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Doesn't look like coaxial cable to me. Looks like a "twisted pair" set of wires. Looks like the wires might be stranded wires, but can't tell for sure in your image.
Please post more details of where the wires go in the car. Are they CAN or network wires, speaker wires, signal wires or power wires.
This looks like 1 orange wire, one blue wire, a silver sheath, two string like spacers.
If I were to spice this, I'd unfurl the sheath , it will cover the soldered spliced red and blue wires.
Slip a shrink wrap on the outside of both wires (1 shrink wrap on each side of the cut wire), slide it well out of the way. One piece of shrink wrap is likely to be sacrificed, that's ok. Strip a small length of red and blue sheath off all 4 ends, try 1/8th inch.
Slip a thin piece of shrink wrap on the longer of the red wires, one on the longer of the blue wires.
How long is the shrink wrap? Hold the splices together as they will look when finished soldering. Make the shrink wrap a bit longer than the length of the bare copper wire. Iow it overlaps the red/blue sheath on both sides when you slide it on.
***note: the heat from the soldering iron will shrink the shrink wrap before it's in place if it's too close. If you dont have much room, shield the wrap with aluminum foil wad.
Solder the bare wire as follows. Lie the bare wire end to end on top of each other (each of the 2 wires to be soldered points in the opposite direction so finished solder joint is a smooth continuous wire). Right now the end of each bare wire touches the start of the other wire's insulation. Move these wires closer to each other, ends of each bare wire extends over the other wire's insulation (twisting connection together will use up the overhang). Add a dab of rosin (careful: use electrical solder rosin, not plumbing rosin!). Twist the wires together. Forefinger and thumb on each side. Twist each hand in opposite direction. Touch the junction with a hot soldering iron that is pre-tinned. The rosin will clean boil and evaporate almost instantly. At the same time the solder will coat the connection.
Let it cool a bit (can't slide the shrink wrap yet it will shrink too fast to get on). Slide the shrink wrap on. Just leave it alone. If you chose the right size wrap it will stay in place.
Solder the other 3 connections same way.
Now shrink all 4 of these with a hot air gun, or with proximity to a hot soldering iron.
Now that all circuit's bare wire is insulated, we will spread the silver sheathing to cover the 4 connections just made.solder 1 or 2 or 3 points to connect the sheaths to each other. (Congratulations you just made your 1st Faraday cage - Tesla would be jealous [nerd humor]).
As you can imagine we are going to slide and shrink one of the remaining shrink wraps over this connection to make it weather tight.
Now you have one unused shrink wrap left. We made weatherproof electric connections. Let's eliminate mechanical stress. If this connection end to end is 1 1/2 inches long, can you grab a thin wood dowel (or something)? If so cut the dowel to 2 inches long. Lie it along the last shrink wrap. Now slide the remaining piece of shrink wrap over it. I bet you see where I'm headed. Heat the last piece of shrink wrap and your connection is protected from pulling or bending by the dowel.
Hope this helps. If you were dealing with radio frequency or sensitive audio, I'd have asked you to leave a wire, one end soldered to the shield, the other end exposed, to solder it to a metal box enclosure for the connection.
Actually I'm wondering to myself why it's even using a shielded wire.
Does the bare 'sheild' play a vital role in its function, you think? I get very very low values coming from the differential placed sensor. Looks like an abs sensor. Shimmed into the back of the differential of a 1990 Jaguar XJS... Been doing the brakes and other stuff. The SpeedO never worked and I am trying to sort it... I can give more info if that helps...?
theres the ol girl
J, I don't know why its sheathed, but there must be a reason. At least it will likely carry the circuits ground path. A shield like this sheath typically protects the red and blue wires' signal from nearby high frequency signals or radio frequency interference.
BTW, that was a really nice thank you-- you made my day.
I'm too far removed from the circuit to speculate further, sorry 3J. (Or is it J3? ;-) ha ha)
07-15-2019, 01:59 PM
