Perhaps someone can kindly assist with my (2005) clock issue. The clock is still running, but loses time at the rate of about 3 minutes / hr. 68k on the odometer. Clock only just started misbehaving. I haven't found anything on the forum about repairing the clock, which is a little surprising. As a matter of fact, I also didn't find anything specific on replacing it (assuming that a decent non-OEM item can be found - I can only imagine how much that would cost!), although removing the minor instrument panel dash is well covered. I don't want to buy the whole panel from a breaker's yard - aside of the fact that my other gauges work fine - because the replacement "pre-owned" clock will likely be older that the existing one. Also, I note that most sources seem to state 199x - 2003. Why that would be so I don't know, but perhaps someone can comment on that. So, my preference is to fix the clock I have: it is obviously a dual stepper motor device, and it is still a-steppin', just not quickly enough! Thanks!

 

The clock, oil pressure and voltmeter is a 3-gauge cluster unit that shares common circuitry and not replaceable separately.
My company sells refurbished 3-gauge clusters (see https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xk8--...onversion.html) with a 1 year warranty.
You can also get also a used but not refurbished one on eBay (search for Jaguar XK8 clock on eBay).
All years are fully interchangeable, but pre-2003 units will have black instead of chrome dial centers. The 2003 and later ones with the chrome centers are difficult to find, but the black one looks just fine to most people.

 

It's very easy to remove/replace the minor instrument cluster - on my 2001 the wood dashboard pulls off, then you can unscrew and unplug the gauge cluster.

Once you have it out of the car you could try taking the back off the gauge cluster (held in place with torx screws) and see what you can clean inside, perhaps spray the inside of the clock with contact cleaner. If you can't fix it, second hand ones are plentiful on ebay.

Removal instructions courtesy of GGG:-

1. disconnect the battery ground cable (not essential but safer when working on the electrics.

2. remove the Centre Veneer Panel:



This is secured with four spring clips. To release it, gently prise the bottom out with a thin plastic or wooden spatula and then pull to release from the top two clips. Watch the clips - they have teeth like a rabid dog!

3. remove the four gauge module screws:



4. disconnect the harness connector

 

Thanks very much for that input guys!
I note that some sellers on eBay offer individual clock modules, although the ones I saw might be from an XJ of the same vintage, but it does rather look from that as though there is an actual clock mechanism, even if it shares circuitry with the other gauges, no?

 

The individual clock modules for an XJ will not fit the XK8/R. The clock and each gauge is an individual stepper motor in the 3-gauge assembly. There is electronics for all three are on the same printed circuit board. The slow clock is likely due to a bad crystal. If you are skilled in electronics repair at the printed circuit board level it probably could be replaced. Probably not worth the trouble though.

 

Thanks for the information, WhiteXKR. As it happens, I do have some expertise with electronics (not very current, admittedly) and discrete component replacement. I may well have a clock crystal in my parts bin - as long as Jag didn't use something bizarre - so I'll look at the situation when I remove the module. Otherwise, I'll be in touch about a replacement. As you were talking about refurbishment of 'pre-owned' assemblies, can I get my own unit refurbished and returned? Thanks!

 

As I went though Steve's (WhiteXKR) website yesterday, it did occur to me that was the only option combination not listed.

Graham

 

Yes, I can refurbish yours. Same price as buying one refurbished since I would likely have to gut a used one for parts. And you get it tested, cleaned, polished lens and new bulbs and a 1-year guarantee.

It might not be a bad choice since I currently do not have a 2003 or later style silver needle hub one in stock.

 

Understood, and thanks.!

 

In pursuit of my slowing car clock, and there seems to be very little information on the subject. I am hoping someone can fill in a few blanks. The clock not only slows appreciably when parked and on a battery tender, but it also does so on a trip. All other electrical aspects of the car are functioning properly. I matched the movement of the clock using a phone, and it appeared that one of the 60 clicks didn't produce a movement. This is a very tedious test, and I could have missed something. I then pulled the module and stripped it as far as removing screws were concerned. No sign of any connector problem or damage. The three gauges appear twist / locked in place. It seems that the pointers would have to come off from the front, but there is a lens over the front that appears glued on.
First, being a 2005, the gauges have chrome centered pointers which, I am guessing, came about together with the polished instrument rings. That could have been MY 2003. I note that the suffix of the LJP4310 can be AA or AB.
Question: is there any difference between the minor instrument module of any MY, other than for this cosmetic chrome pointer difference? If not, then an older module from a salvage yard could substitute.
Obviously, a non-chrome module will be even older than my 2005 (65 k) and of unknown mileage or history. Also, a breaker isn't going to be able to test and certify. My module is in perfect condition, so although the black pointers aren't that big of a deal, in themselves, the age and condition is. My preference would have been to get a module with a working clock, dismantle both to swap out the clocks (exchanging the pointers, as they have to get pulled off - after figuring out how to get the front lens off).
Question: I note that some 'eBay modules' have Ford stickers on the back of them; mine has another manufacturer entirely.
Any quidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

If yours is in great cosmetic condition, the simplest approach may very well be to swap circuit boards from another triple gauge module. The circuit boards are plug and play when you unscrew the rear panel of the cluster. Any model year will do.

The differences in part numbers are explained in my article here: https://www.jcna.com/sites/default/f...Jun%202017.pdf

(Just a note on forum etiquette: Do not open new threads on the same topic you opened last month. The moderator may decide to combine them).

 

Thanks for that:
As far as I can tell, the problem seems less likely to lie with the circuit board, and more with something inside the clock itself.
I can see / hear / count the minute hand pulses and, until the moment I thought I had missed the movement to go along with the sound, the sounds were in step with the phone's stopwatch. The problem feels more like, for example, a missing tooth than anything to do with the crystal oscillator and stepper motor driver.
I did an investigation of all the components whose detail I could read, and could find absolutely nothing on anything. The designers / manufacturers did a very thorough job of protecting their intellectual property rights. As such, it won't do much good for me to haul my rather bulky o'scope into the car to uncover, say, the crystal frequency, and from there maybe figure out the flip/flop chip that is being used, except to confirm that the stepper is being told what to do correctly. The stepper, when used for setting the clock works fine, and I assume there is only one motor doing all the work.