Engine Failsafe Mode
#1
Engine Failsafe Mode
Hey guys, jacked the cat up, changed the oil and filter, replaced the fuel filter 3 weeks ago.
Anytime while driving exactly after 21 mins exactly, I get the amber engine fail safe mode,and no cruise control
The car drives and works perfectly fine,engine purrs like a kitten. No codes from the ecm at all.
Ive renewed plugs,coil packs,air filter, this light is embarrassing, I was refused valet service over this for insurance reasons for Jaguars,the valet said another jaguar had the same thing happen and it caused over acceleration and a crash last year.
Anytime while driving exactly after 21 mins exactly, I get the amber engine fail safe mode,and no cruise control
The car drives and works perfectly fine,engine purrs like a kitten. No codes from the ecm at all.
Ive renewed plugs,coil packs,air filter, this light is embarrassing, I was refused valet service over this for insurance reasons for Jaguars,the valet said another jaguar had the same thing happen and it caused over acceleration and a crash last year.
Last edited by aode06; 04-12-2015 at 08:40 PM.
#2
#3
#6
I went to the local dealership this morning, their scanner shows NO CODES engine, tcm, or anything ! No misfires, fuel issues,all fluids level, no overheating or anything.
What a waste of $174.00, and further diagnosis would be hour by hour, but suggested I continue driving the car and the problem "might reveal itself or simply go away ".
This light is embarrassing, and I get that chime to remind me its there.
What a waste of $174.00, and further diagnosis would be hour by hour, but suggested I continue driving the car and the problem "might reveal itself or simply go away ".
This light is embarrassing, and I get that chime to remind me its there.
Last edited by aode06; 04-13-2015 at 07:38 AM.
#7
Ok so lets start listing the sequence of events, i know u listed them above but please be specific
Did it run fine, no CEL before you did plugs etc?
once the light comes on (21 mins) you then turn car off at some point, when you restart the car is the light on / off ? Or do you reset it.
Please list any common sequence (driving same pattern or whatever) you can.
If it's almost exactly 21 mins it sounds like a internal diag fail ie tries 1-2 times when not reaching proper operation it throws a light.
I take it you've drove the car easy and somewhat hard in multi 21 mins failures, this then throws many variables out, fuel comsumption/rpm and some engine monitoring?
from jtis
If any warning lights and/or messages were displayed when the fault occurred, refer to the Driver Information table for DTCs associated with the display, then to the DTC index table for possible sources and actions. Some warnings will appear to clear when the ignition is cycled. This is often because the warning has flagged as a result of one of the vehicle's on-board diagnostic routines having run to detect the fault. If the same routine is not run when the ignition is switched ON, the warning will not reflag until the routine does run. See the DTC summaries for drive cycle routines.
Did it run fine, no CEL before you did plugs etc?
once the light comes on (21 mins) you then turn car off at some point, when you restart the car is the light on / off ? Or do you reset it.
Please list any common sequence (driving same pattern or whatever) you can.
If it's almost exactly 21 mins it sounds like a internal diag fail ie tries 1-2 times when not reaching proper operation it throws a light.
I take it you've drove the car easy and somewhat hard in multi 21 mins failures, this then throws many variables out, fuel comsumption/rpm and some engine monitoring?
from jtis
If any warning lights and/or messages were displayed when the fault occurred, refer to the Driver Information table for DTCs associated with the display, then to the DTC index table for possible sources and actions. Some warnings will appear to clear when the ignition is cycled. This is often because the warning has flagged as a result of one of the vehicle's on-board diagnostic routines having run to detect the fault. If the same routine is not run when the ignition is switched ON, the warning will not reflag until the routine does run. See the DTC summaries for drive cycle routines.
Last edited by jamdmyers; 04-13-2015 at 08:08 AM. Reason: jtis
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#8
Now im getting engine failsafe, gearbox fault, incorrect gear ratio,traction not available, stability control not available, I have no cruise either, I just went back to the dealer to scan again "free" no codes,21 MINS OUT THE BOX NOW. It comes on when warm.
The car runs fine,VERY POWERFUL I swear, I did not touch anything mechanical, just change the oil and fuel filter.
It does this only when it comes to operating temp.
When I arm my alarm,the brake lights are not in sequence are something weird I noticed, Im going out now to check my brake lenses for water and my bulbs, something is not right with them.
The car runs fine,VERY POWERFUL I swear, I did not touch anything mechanical, just change the oil and fuel filter.
It does this only when it comes to operating temp.
When I arm my alarm,the brake lights are not in sequence are something weird I noticed, Im going out now to check my brake lenses for water and my bulbs, something is not right with them.
#9
#10
Nothing is coming on now, it said the full messages on the dash. As this issue started, my brake lights are doing weird things, when I activated the alarm. I think the issue also has to do with me slowing down.
So far I have found a blown rear bumper side marker bulb, and checking the operation of all my lights, including the brake lights.
So far I have found a blown rear bumper side marker bulb, and checking the operation of all my lights, including the brake lights.
#11
The following 2 users liked this post by motorcarman:
cjd777 (04-14-2015),
Wannabeted (06-08-2015)
#12
The cruise/traction control will be disabled for a number of reasons, I agree with Dave it maybe the brake switch, when they fail the symptoms are often vague. And this would do the above, why at 21 mins I don't know. If you can get the car up you may want to check the transmission electrical plug to ensure it's locked (actually make sure there is not seepage of fluid around it, this can wick into the harness and cause problems and this is known to leak at some point on the NAG1) as the fluid heats it 'rises' and could cause a problem in the harness.. but keep in mind this is only a swag.
Checking the TSB would be good as well as all ground points (I'd never discount what Motorcarman has to say as he's very experienced and provides good advice.
It sounds like something in the transmission power train sensing system and interlocks (which there are many). Have you tried running with the shifter in the manual jgate position ? Just another guess if it's a intermittent sensor.
Checking the TSB would be good as well as all ground points (I'd never discount what Motorcarman has to say as he's very experienced and provides good advice.
It sounds like something in the transmission power train sensing system and interlocks (which there are many). Have you tried running with the shifter in the manual jgate position ? Just another guess if it's a intermittent sensor.
#13
Thanks,
here is what I found, my driver side brake light had the elements burning and the bulb and base separating causing arcing when voltage applied, even though the bulb works.
This event has also caused minor tarnish on the contact pad, im scuffing off now and installing a new bulb and driving again.A local indie also told me, this may have damaged my brake light switch on the pedal.
Autozone says my bulb is a 7528, but the bulbs in there now are not of this design, the 7528 has two contact pins ot the base, mine has one. So i am finding another bulb that looks like the ones I am removing.
here is what I found, my driver side brake light had the elements burning and the bulb and base separating causing arcing when voltage applied, even though the bulb works.
This event has also caused minor tarnish on the contact pad, im scuffing off now and installing a new bulb and driving again.A local indie also told me, this may have damaged my brake light switch on the pedal.
Autozone says my bulb is a 7528, but the bulbs in there now are not of this design, the 7528 has two contact pins ot the base, mine has one. So i am finding another bulb that looks like the ones I am removing.
#14
Ok the new bulbs are in, and so far no engine fail safe mode,or traction/abs/gearbox fault etc showing on the dash and when I arm or disarm my alarm, all lights glow equally with each other.
Apparently, a shorting brake bulb does something to the brake light switch circuit.
If it returns I will perform the brake light switch repair and keep you guys updated.
I told Jaguar about that tsb, they said their scanner would of picked up that can fault as they drove the car with it in there while the lights were on.But if I have that issue, I will receive a discount on the part and odometer programming.
Apparently, a shorting brake bulb does something to the brake light switch circuit.
If it returns I will perform the brake light switch repair and keep you guys updated.
I told Jaguar about that tsb, they said their scanner would of picked up that can fault as they drove the car with it in there while the lights were on.But if I have that issue, I will receive a discount on the part and odometer programming.
Last edited by aode06; 04-14-2015 at 07:50 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by aode06:
#15
Ok, installing the two new light bulbs have resolved all the codes except engine failsafe mode.
So apparently this shorting light bulb appears to have damaged my brake light switch. I have looked under the dash, this thing is a beast to get to. Ill have to remove my seat to get some what comfortable to remove it.
So apparently this shorting light bulb appears to have damaged my brake light switch. I have looked under the dash, this thing is a beast to get to. Ill have to remove my seat to get some what comfortable to remove it.
The following users liked this post:
jamdmyers (04-16-2015)
#16
why does ebay have the part new from $140-$200, but advance auto parts only has it new for $70 ?????????????????????????????????
BWD/Intermotor Cruise Control Release Switch S42008: Advance Auto Parts
its called cruise control release switch
BWD/Intermotor Cruise Control Release Switch S42008: Advance Auto Parts
its called cruise control release switch
#17
Join Date: Apr 2012
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#18
The pic shows four lead, I think all cruise cars are 4 lead, non cruise 2 lead?
Why is the price so cheap? But triple or double elsewhere
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...9-P#fragment-1
Why is the price so cheap? But triple or double elsewhere
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...9-P#fragment-1
Last edited by aode06; 04-16-2015 at 09:11 AM.
#19
looks like S42007 is the unit for me as it has a very short cord.
S42007 $140-$200
S42008 $70-$98
Cost way more as well. Both S42007 and S42008 have 4 terminals. 2 for cruise on off, 2 for brake light, on off.
s2008 is cheaper and available, it has a longer cord. I may just order this one lol
S42007 $140-$200
S42008 $70-$98
Cost way more as well. Both S42007 and S42008 have 4 terminals. 2 for cruise on off, 2 for brake light, on off.
s2008 is cheaper and available, it has a longer cord. I may just order this one lol
Last edited by aode06; 04-16-2015 at 09:25 AM.
#20