Hi,

I have own a 2005 XKR Convertible and the top wont open. A couple of days ago the top couldn't close. It was an inch away from the latch but the latch wasnt in the right position. I followed the other posts instructions and closed it manually via the allan key.

Now the roof wont open. The rear windows go down but thats it. The results are the same if I use the switch on the center console or via the key on the door.

Last night I disconnected the car battery for 24 hour in hopes of reseting everything, that didnt help the roof still wont open.

Anyones help would be GREATLY apprecaited

 

Did you check the fluid level in the hyd fluid tank? If the level is good check to see that the pump valve is closed by turning it clockwise

You can go to the FAQ for xk8/r or you can go to my page to get additional info on the roof. By the way disconnecting the battery will not help with the roof operation. It is a series of hydraulics and electrical switches that must be in sync before it will work properly. With the windows going down first it seems to be in sync. This link might help http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairH...lOperation.htm

 

The hydraulic fluid looks ok, Its half way full. The valve is also closed completely clockwise.

 

Gus,

I am trying to following the instructions int he link you sent me to attempt to open the roof manually, perhaps it will resync things.

I am uncertain as to where exactly the "rams" are, what are they and what do they look at?

I have the windows down and the header latch unlatched.

This is my fourth convertible (first time a jag) i have never have had such problems with things getting out of synch.

 

Let’s get this roof operating.

If your roof is in the open position I want you to close the roof and latch it with the allen wrench. Once it is closed tightly I want you to push the close button for the roof. The rams left and right will push up completing the electrical circuit and allowing the windows to close. If they (windows) do not close you may have another problem.

I will stay on the computer for you!

 

Also, do you hear any grunts or groans from the system? Any pump noise at all when you're trying to open/it?

 

Hi everyone....thanks for all your help.

Where do I start?

First off I got the roof working and closing. The whole problem was actually a disconnected yell electrical connection. It’s located directly along the side housing of the hydraulic pump and cd changer case.

What happened was when I had the first problem closing the roof a couple days ago, I must have disconnected the cable accidently when placing the carpet cover on the rear side passenger trunk. go figure.

Guess what!??? I have MUCH bigger problem now. Wonder I have a hydraulic line burst somewhere in the header. The oil was seeping out of the visor brackets! I removed the header cover and still couldn’t see the line. There is a large black steel plate cover the area which also holds the latch mechanism. To remove everything is simply not possible at least for me. I would have to remove some gaskets and do some re-sealing. Tommorow I am bring the car to jag mechanic. Can’t wait to see what that will cost me.

This car is cursed.

 

Yah, those convertible hoses (more precisely the latch and hose right up there above your console) deteriorate over time and in the heat. That spot alone, and sometimes the little rams that raise/lower the top, will leak.

Gus has a reduced pressure valve that will lower the pressure SIGNIFICANTLY, but at this point, you've already ruptured the hose/fittings, so it won't help now. However, if you do the job yourself (see Gus's page from his links above in his signature) or get a shop to do it (dealer will be expensive, $1500 or so), then this little valve will prolong your new lines, probably longer than you'll own it.

Sorry it happened, I figured that was the ultimate cause of the refusal to raise and lower, it gives up first, then we push it farther and BAM --- green shower.

 

Well...$1500 later and my roof is fixed, two hydraulic lines replaced and new $250 oil replaced!!

I’m petrified if I have a problem with the motor, what it will cost me to fix.
Ouch,..i think my time has passed with this car...its up for sale!

 

shuvav, you just tackled one of the biggest concerns on the 1997-2006 convertibles. The motor is solid, only thing you should be thinking about is how you're going to keep your hair from being messed up all summer long with the top down. Seriously, a battery every 4 years or so, maybe a new serpentine belt after 60k miles, a coolant expansion tank (eventually it seems) but these are all small expenses, and easily done by yourself. The brakes being an XKR would be the biggest cost I see in your future.

If you do keep it, I would buy the pressure reducing valve from Gus and his partner Walt, it'll give longevity to your lifting rams (for the top).

 

Get the pressure reduction valve if you keep the car!