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Camber, Caster, toe, diagrams on what to Adjust and calc. Just lowered my 2005
Hello again, I just lowered my 2005 with Mina springs, new dampeners and shock mounts. Off to the alignment shop to get everything back. Drove the car some to get everything settled. Indexed the shock again to center everything up and re-checked all the torques. I will say, I'm new to this car and it it much more trouble than any other car I have lowered or changed springs out. But it's a love affair so here I am.
Here is my alignment before and after. Rather surprised the after rear camber changed so much after the shop only adjusted rear toe. All else was fine. Also glad that the caster on front was good, got the shims right. Small miracles.
Starting with the fronts all is good. I'm not going to stress over .1 toe. Here are the adjustment points for those interested.
And for the rears
Now for the math.
I have found in this long, detailed and extensive post two different methods to calculate size of shims needed to correct my rear. Assuming the post reading are correct here is the math. I'll explain further in the post. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...wering-253643/
I want to target -1.0 degrees in the rear. The top of the spec is -0.9 but for this exercise -1.0. The reason I want more negative is I plan on autocrossing and or tracking the car lightly. More negative in the rear is my experience on other tracked cars. SO I'm starting there.
the two methods are
movement of .22 degrees equals .5mm spacing.
so the equation is (amount of angle I want to move in the positive direction) / .22 = multiplied by .5 = spacer needed in mms
The other is just as straight forward
130 sin (of the amount of angle you want to change) = spacer needed in mms
So my two as I calculate it both methods is
Left is at -3.0 degrees, my target is -1.0 so a -2.0 degree delta
method one 2.0 / .22 = 9.09 x .5 = 4.545 mm shim
method two 130 sin 2.0 degrees = 4.536 mm shim
Right is at -1.9 target is -1.0 so a .9 degree delta
method one .9 / .22 = 4.090 x .5 = 2.045 mm shim
method two 130 sin .9 degrees = 2.042 mm shim
Both methods are in line with each other. Knowing that I am on the negative side of target depending on what is out there I will err on the larger side shim and not smaller..
Shim diagram item 2
I do not feel the measurements for the left are accurate. I cannot imagine it changed that much. I made my own digital camber tool with piece of angle steel and a digital level. My numbers match with the other 3 on the the alignment but the left I measure -2.2 degrees and not -3.0.
Sending it back to recheck before I order.
I hope this helps. I'll keep all posted. Any math challenges, comedic and snide remarks welcomed.
Hello again, I just lowered my 2005 with Mina springs, new dampeners and shock mounts. Off to the alignment shop to get everything back. Drove the car some to get everything settled. Indexed the shock again to center everything up and re-checked all the torques. I will say, I'm new to this car and it it much more trouble than any other car I have lowered or changed springs out. But it's a love affair so here I am......
....Any math challenges, comedic and snide remarks welcomed.
Cheers Mike
I have a vision after reading this, and l see URO top mounts.
Recentreing dampers should not be necessary, with a decent mount nothing should move off centre, ever, and certainly not after a short drive.
The solutions developed with help of this forum are out there for the asking.
I could not tell if your camber angle iron tool has dedicated points that contact the rim rather than bearing on the tire rubber. (I favor contacting the rim or hub)
I could not tell if your camber angle iron tool has dedicated points that contact the rim rather than bearing on the tire rubber. (I favor contacting the rim or hub)
The tool does only touch the rim and not the tire. The L shape iron allows me to make sure the up and down is centered and then move it to camber so not to be out of vertical. Not perfect but should get me at least within .2degrees. Thank you for the links.
I have a vision after reading this, and l see URO top mounts.
Recentreing dampers should not be necessary, with a decent mount nothing should move off center, ever, and certainly not after a short drive.
The solutions developed with help of this forum are out there for the asking.
You are correct. The summit racing mounts were URO after digging into info, not exactly as advertised. I didn't give the car an easy drive. A mid speed slalom and two high speed radiuses wanted to set the suspension. Found the weak link I suppose. Saved to old cores for just the solution you mentioned moving forward. Glad to be a part of this forum.
Cheers, Mike
Here's a slightly off-topic question Mike, but one which I'm sure has occurred to many Brits.
Do American students study "mathematics" or "mathematic" at university?
Richard
Both, why do you ask? Most commonly mathematics are only studied at university is you area of focus has a math component. Engineering would of course or accounting but English most likely would not. Mathematics like Geometry, trigonometry, general equations are studied in grade school. At least in my generation of old guys.
Both, why do you ask? Most commonly mathematics are only studied at university is you area of focus has a math component. Engineering would of course or accounting but English most likely would not. Mathematics like Geometry, trigonometry, general equations are studied in grade school. At least in my generation of old guys.
Cheers, Mike
In that case, it seems to be the same as the UK. We would say "I obtained a university degree in mathematics" which is plural and which we would abbreviate to "maths" in that and all other circumstances. I thought that perhaps you didn't used the plural version but that's clearly not the explanation for the difference.
Any math challenges, comedic and snide remarks welcomed.
Cheers Mike
Mike, this is a little math challenge I throw out on occasion:
An employer offers me an annual salary of $100,000 with an increase of $20,000 each year thereafter for 20 years.
On second thought, the employer offers me a choice of either the original offer, or a second offer of a quarterly (3 months) salary of $25,000 with an increase of $1,250 each quarter thereafter for 20 years.
For either offer, the employer is willing to payout my earnings worked to my liking such as weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, and etc.
Mike, this is a little math challenge I throw out on occasion:
An employer offers me an annual salary of $100,000 with an increase of $20,000 each year thereafter for 20 years.
On second thought, the employer offers me a choice of either the original offer, or a second offer of a quarterly (3 months) salary of $25,000 with an increase of $1,250 each quarter thereafter for 20 years.
For either offer, the employer is willing to payout my earnings worked to my liking such as weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, and etc.
Should I choose the annual or quarterly offer?
I guess about everyone by now has figured out that the quarterly choice is best financially since it yields an extra $7,500 every year over the annual choice. For the whole 20 years (7500 X 20), I would be $150,000 ahead by choosing quarterly.