Hi all,

I'm going to pull the ABS module today, for performing the soldering fix on the two terminals due to ABS errors I found using iCarSoft i930 (reporting pump circuit failure.) My understanding is this is commonly due to the two main power leads losing their connectivity at the solder joints as illustrated in many threads and on jagrepair.com.

However, I don't really like the hole-saw cut, and am considering dremel cutting the seam instead. I'd like to know if others have done it this way, and if there are dangers I'm not aware of? Such as any circuitry in close proximity to the edge or other such issues that make this a bad idea?

Also, when done if others have simply plastic-welded the case back together, or if anyone has had luck building some kind of snap-together casing solution in the case future repairs would be needed... or other such brilliant ideas would be welcome!

 

I haven't done this myself, but I have in my archive a PDF I downloaded a while back from Gus's site that shows the ABS module sliced open and then resealed with RTV:-

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...aul%20Bush.pdf

Personally I would go with the hole saw, again as detailed on Jagrepair:-

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I did the seam cut - it wasn't overly difficult.

See this post of mine:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2090018

and of David Yau's:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post2422363

...but your call.

Good luck either way

 

I did it too. I just taped it together again (lazy).

That was 3 + years ago on my daily driver 2002 XKR. After 44,000 + miles in all types of weather, it seems to be holding up perfectly.

Z

 

Well *EDIT: Bending these lines out of the way without disconnecting* seems impossible.

Upon disconnecting, is there anything beyond a standard brake bleed, shortest line to longest, or is it more difficult because it's next to the ABS unit?

Rather not get into a situation where I need to send it off to the shop for brake bleeding...

 

Disregard the brake bleeding; it doesn't really matter, I'm in this far and I'll move on with it.

So here we are; Does the one pole look cracked? When removing the coating, anything more than a razor blade and steady nerves needed? (i.e. does anyone use any chemical cleaner or anything?)

For the record, I used a small dremel cutting wheel, and used roughly middle of each bolt hole as a guide to not cut past. It worked out fine, with a slow, patient and steady hand on the dremel.

Also, I can see a strip of electrical tape is all we really need, as the bolts themselves will hold in the halves tightly enough on its own.

 

Nevermind; that gel slices off pretty clean! Razor and tweezers is all I needed.

I will solder both pins, reassemble, and advise later. Thanks for all the input!

 

The left hand joint in your pics is definitely fractured.
Do them both as you state, and I would recommend the use of neutral-cure RTV over adhesive tape to ensure a good atmospheric seal.

One member reported some dubious joints on the multi-way connector, so I'd give them a good look-over while you're in there.