I am in the middle of replacing the front upper shock mounts for a third time, this time using a set of Wayne design mounts.
Anyways I saw a YouTube video of a different way to remove the coil-overs that did not remove the fulcrum bolt; you remove the plastic inner wheel liner and take the sway bar link off the lower control arm.
Thought I would give this a try and son of a gun....it works!!! Still have to unbolt the upper ball joint so that the lower control arm can go low enough to be able to tilt the coil-over out, but again...it works!!

And since I have the inner wheel liner off, I will remove the coolant recovery container out of the right side and give it a good cleaning.

Now a question, on the left side, there is "something" stuffed in a hole, see picture....what is this?
And there is a line with a cap on the end...what is this??

Thanks

 

I found information that this is the purge canister.....but what is the capped valve for?

 

Wow what a relief for sure! I have done my upper shock mounts three times now and really the most difficult part is that stupid fulcrum bolt. I tried the alternative method and got the struts out but could not put them back in. The clearance was maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch off as the struts were longer due to the fresh upper shock mounts. Have you put them back in using this method? Also, if you put them in, is it simply detaching the ball joint that gave you enough clearance? I just picked up a new, well new to me, XKR and will need to do front struts again as it is sagging and likely needs new springs. If I could easily sidestep the fulcrum bolt then it is not a problem.

Keep up the good work!

 

I have not re-installed the coil-overs yet, decided to pay a shop that has a nice spring compressor, much safer. Hope to get them back today.
Yes, on the upper ball joint separation along with the control arm end of the sway bar link. Actually, I removed the nut on the upper sway bar link first, but was unable to push the stud through the sway bar. The lower sway bar link you can easily just push out enough of the bolt to clear the link, then push the bolt back into place.

I did not remove any of the brake hardware which makes for a quite heavy piece to hold so as to not pull on the brake line while maneuvering the coil over out. Would have been much easier with the caliper and disc removed. Became quite a balancing "act" holding the hub/disc/caliper with my knees, using my hands to get the coil over out. Think I will remove the caliper and rotor before I attempt re-installation.

Had a setback. The shop that I dropped-off the coil overs at to have the upper mounts replaced called and told me they could not do them as their new spring compressor would not reach the small diameter of the spring.
I brought then home and got my spring compressors out, compressed the spring a little so I could get the shock rod nut off. But it was off-centered so much I could not get a wrench or socket on, I had to drill-out the three rivets holding on the top plate, remove it and then I was able to get the shock rod nut off.

Now there are Welsh mounts that have been on there for about three years, have been off-centered for a good 1.5 years. Under the top plate the plastic/rubber bushing was in pieces! No wonder they were making noise whenever the XK8 was moving.

I was going to go-ahead and put the new mounts on, but the spring was off center, so I needed to remove the spring compressors.
I was in the process of loosening the spring compressors when one of the hooks broke and everything went into motion!!!....spring, shock, spring compressors......!!!!
I was very lucky in that the spring bumped the heel of my right hand and that was it.
So much for me getting a Power Ball ticket.....used up all my luck this afternoon.....OK with me though....nice to still have my hands, head, etc.

I will be finding another shop.

 

Another update:
Second shop had no problem with replacing the upper mount for me. Charge was $80, half-day turn around.

To answer the question above, as to if the coil-overs can be installed without removing the fulcrum bolt....the answer is YES!
The right side is easier, quicker than the left.
On both sides I put the top of the coil-over into the space at the rear of the front wheel well and then put the bottom end of the shock through the upper control arm and then raised the top end into its spot.
On the left side I had to make space by removing the purge valve bracket, (one bolt, one nut) then it was a repeat of the right side.
Soooo much easier than fighting with the fulcrum bolt!!

Got everything back together, XK8 is back on the ground ready to roll.....

 

Well done....

 

Always love a success story. It's so nice to see your/my Jag roll out of the garage again after some repair made. Good luck, TM

 

Fantastic work and thanks for keeping us posted. Congrats on having a brand new front end for the most part! It was such a dream to drive mine after I completed the work.

 

Agree....quite nice to drive the XK8 and not have the constant squeak/clank coming from under the hood...although sure sounded like it was in the dash!
Just need to get a 4 wheel alignment done, get the steering wheel centered, then be all set for hopefully many miles of no problems.
Currently at 119,325 miles on the odometer.