6HP26 transmission pan gaskets?
I'm about to do a second fluid change in the ZF 6HP26 transmission on my '03 XK8. I previously installed a metal sump pan and I need a new pan gasket. I've been searching high and low for metal & rubber or Duraprene gaskets, but to no avail. I understand that some Fords, Land Rovers, and BMWs use the same pan gaskets. If anyone can recommend where I might source just the gaskets and their part numbers, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
As requested, here are all the part numbers:
This is the ZF filter part number for the steel pan:
Out of curiosity, I did some sleuthing and found this Plastic to Steel Oil Pan Conversion Kit at the ctsc's website.
They issue the following warning:
I must add, if you're going to be servicing the transmission and you haven't done so, it's a good idea while you're in there, that you also replace the following items that commonly leak or cause erratic shifting:
Mechatronic Connector Sleeve:
This is the ZF filter part number for the steel pan:
- ZF 0501 213 359
- ZF 1068 203 020
- ZF 1068 303 017
- Available here: https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil...3-x5-27-9.html
- E53: X5 4.4i SAV and X5 4.8is SAV
- E65: B7 ALPINA Sedan
- E70: X5 M SAV
- E71: X6 M SAC
- Quattroporte 4,2L V8
- Quattroporte 4,7L V8
- Quattroporte Sport GT S 4,2L V8
- Quattroporte Sport GT S 4,7L V8
- Gran Turismo Coupe 4,2L V8
- Gran Turismo Coupe 4,7L V8
- Gran Cabrio 4,7L V8
Out of curiosity, I did some sleuthing and found this Plastic to Steel Oil Pan Conversion Kit at the ctsc's website.
They issue the following warning:
Originally Posted by The CTSC
*** WHEN CONVERTING FROM A PLASTIC TO A STEEL OIL PAN THE TRANSMISSION SUMP WILL HOLD ABOUT 1 LITER LESS FLUID - YOU ALSO HAVE TO FILL THE TRANSMISSION THROUGH THE FILLER PLUG LOCATED IN THE OIL PAN, INSTEAD OF THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING. USING THE FILLER PLUG ON THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION WILL OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION AND CAUSE IRREVERSIBLE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE ***
USE OF THIS CONVERSION KIT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
USE OF THIS CONVERSION KIT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Mechatronic Connector Sleeve:
- ZF 0501 216 272
- https://www.thectsc.com/products/6-s...eeve-3-10.html
- ZF 0501 219 952
- https://www.thectsc.com/products/mec...p32-42-52.html
- ZF: 0734 317 370 01 (two of this one)
- ZF: 0734 317 371 01
- ZF: 0734 317 372 01
- https://www.thectsc.com/products/mec...p32-42-52.html
- For the plastic oil pans: https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil...pan-28-10.html
- For the Metal oil pans: https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil...pan-29-10.html
giandaniel - Thanks for that excellent reference information!
That gasket that CTSC offers <<https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-pan-gasket-bmw-e53-x5-27-9.html>> isn't Duraprene nor metal with bonded rubber edging, though. What I found, and ordered yesterday from Ford, is a BL3Z-7A191-C. It's the metal and rubber design that I was looking for.
BTW, I did replace the mechatronic connector sleeve, bridge seal adapter, and sealing sleeves, during my last servicing. The transmission has been working flawlessly ever since. Thank you for your advice.
Regarding that statement by the CTSC... "USING THE FILLER PLUG ON THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION WILL OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION AND CAUSE IRREVERSIBLE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE"; when I purchased my steel pan, I questioned them about that. Here was their reply, "The steel pan is not as deep as the plastic pan and also has a separate oil filter that takes up room in the oil pan. If the oil is warming up it expands, with less volume in the pan to expand, the fluid level can raise up to the moving parts in the transmission and generate an “oil-shake” which will cause air to be mixed with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause slippage, the oil being punched by the moving parts also generates excessive heat. Using the filler plug (overflow plug) in the steel oil pan does lower the transmission fluid level and prevents those issues". That sounded somewhat dubious. Thinking about the level of the surface of the fluid operating with the OEM plastic pan versus the same level with a steel pan, it shouldn't make any difference. Besides, I didn't like the idea of lowering the fluid level on top of using a pan that held 1L less fluid. Considering that, I refilled the 6HP26 so fluid just dripped from the side filler hole at 40 degrees C. That was 40K miles ago and I've experienced no problems since.
Regards,
That gasket that CTSC offers <<https://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-pan-gasket-bmw-e53-x5-27-9.html>> isn't Duraprene nor metal with bonded rubber edging, though. What I found, and ordered yesterday from Ford, is a BL3Z-7A191-C. It's the metal and rubber design that I was looking for.
BTW, I did replace the mechatronic connector sleeve, bridge seal adapter, and sealing sleeves, during my last servicing. The transmission has been working flawlessly ever since. Thank you for your advice.
Regarding that statement by the CTSC... "USING THE FILLER PLUG ON THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION WILL OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION AND CAUSE IRREVERSIBLE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE"; when I purchased my steel pan, I questioned them about that. Here was their reply, "The steel pan is not as deep as the plastic pan and also has a separate oil filter that takes up room in the oil pan. If the oil is warming up it expands, with less volume in the pan to expand, the fluid level can raise up to the moving parts in the transmission and generate an “oil-shake” which will cause air to be mixed with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause slippage, the oil being punched by the moving parts also generates excessive heat. Using the filler plug (overflow plug) in the steel oil pan does lower the transmission fluid level and prevents those issues". That sounded somewhat dubious. Thinking about the level of the surface of the fluid operating with the OEM plastic pan versus the same level with a steel pan, it shouldn't make any difference. Besides, I didn't like the idea of lowering the fluid level on top of using a pan that held 1L less fluid. Considering that, I refilled the 6HP26 so fluid just dripped from the side filler hole at 40 degrees C. That was 40K miles ago and I've experienced no problems since.
Regards,
Yes, this "transmission fluid expands with temperature" line needs to be put to bed. Hard to see how a minor expansion in volume can possibly figure in the working of a transmission that needs to function when the car drives severely downhill or uphill. To me, the driving factor is the change of viscosity with temperature, i.e. colder is "thicker".
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I have a Range Rover Sport with this gearbox, and I have got the steel sump - all parts (BMW) bought from ZF.
Temps must be between 35c and 50c and ideally the temp of the oil going in needs to be also. While there is not a lot of volume increase because of the temp it is measurable. When filling the engine needs to be running in gear so the oil is taken up from the sump up into the upper reaches of the gearbox, fills the torque converter and fills the cooler and its pipes. You fill until the oil comes out the filler.
When cold and not running if it has been sitting for a while, lots of oil will run out of the filler hole.
Ideally you will use a mega flush system through the oil cooler pipes to change most of the oil but it is easier to do a partial change through the filler and sump plug. I leave the car overnight so as much oil as possible will drain down to the sump - then drain when cold. I refill until the oil runs out of the filler and then start the engine for a bit and then refill. There will be enough oil in the system to lubricate everything when running at idle - I warm the entire system and recheck levels when warm as per above.
I do a basic change of oil (not a megaflush) every 20,000km (every second service). Car now has 250,000km on it with not issues from the box.
Garry
Temps must be between 35c and 50c and ideally the temp of the oil going in needs to be also. While there is not a lot of volume increase because of the temp it is measurable. When filling the engine needs to be running in gear so the oil is taken up from the sump up into the upper reaches of the gearbox, fills the torque converter and fills the cooler and its pipes. You fill until the oil comes out the filler.
When cold and not running if it has been sitting for a while, lots of oil will run out of the filler hole.
Ideally you will use a mega flush system through the oil cooler pipes to change most of the oil but it is easier to do a partial change through the filler and sump plug. I leave the car overnight so as much oil as possible will drain down to the sump - then drain when cold. I refill until the oil runs out of the filler and then start the engine for a bit and then refill. There will be enough oil in the system to lubricate everything when running at idle - I warm the entire system and recheck levels when warm as per above.
I do a basic change of oil (not a megaflush) every 20,000km (every second service). Car now has 250,000km on it with not issues from the box.
Garry
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