Pulled the cam cover to check the tensioners, is this one missing the bottom pad?

Is this one missing the pad?

Is that a body crack along the backing plate?

 

Bullet dodged. There's not a lot holding that piston in place:- you've definitely had your money's worth...

Yes, the plastic shoe is missing so running metal to metal.

 

+1 to michaelh

Bet if you took the oil dump off you’ll find the broken plastic pieces.

Good luck on the fix.

 

So, after scrounging around I ended up ordering two upper tensioners and cam cover gaskets from Moss, they seemed to have non Chinese made tensioners, which I’d seen all over eBay, and they’re no longer listed with the Ford dealerships up here. I did the ‘zip tie’ method after double checking that the timing was still correct. Notes:
mid you’re going to do the zip tie method, you should have a basic working knowledge of engine work, ie:
how not to bind the camshaft thrust surface while lifting and reseating. Go SLoW and move back and forth down the camshaft as you are reseating the caps, you are actually depressing a couple valves depending on where the cam is, it’s completely doable if you are cautious. The bearing caps on a 97 are etched with the position number and direction,

don’t screw this up, and lube the bearings going back together. You will need shorter bolts for the new tensioners, I got mine at ace hardware, if you look closely they are marked 10.9, go get the same thread, metric shoulder m6 x 30 10.9 bolt. It’ll be a 10mm head, but there are some identical ones at some stores (8mm) head.
anyway, zip tie loosely a big loop around the intake cam and exhaust cam at the other non chain end, so that when you pop the exhaust cam up you don’t flung the end down and scratch a bearing surface or something.

Anyway, so here were my tensioners,


there’s a metal sleeve inside the plastic housing, so the crack isn’t going to cause you to loose pressure, but the lost pad is certainly going to allow slop, I had a weird rattle, that was probably in the valve train until pressure built up. Either way it’s done now, fixed the spark plug well leaks, so a very good day.

 

 

Good job! You were so close to having a new coffee table! The new ones are the metal-bodied tensioners, right?

 

Well done on the fix and thanks for taking the time for sharing the photos. I've done this job too and followed virtually every step you showed.

Job well done.

 

Great job. Some of us don't have the skills (or time) to do this. Am guessing it's a good idea to do both upper and lower at the same time.
My 2000 convertible (75k) doesn't have chain slap or noise at idle. Safe to do an easy test drive (30 mi or less)? Yes the tensioners are a must do and soon but the car was undriveable when I bought it (rough idle/RP/yellow/red).
I'd like to check out the car and see if anything else needs work. Reasonable price for an indie Jag mechanic (very good) to do?

 

Sent PM

 

my car had the same issues, I bought at 120,000, so I’ve actually been commuting in it with the tensioners this bad. I had some noises at 1400 rpm in the first 3 minutes til the tensioners pumped up, that’s it, I was afraid I would have enough slop to have the valves kiss a piston, but not sure now looking at it, definitely potentially could have jumped a tooth if I’d kept going as is. If I were you I’d check the spark plug wells for oil first, if they’re filled on the last two cylinders, causing misfires you’re going to have to do the cam covers anyway, so then you’ll get a look at the tensioners. My number one issue was actually a leaking coolant tank, it weeps at the seams at 3000 rpm and drips right into last plug on the drivers side causing misfires along with the oil in the well on that cylinder. I was cleaning them out once every 60 days as a stop gap wil I ordered the early style gaskets. If yours has the later gaskets, they’re easier to find, I’d just go to local parts place and knock that out. It’ll never run right with oil soaked plug boots. You can order just the boots from Rockauto right now for 2.00 each and get it all straight for nothing.

 

A belated well done, and some good advice on being careful with the cam R&R.

Someone will jump in here if I'm wrong, but I *think* the cams are at minimum stress when the flats are aligned (motor 45° ATDC).

 

My understanding is that when the engine is at 45° ATDC the pistons are in a position to where the cams can be rotated without the valves hitting the piston. I generally loosen the cams by backing out the cam bolts about a quarter to a half turn on a cap before proceeding to the next cap. There is still pressure on some of the caps because some of the valves are depress and the valve springs are putting pressure on the camshaft and caps.

 

Bobroy, you're right. I am confusing the two states.
On a 90° vee, no piston will be closer than 45° either side of TDC. It may be that there isn't a position where the cams are completely at rest.

Thanks for the correction.

 

you can do this job with the cams in any position, no need to unload the buckets.

never buy the quickset cam chain = failure imminent, the original chains are almost never worn. if you're doing the primaries, reuse the factory chains or buy a jaguar oe chain and sprocket if you like spending money. all of the ebay chain and guide kits are garbage.