I need to fix the electronic plate in the ABS Modul.

How can I open the box, is it glued or clicked?
Thanks for your advises.

Daniel

 

It's glued. You can take it apart with careful, not deep, cuts all the way around. Work slowly and don't try to force it.

Some members have had luck drilling a hole just above the trouble area and plugging it after. See Gus' site: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Search the forum, plenty of how to's on this.

 

Do I understand it correct that the problematic solder-points are only below where the whole was drilled?

Daniel

 

This is the primary area known to break. There could be other issues with the module, so the risk in this method is not finding any other fault. However, the success rate has been very high.

 

Not too long ago, one Sabrina Pasterski used to visit here from time to time. It was kind of cool having her around.

Not restricted to just doing physics, she reported fixing the module by applying a soldering iron to the terminals without opening the box. How did she know how much heat to apply? She described it (sort of) but I can't remember and can't find the post.

 

Using a 1" or less hole saw with the drill bit removed is a simple way to gain access to the pins, but I would not attempt it without a drill press, even a cheap one to hold a 3/8 power drill.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I repaired mine by drilling a 3/4"hole in the corner using a drill press and a 3/4" hole saw with the pilot drill removed. After repairing I was able to install a black 3/4" plug. It's very hard to notice it was even repaired.

 

Hey Dennis,

I am still around, in fact, I gave a talk in NJ early last month.

I have not had an issue yet with the repair. It has to have been over a year ago, because I was still at MIT at the time. The amount of time one would apply the heat would depend on the wattage of the iron. It is more art than science, hot enough to re-set the original joint but not so hot that the plastic holding the pins becomes liquid (soft is OK, and of course it will smoke.) By holding the iron to the 'seam edge' of the case and timing it, you can get an idea how long it takes before you have to worry about the case material flowing or burning away. Having said that, it is probably safer to just remove the unit and take the case apart or drill a hole.

I got her at 76K and she now has 91K, so only 3,000 miles a year. So far the only expense has been two spare keys, five new Conti DWS tires, two rear muffler hangers, one map light retainer, lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends, a fuel filter, and regular oil changes.

The only visit it has had to the dealer in 5 years was to code and cut the spare keys I bought on E-bay. :O)

Best,

Sabrina

Edit: My original repair was in late 2012 with 86K, so it has lasted 5,000 miles and 16 months to date.

 

Sabrina,

Hey back at ya. Either you've been keeping tabs on us or you're clairvoyant. I'm prepared to believe either.

I agree with your conclusion about the safest ways to repair the ABS box. On my '01, a few years ago, I opened the case by going around the perimeter with a cutoff wheel on a Dremel. A bit of a chore but probably safest for someone like me who has no drill press.

Glad to hear your XK8 is treating you so well. Cambridge winters and all. My first one, an '01 that I bought in '06, gave me 7+ years, 60k+ miles, and required only one major repair (suspension stuff). Not too shabby.


Let me know next time you'll be speaking in this part of the world (my head may explode, but I'll risk it). And while you're here ... I'm going to send you a PM about something going on in a hydraulic system that I do not understand. Maybe you can 'splain it to me.

Stay well, Sabrina