door lock actuator may be the problem. Something’s slipped off of a lever and therefore the latch doesn’t work.

If I can get the bleeping door to close, I’ll just get in from the passenger side to drive it to the shop.

Bonus: the parking brake lamp on the dashboard is now continually on despite the parking brake NOT being on. Oh, joy.

Again, thank you to everyone who’s posted with suggestions. I’ll keep you updated more quickly this time. :-)

 

I had a problem similar to this. It was the microswitch in the latch. I just replaced the latch and it been working fine for years.

 

Thank you! Good to know!

 

Have you tried the door with the engine running? Low batteries can generate issues, but with the alternator picking up the voltage, you might get lucky.

 

To release the clasp in that door, with door open (obviously, lol) pull interior door handle as IF you were inside and going to open it to get out - know what I mean? I know folks have said what I'll try and describe next,,,


At the same time (interior handle pulled ALL THE WAY to open) take a screwdriver and put it in the space that you see (your photo) in the door latching mechanism... Hold/pull the interior door handle to OPEN. You have to try and imagine what HAPPENS when you are pulling the door closed. That latch, when it strikes the U shaped bracket on the INSIDE of the door jam rolls over and hooks over it, closing the door. When it's in the open position, the U in the door clasp is facing OUT (open like packmans mouth) ready to clasp itself around the U on the door frame. Shoot, this is tough to explain, lol...

Let me try again --- what you need to do is pull the door handle inside of the car OPEN and at the exact same time, while the handle is pulled, put a thick/large screwdriver blade into that slot and push/pull it towards the interior of the car... It will "roll" over and be ready/positioned for regular closing.

I can't image SAFETY cops would allow a door to be designed to stay closed/locked like that for any reason unless the pull rod for the door lock at the interior door handle has broken or popped off altogether. It's an easy easy *** job to remove the door card. If the rod/cable that controls the lock is broken, well in that sense you are LUCKY it was in the open position when it broke. Jus say'n