After fixing several issues on the 2000 xk8( fuel pump connector, repair ABS module,and change the oil) I thought I would find out why I get drip from overhead console when I raise or lower the top. I was figuring that more than likely the hydraulic hoses were starting to go bad. I followed a post from a couple of years ago on how to remove visors and all to get to the hydraulic lines. I got it broke down and the hoses look like new. The leak is coming from the piston in the block that the hydraulic lines feed. I haven't seen in the forum where this has been the cause of the green shower.
I'm done for the day. I will take this part off one of my donor cars this week and make the repair.


At least I don't need to tear the car apart to replace the hydraulic lines.

 

Here's hoping that you dodged a green shower bullet....

 

I had a few hydraulic cylinders fail that way and sent one to Top Hydraulics for a rebuild.
Jaguar MSRP is over $500 for a new one so the rebuild is the way to go unless you get a good-used part.

 

I have a 99xk8 donor car that the PO had the hydraulics updated with new lines a couple of months before he totaled the car. I'll see how the cylinder looks and use it if it has no leaks.

 

+1 to motorcarman.

I'm in the construction trade, in the searing heat of the middle east, where we use a lot of hydraulic plant/equipment. Leaking seals are common and most manifolds/valve bodies leak after just a couple of years through constant wear and tear on our hydraulic gear. The designers (JCB, Wacker etc) have made it so that these seals can be replaced but there seems to be springs/bits everything that needs to be 100percent, cleaned, and torqued down properly. So sending it away to get it done properly would save the headache of "where did this little bit come from?"

For my own personal DIY work, for simpler jobs, I've virtually ditched the black rubber O ring seals and exclusively use the green HNBR (hydrogenated nitrile rubber). This lovely bit of advice came from a classic car mechanic, and the green O rings aren't very expensive and used alot in the HVAC industry.

 

David,
That is a good idea. I might play around with the bad one when I get it out. If I can replace the oring without too much trouble it could save other members the cost of a replacement cylinder. I like playing around with this kind of project. It won't hurt to try because it would go to the trash pile anyway.

 

Took the latch cylinder out of the donor cat tonight. It is showing signs of fluid seeping around piston too. It was a very little amount but I don't want to put into the car and a few months down the road will need replace it because the leaking will probably get worse.

I thought I would take David's advice and see what it would take to get to the oring. I got it apart fairly easily. Below is the proceedure.


This is the cylinder out of the car. I saw the little hole in the cylinder block and thought I must have an keeper screw to hold the piston in the block.

The hole is actually used to help push the retraining ring up so it can be removed

Here I used a small allen wrench and pushed in the hole. Then I was able to use a pic to remove the ring.

This is the piston out of the block and the retraining ring above. The front black oring I am going to replace. This is the one that has failed causing the seepage. The rear ring is the one that moves the piston in and out.


Tomorrow I will replsce the ring with a HNBR ring. I will figure out someway to test the cylinder for leakage before reinstalling. I'll take photos and post when I a chance to complete the job.
I should be able to do the repair for about a dollar plus my time. Less than the $500 that Bob, Motorcarman, said a new one cost.