Hi guys,
As I battled frozen bolts and ball joints last week, I wondered about a tool I'd heard of, but knew little about: Air Hammers.

As I finished the front bearing replacement I looked at my next job, lower ball joints and bushing replacements. You've got to unscrew the lower control arms and I wondered to myself "how hard will it be to get these off?"

So I found the proper sized torx bit and gave one a try. It wouldn't move and I know it will be a figbt.

I looked into air hammers, not much written discussion, but plenty of videos. These videos show how easy it is to cut and shape metal with one. Since I won't be doing that it served as a caution - be sure to use the right attachments for the job.

There are also plenty of videos showing air hammers freeing stuck screws and bolts. Some with offset strikes to the screw or bolt head, others with a hammer like blunt face attachment striking the bolt dead on for a few seconds (shaking off rust bonds internally?), then easily removing the screw.

Well after a week or so of watching videos of folks freeing ball joints with a single whack to the knuckle, or freeing wheel hubs with a whack from a ball peen hammer, I have little faith in how realistic these videos are.

I'd sure like to learn about air hammers and how one can use them on our cars to make life easier.

If any of you are experienced, would you mind giving us a lesson? I'd sure appreciate it and I bet many others would too.

Don't forget to teach us about the proper (and improper) attachments to use. I saw a $40 Air gun in Lowes that only came with chisel type attachments. After seeing how easily these guns cut through metal, I thought it may be a big mistake to use one of them to push the upper control arm bolt out - it could destroy the bolt!

Thanks,
John

 

John, when all else fails, that is the go to tool. You can always place a plate of 1/4 inch steel between the bolt and the tool.
Most bolts that won't come out in a suspension bushing are frozen to the collar that is inside the bushing, that's why we use anti seize when putting it back, just on the bolt, not threads. That is also why a cut off tool is not the answer unless you plan to use a dremmel small cutoff wheel and cut it in half. A larger cut off tool is no good, as cutting the head or nut off flush with the arm does not get it out of the bracket, if the bolt is stuck in the bushing inside of the bracket.
When in that situation, why would you be worried about the bolt, just get a new one.

Wayne

 

Hi John, you don't need to split the arm to change the bushes, use a chisel to cut the old ones out and a clamp to push the new ones in or go poly which is easy.

 

Do you mean an impact wrench or an actual air hammer? I've never need an air hammer for anything automotive,

 

I think he does mean air hammer. But over the years I have had more success with heat. I used oxy/acetylene for many years, but I now have a MAPP rig that I found at Home Depot.
Many of the fasteners are set with blue or red locktite, and rather than applying over the top torque to break them loose, it's easy to heat either the fastener or the holder to red heat and break the bond, then use a wrench or socket.
Old school frozen fasteners have always responded to this treatment. A propane torch is not capable of supplying enough heat in a concentrated area to have the required effect.

 

Lock tight releases around 300`, actually a little less. Rust will release at red hot but it also degrades the bolt to where it'll want to shear off. Personally I don't like impacts, hammers or wrenches as they tend to bugger the head to tool fit or shear the bolt head off. Long pipe and tool control along with penetrants, patience and heat where needed tend to work much better. Knowing how to use your core muscles and locked elbows helps keep control of the tool so you don't flail and slip off the head is very important. One hand at the pivot and one at the end of the handle. Then roll your shoulders with your stomach muscles to create a ton of torque. I've seen a lot of big strong gym types who can't break bolts loose like an experienced mechanic can.

 

RJ237 is correct about the large TORX fasteners on the suspension being held by using a 'locking-compound'.

Heat will be your friend!!!!!!!

Brute force will overcome the locking compound but heat will finesse the bolt from the suspension arm.

You run the risk of damaging the fastener with force alone.

good luck

bob

 

Thanks guys. I'm glad I asked about the air hammer. I expected that it was a common tool in your arsenal. Learned a lot here.

After watching some of the on line videos I imagined attacking those torx bolts holding the lower control arm on with the hammer like bit for a few seconds, then being able to unscrew it easily (ha ha).

I think I'll refocus on a proper torch. Like you said propane is ineffective.

John

 

This is how I did mine. You need to push out (with a C clamp) or drill (round the rubber) out the centre section then hammer in a chisel.







And replace with either poly, easy, just push in by hand.



Or original metalastic, push in with a clamp.

 

Thanks Race, I'll be reverting to this for sure.

I had hoped an air hammer would solve everything.

John

 

Probably just as well. It would have made it far too easy for you to carve your car in half if frustration at seized bolts had got the better of you

 

There is a difference between an AIR HAMMER



and AIR IMPACT DRIVER


I hope we are all typing about the same thing??

bob

 

Bob, good to check. Yes I just meant a hammer. Was hoping it would make life as easy as the air impact driver does.

Michaelh, that was a good one. Thanks for the laugh!

John

 

Sorry, John - couldn't resist.
It's fighting you all the way. Some jobs are just like that <sigh>

 

I bought a set similar to this one, that way I always have more tool than I need.

 

I'm very old school here. WD-40 and wait a few or a lot of minutes. Try an air impact wrench. Try a manual impact wrench with a large hammer. Try some heat. But the best old technique that works for me is to use the most foul language I can think of (I'm a trucker so it's very creative) and threaten to turn the whole car into an ashtray. Have 3 beers and

 

I'm very old school here. WD-40 and wait a few or a lot of minutes. Try an air impact wrench. Try a manual impact wrench with a large hammer. Try some heat. But the best old technique that works for me is to use the most foul language I can think of (I'm a trucker so it's very creative) and threaten to turn the whole car into an ashtray. Have 3 beers and things then work fine.

 

Sorry for the doubled post. Using my phone and a text popped up and the incomplete first got sent unknown to me.