Lug/Wheel Nuts on aftermarket Wheels ??
I understand the whole hub-centric with flat lug nuts issue....just to rule out extra advice generated by the below question....
My question is:
If I change to aftermarket rims with the correct hub size to fit and make them hub-centric on my XK8 BUT the rims have cone shaped lug holes 5 X 4 3/4.....
1 - Can I still use my stock flat lug nuts without issue?
2 - I saw a post a few weeks ago with a link to "adjustable" lug nuts that had the cone shape but were in two pieces which allowed the cone to wobble around the nut resulting in a tight fit for lug patterns that were off sightly from the wheel pattern. I can't find the link now and anyone that has it please advise. Would these be better to use than the flat lug nuts?
Thanks for everyones time and advice.....
My question is:
If I change to aftermarket rims with the correct hub size to fit and make them hub-centric on my XK8 BUT the rims have cone shaped lug holes 5 X 4 3/4.....
1 - Can I still use my stock flat lug nuts without issue?
2 - I saw a post a few weeks ago with a link to "adjustable" lug nuts that had the cone shape but were in two pieces which allowed the cone to wobble around the nut resulting in a tight fit for lug patterns that were off sightly from the wheel pattern. I can't find the link now and anyone that has it please advise. Would these be better to use than the flat lug nuts?
Thanks for everyones time and advice.....
I would say you would be better off going with a beveled lug nut rather than the stock flat nuts...
And, if you are concerned about the difference between 120mm and 120.65mm wheels, I wouldn't personally worry about it... that 0.65 mm difference is less than a 32nd of an inch after all.
I went with 120 wheels on my ride and had the hub bore "drilled out" like 2mm or so to make them fit and to be hub-centric and they are a perfect fit.
And, if you are concerned about the difference between 120mm and 120.65mm wheels, I wouldn't personally worry about it... that 0.65 mm difference is less than a 32nd of an inch after all.
I went with 120 wheels on my ride and had the hub bore "drilled out" like 2mm or so to make them fit and to be hub-centric and they are a perfect fit.
Thanks Blindside, my new rims are 1.5mm to small on the hub, 72.6, so will have them resized to fit. Heck that's only 1/16" you would think the hubs would have that much torrarence anyway.
I'll see what looks like it will work for the lugs when I get the rims, I felt the same as you but I'm probably over thinking this.
I'll see what looks like it will work for the lugs when I get the rims, I felt the same as you but I'm probably over thinking this.
Update, got two of the four rims I ordered. The other two are still in transit, go figure.
Found a local shop that is very knowledgeable on resizing the hubs, $50 each, so will have the 72.6 hub bored out to 74.1 as soon as the other 2 rims show up.
Have decided to go with 255/45/18 tires front and back.
Now for the question of this thread, lug nuts.
The new rims have a 60 degree bevel so will use beveled lug nuts. I found two sets I like, one is just the bevel and the other is the bevel with a shank similar to the stock flat nuts.
Which would you go with? Just wondering if the nut with the shank would replicate the stock nut the closest and be the safest. I do like the acorn bullet nuts better though. As the wheels are grey, see post #5, with silver highlights I wanted grey lug nuts to blend in but can only find black, chrome or stainless steel capped. The black would look odd as the wheels are a medium grey so I think the chrome would look the best.
You opinions please.....
Found a local shop that is very knowledgeable on resizing the hubs, $50 each, so will have the 72.6 hub bored out to 74.1 as soon as the other 2 rims show up.
Have decided to go with 255/45/18 tires front and back.
Now for the question of this thread, lug nuts.
The new rims have a 60 degree bevel so will use beveled lug nuts. I found two sets I like, one is just the bevel and the other is the bevel with a shank similar to the stock flat nuts.
Which would you go with? Just wondering if the nut with the shank would replicate the stock nut the closest and be the safest. I do like the acorn bullet nuts better though. As the wheels are grey, see post #5, with silver highlights I wanted grey lug nuts to blend in but can only find black, chrome or stainless steel capped. The black would look odd as the wheels are a medium grey so I think the chrome would look the best.
You opinions please.....
Second set of lug nuts for above question. Using an iPad and there's no way to rename the photo's so only one per post will attach.
The extended thread shank will fit my new rims, actually a perfect fit for the lug hole size and the length is just short of the depth so the wheels will sit flat and the nut will torque down on the wheel only.
Thanks for your time...
The extended thread shank will fit my new rims, actually a perfect fit for the lug hole size and the length is just short of the depth so the wheels will sit flat and the nut will torque down on the wheel only.
Thanks for your time...
Last edited by Jandreu; Apr 25, 2015 at 12:17 PM.
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The shanked lug nuts would indeed offer more protection for you. I think chrome would look best. Make sure they're solid - you don't want to be messing around with capped lug nuts ever again....
Regardless of which lug nuts you buy, they're still a hassle when you have to change a flat. I purchased a Harbor Freight cordless impact gun which I carry in my trunk. Has plenty of torque, and gets the lug nuts off each wheel off in well under a minute.
Thanks all for the lug wrench recommendation, guess I'm lucky I've never had a flat tire while on the road plus I'm never more than 30 miles from home living on an island.
At $20 - $25 a set for the lug nuts I've decided to buy both and see which work the best.
At $20 - $25 a set for the lug nuts I've decided to buy both and see which work the best.
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