I had wanted to swap my 2005 XKR’s coil covers for Paragon Modifications’ red alloy coil pack covers with the “ – R – “ performance logo (see photo). Two things stood in my way, however. First was cost: £400 (approximately $540) per pair. Second, and more importantly, my engine does not have metal, screw-on coil covers. Instead, it has larger, black plastic snap-on covers.




I later found that Part Number AJ812156, which is used on the 4.2 liter V8 engines in the 2007-2009 XK8/R and 2005-2009 XJ8, also fits on my engine. Although it is a black plastic snap-on cover, it has the same dimensions as the metal screw-on covers used in earlier model years. As it turns out, I was able to use it as a base to create a new pair of coil covers that look like those sold by Paragon but that attach using the snap-on fittings. (The button head Allen screws and washers are simply decorative.) Total cost was about $200.



These are the steps I used to transform the original black plastic coil covers to those in the photo.

First, the Jaguar part has a pair of shallow grooves that run lengthwise across the coil covers. To provide an even base for subsequent steps, I filled them with Bondo body filler. Before doing so, I drilled some small holes in each of the grooves to allow some of the putty to squeeze through and form “anchors” to help prevent it from detaching after it dried. I also put painter’s tape on top of each groove and cut openings for the filler, to minimize the amount of any excess that might have to be sanded off later.

Second, once the filler had dried, I taped off the edges and part of the bottom of each cover and cut a slightly oversized piece of 4 oz fiberglass cloth to place over the uncovered areas. I soaked the cloth with polyurethane resin, using a squeegee to remove the excess, and bending it under the ends of the covers. Once the resin had set sufficiently, I used a razor blade to cut along the tape-off line and remove the excess cloth. When the resin had fully cured, I applied a light gloss coat of resin. When the gloss coat had fully cured, I used wet and dry sandpaper to sand it smooth.

Third, to eliminate any remaining imperfections in the surface and to prepare it for painting, I applied several coats of Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Build Black Urethane Primer, allowing each coat to dry and sanding before applying the next. When using this product and the Eastwood Engine Paint, it is imperative that you wear adequate protective equipment: a P95 respirator with filters. This is because the primer and paint consist of two parts (urethane paint and catalyst), much like fiberglass resin, that – once combined -- can severely damage your lungs if inhaled.

Fourth, I used a battery-powered Dremel with a cylindrical grinding attachment to flatten six round, 3/8” surfaces on each cover where the chrome screws and washers would later be attached.

Fifth, I applied several coats of Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Temp Ceramic Gloss Red Engine Paint, lightly sanding the first coat after it had dried. I followed with additional coats, allowing each to dry (but not sanding) before applying the next.

Sixth, I applied silver “—R —” decals that I purchased from a seller (SupergraphicsF1) on www.ebay.co.uk who makes similar high-temp decals for brake calipers. These decals needed to be pressed on firmly using a plastic squeegee. I followed this with two light coatings of Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Gloss Clear to further ensure that the decals would not delaminate.

Finally, I drilled holes for the screws using a 7/32” bit and attached metric button head Allen chrome screws (M6 x 1 x 8) and washers (M6).

 

Nice result! Well done.