When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently got a flat on my xkr. I have the Detroit wheels. On a side note my rubber split near the lip of the rim and the air came out. Fairly new continentals....UGGGGG
ANYWAY what a PIA to change.
While pulling off teh rim one of my lug nuts seemed a bit messed up and I barely got it off. Id like to change them all out for solid aftermarket ones like i did on my xjr with sepangs.
Can anyone tell me what I need to purchase? Many Thanks
If the Detroit wheels used the typical XK8 factory lugs then yes those will work fine.
Perhaps somebody with Detroit can verify what those wheels came with.
Yes, the lug nuts in the wheels have the tip capped. I'm pretty sure they're the original ones that came with the bbs wheel 20" Detroit style. After a trip to the shop, some mechanic using an hydraulic impact wrench wedged the nut. It now turns without unscrewing. My first challenge will be to remove the stuck nut. Tried a deep socket 24mm, breaker bar, pb blaster, nothing works. I decided to go to the shop and leave it to them, but needs the new lug nuts first.
By the way, is it safe that I now have one side with a new rotor new pads and the other side with an older set? It's a front axle. Since I couldn't get the wheel off because of the stuck nut, I wonder if it's safe to drive the 6 miles to the shop...
Anyone opinion on that?
Thanks a lot.
About the brakes, you shouldn't have any mechanical issues with one side having less wear. The hydraulics will adjust for that. You might get some pull in that direction but minor if at all.
About the stuck/spinning lug, if it is the cap that is spinning you can split the outer tin cap and remove it to get to a steel nut underneath. Obviously you will need a smaller socket but its a common size. I had one get stuck like that many years ago. Since then I always convert to solid lugs asap.
Seems like the lugs I used should work for you too.
About the brakes, you shouldn't have any mechanical issues with one side having less wear. The hydraulics will adjust for that. You might get some pull in that direction but minor if at all.
About the stuck/spinning lug, if it is the cap that is spinning you can split the outer tin cap and remove it to get to a steel nut underneath. Obviously you will need a smaller socket but its a common size. I had one get stuck like that many years ago. Since then I always convert to solid lugs asap.
Seems like the lugs I used should work for you too.
The ones you used, you mean the adamesh? My only concern is the 1/16th shorter length you mentioned about. Are there any other lug nuts out there that are 100% same lug nuts as ours length,t and width, but without the stupid cap?
Just to clarify, I understand removing the cap off the lug nut. It would provide better access for the smaller wrench, better sitting, am I understanding correctly? The main issue seems to be that the wrench won't go all the way with the messed up caps. So I guess that's way to try. Although I'm concerned that the nut guy tighten too much and that even with the cap removed, that's going to be stuck. I was thinking maybe going to a stop where they'd have a powerful impact wrench. At this point I'm concerned about the studs as well.
Thanks very much.
The ones you used, you mean the adamesh? My only concern is the 1/16th shorter length you mentioned about. Are there any other lug nuts out there that are 100% same lug nuts as ours length,t and width, but without the stupid cap?
Just to clarify, I understand removing the cap off the lug nut. It would provide better access for the smaller wrench, better sitting, am I understanding correctly? The main issue seems to be that the wrench won't go all the way with the messed up caps. So I guess that's way to try. Although I'm concerned that the nut guy tighten too much and that even with the cap removed, that's going to be stuck. I was thinking maybe going to a stop where they'd have a powerful impact wrench. At this point I'm concerned about the studs as well.
Thanks very much.
Since our wheels are center located the 1/16" difference in length is not a concern. There is still plenty of thread in them to hold the wheel correctly. The Adamesh ones are not the shorter ones. Adamsh lugs are same as OEM dimensions, just they are not as pretty. The pretty ones from Lug Nut King are the shorter ones that I used most recently and I was replacing a set of Adamesh lugs that had aged and were ugly even though they worked perfect. I think the Adamesh ones would detract from the beauty of the Detroits.
Those OEM lugs are so fragile that I really doubt the interior lug is so tight it will be a problem. You just need to take a small sharp chisel to it and split it down one side so you can pry it off the interior steel lug.
Thank you all! Great advices. Really helps!
Anybody by any chance have the specs for the 20" bbs wheel lug nuts? Like length, width, thread etc?
I found these guys (see link below) on Amazon but it doesn't say if it would fit these tires..
Gorilla Automotive 41187B Acorn Bulge Seat Lug Nuts (1/2" Threads)
Thank you all! Great advices. Really helps!
Anybody by any chance have the specs for the 20" bbs wheel lug nuts? Like length, width, thread etc?
I found these guys (see link below) on Amazon but it doesn't say if it would fit these tires..
Gorilla Automotive 41187B Acorn Bulge Seat Lug Nuts (1/2" Threads)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0A668..._.HjtEbMTW806N
Those won't work. Wrong style mating surface. You can't use conical stle. You need flat washer style 1/2 20 thread.
Alexander,<br /><br />First, you need to buy BBS Replacement Parts for those "Detroit Lug Nuts that were damaged...There's nothing wrong with the covered Lug-Nuts as long as you don't torque them over 75lbs. If the Tire-Guy has screwed the Goose with his Power-Tool..He should buy you new ones, that is if you told him how much Torque to use before they started.....Anyway, they are screwed-up now, so let's get some new ones....Go to one of the BBS Stores on the Net.: https://www.xk8-parts.com/contact-us/ or https://www.sbwheels.store/ Either of those Internet Stores will have everything BBS that you would ever need...…<br /><br />I have 20" BBS "Montreal" Wheels and my Lug-Nuts are the covered ones and of course one of the Five is a Lock-Nut....That's why I still have BBS Wheels.....Just a piece of advice for you!<br /><br />Billy Clyde in Houston
Alexander,<br /><br />First, you need to buy BBS Replacement Parts for those "Detroit Lug Nuts that were damaged...There's nothing wrong with the covered Lug-Nuts as long as you don't torque them over 75lbs. If the Tire-Guy has screwed the Goose with his Power-Tool..He should buy you new ones, that is if you told him how much Torque to use before they started.....Anyway, they are screwed-up now, so let's get some new ones....Go to one of the BBS Stores on the Net.: https://www.xk8-parts.com/contact-us/ or https://www.sbwheels.store/ Either of those Internet Stores will have everything BBS that you would ever need...…<br /><br />I have 20" BBS "Montreal" Wheels and my Lug-Nuts are the covered ones and of course one of the Five is a Lock-Nut....That's why I still have BBS Wheels.....Just a piece of advice for you!<br /><br />Billy Clyde in Houston
Hi,
Jtis states to tighten the nuts on the wheels at 102nm or 75flbs. Is that the same for all wheels including non 20" bbs?
Also, I know I'm off topic but anybody has the torque specs for front outer tie rod end ? Pretty please couldn't find it in the jtis software.
Thanks
Last edited by alexander thegreat; Feb 21, 2020 at 05:31 PM.
Hi,
Jtis states to tighten the nuts on the wheels at 102nm or 75flbs. Is that the same for all wheels including non 20" bbs?
Also, I know I'm off topic but anybody has the torque specs for front outer tie rod end ? Pretty please couldn't find it in the jtis software.
Thanks
Since there is only one spec in the manual for wheel lugs I would believe it is same for BBS wheels.
From the PDF repair manual:
Outer Tie Rod End Securing Nut 71-85nm
Outer Tie Rod End Jam Nut 71-85nm