Why is my 06 xkr telling me this? How do I get the car to stop saying that?

 

Start by cleaning your ABS sensors, since they tie into the DSC. Lots of info and FAQs on the subject on this forum.
Alfred

 

This is a recurring PITA with these cars, I'm afraid. Causes are well known, but figuring out which one it is, for those of us without a high-end scanner, is not so easy.

Panther, I have a couple of half-baked ideas on trying different tests to smoke out the cause(s) when a warning pops up, so if you like we can use your warning event to try these out.

First test: start the car but do not put it in gear. Does the warning appear? (Ignore the "ABS" icon in the tach; it could be a leftover from a previous event. Look only for the "ASC not available / TRAC not available" readouts within the speedo.)

If no warning appears, the system has passed its "static" tests. Dirty sensors could still be be a problem, but I'm about 1/2 sure the cold solder joint problem in the ABS box (another common bug) can be ruled out.

If a warnig does appear we have either the ABS box problem, or a bad sensor, or a full time (as opposed to intermittent) wiring flaw. Dirty sensors can be ruled out (or, strictly speaking, at least we know there is another problem as well since dirty sensors can't create a "static" error).

Let us know what happens, and we can move on to other tests.

 

Alright... When I put the key in, turn it all the way without ignition, it says it's doing a system check. Nothing appears, as soon as I turn the key to start the car, DSC system fault pops up. The DSC button doesn't respond when I click it.

 

Panther,

OK, this is not dirty sensors. The problem they can create won't happen until the road wheels are turning.

With the car at rest, I think the system is capable of testing for these conditions:
1) a problem in the ABS module (that Black Box, left side of engine compartment, with hydraulic lines leading off to the four wheels)
2) a short circuit or open circuit in each of the four wire pairs that lead out to the four wheel sensors.

It's possible to test 2) manually, if you have an ohm meter, by opening the big 25-pin connector next to the ABS module and probing some pins there. If you want to try this, let us know and I'll look up the post that says how.

If that test comes up dry, I think it's probably the ABS module. That too can be worked on, but it's more involved, and usually involves re-soldering an internal connection.

Good luck,

 

I forgot this ...

One easy thing to try that is the source of trouble quite often. The front wheel sensors: there is an electrical connector right there at each sensor.

Turn the steering wheel full-lock to the right, and you can easily get at this connector on the right front wheel. Open it, spray contact cleaner on each half, let it dry, reconnect (seating if firmly). Same with the left, of course.

Maybe try this first since it's so easy.

 

Take a moment and read this post I think it will help and give you an idea of what is being suggested to do https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=37907 Hope this helps!

 

Black Panther: You're been given all the best information. Can you please have the OBDII problem code read? Autozone or Advance Auto Parts can do that for you in just 5 minutes.

 

Try this link for the OBD II tool https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=33347

 

I always forget this is out there. Can they read all the relevant Jaguar codes here, do you know?

The codes might not be unambiguous in pinning down the actual fault (they say things like "sensor failure" or "no signal"; not "dirty sensors" or "loose connector") but they will probably tell us if its an "ABS box" or a "sensor" issue and, if the latter, which wheel.

 

The ABS codes won't be revealed with the general scanners out there, including what Autozone and other parts stores have. Engine and Tranny codes are the most probable using a sub$125 scanner. If you want more of the advanced codes, you'll need to spend $500 at least.

 

Go to a reputable auto repair shop to read the additional codes if purchasing is out of the question.

 

Having the codes would be good, but I think we can get there without them if need be. At least that has worked out so far in my limited experience.

For Panther's case, we've eliminated dirty sensors. If reseating the front sensors does not help (that's a shot in the dark, but an easy one, so worth a try) then the next step is to sort out a sensors & wiring problem from an ABS box problem. Measuring resistance to each wheel sensor should do that, if Panther is in a position to do the measurements.

 

This might help in your troubleshooting http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...heet%20XK8.pdf Good Luck!

 

That is a terrific schematic. Very clear.

One head-scratcher: it calls for ~ 2k ohms as the nominal sensor resistance. I've measured a few cars, and these have shown ~ 1K ohm (each was MY 2000 or later, I think). An MY difference maybe.

In practice, if all four sensors measure about the same, it's probably a reasonable assumption that they're good.