XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Polybush postmortem

  #1  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:55 AM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default Polybush postmortem

As I'm getting creaking from my front suspension I decided to remove the poly bushes from the control arms.

I removed the top bushes today, these have been on for two years and where free replacement parts from Powerflex after the end washers badly corroded on the first set.

The poly parts looked in near perfect condition.



However there is fairly deep scoring on the inner tube and what looks a bit like heat marks.



I'm not 100% sure where the creaking is coming from whether its top bottom or somewhere else but both sets or arms were very stiff, OEM type refitted.



Pics of the lower arm bushes tomorrow.
 

Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-20-2019 at 03:31 AM.
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (03-20-2019)
  #2  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:59 AM
giandanielxk8's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 3,396
Received 1,336 Likes on 722 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RaceDiagnostics
As I'm getting creaking from my front suspension I decided to remove the poly bushes from the control arms.

I removed the top bushes today, these have been on for two years and where free replacement parts from Powerflex after the end washers badly corroded on the first set.

The poly parts looked in near perfect condition.



However there is fairly deep scoring on the inner tube and what looks a bit like heat marks.



I'm not 100% sure where the creaking is coming from whether its top bottom or somewhere else but both sets or arms were very stiff, OEM type refitted.



Pics of the lower amp bushes tomorrow.

I'm no expert, but from what I understand, the poly bushes require periodic re-lubrication to prevent creaking and noises.
 
  #3  
Old 03-19-2019, 12:08 PM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by giandanielxk8
I'm no expert, but from what I understand, the poly bushes require periodic re-lubrication to prevent creaking and noises.
Yes, I am aware of that although they are sold as "fit and forget".

I got this email from Powerflex after my first set failed. I will be keeping this set and may fit them again at some point if I get fed up with the OEM ones again.

In theory, if the contact points are greased they should be a fit and forget part.

We used to supply copper grease with our parts that in extreme temperatures could dry, however we now use a PTFE/Silicone grease that is much better at coping in those sort of conditions.

However with any part that rotates and is open to the elements, an occasional re-grease is never going to do it any harm.

It’d be impossible to give a recommend mileage/age to do this however.

Kind Regards
 
  #4  
Old 03-19-2019, 12:22 PM
Jon89's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 12,525
Received 4,273 Likes on 2,810 Posts
Default

My experience with poly suspension components on my wife's 2006 XK8 has been quite favorable thus far. In early January 2016 at just under 99,000 miles, Wayne (cjd777) and I installed the Welsh Enterprises poly upper shock mount kits along with a full set of poly upper control arm bushings sourced through ebay in the UK. Now at 118,200 miles, the car's suspension continues to perform both normally and quietly. Both front shocks were replaced at the same time, so new shocks may indeed contribute to the poly suspension components holding up longer. We had previously replaced both rear shocks in October 2014 at just under 84,000 miles....
 

Last edited by Jon89; 03-19-2019 at 12:25 PM.
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (03-20-2019)
  #5  
Old 03-19-2019, 12:40 PM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

Here is another picture showing the washers used with the upper arm bushes.

The one on the left is the original mild steel zinc coated one from Powerflex, the middle one is the same after two years of use, and the one on the right is one I made from stainless steel and has also had two years of use.

The original ones rust badly in the climate we have here, that caused it to bind to the poly part of the bush, that caused the washer to rotate and destroy the caster shim.



I reported this to Powerflex two years ago and they supplied a new full set, rather than refit as is I turned a set of new washers from stainless steel which has stopped this problem reoccurring.

Here is a pic with the rusted washers showing the destroyed and splayed out caster washer (note the red paint on the edge that designates its thickness)



Replacement SS washers cut from a bar.



 

Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-19-2019 at 12:49 PM.
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (03-20-2019)
  #6  
Old 03-19-2019, 01:56 PM
Johnken's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: New Jersey USA
Posts: 5,458
Received 1,808 Likes on 1,115 Posts
Default

I love the washers! When I saw your rusted one it reminded me of yesterday's upper shock mount replacement. That's exactly what was binding the upper a arm bolt.

RD, I'm sure you've thought of this but maybe it'll help someone. After you remove that bolt, don't forget to polish it. It'll make installations easier, next time removal easier, and if your like me: got it all back together, look down and realize the brake caliper is still on the wrong side from your job! (Means you're going to have to hammer that fun bolt out agaga ouch!).

Good news, if you've polished it, it just slips right out in seconds. Your biggest headache will be those shims :-).

Best way I found to polish dirt and corrosion off: put a 24mm socket on your drill or impact wrench. Brake cleaner to remove surface dirt, pb blaster (loosens nuts) soak shaft. Grab an old medium sponge sander that you'll never use on wood again. Wrap sponge around shaft, start the drill. Let the sponge do the work, slide up down.

When you're done ensue the washer slides freely all the way.

BTW, I mentioned shims above. The thick ones are 0.063inches thick. That's almost exactly 1/2 the thickness of the flat washers from powerflex. IOW if you lost your 2 thick shims (factory: 2 thick one thin on front side of left front wheel; 2 thick one thin on rear side of right front wheel) this will save the day.

Not trying to hijack thread, but when I saw your photos it reminded me.

John
 
The following 3 users liked this post by Johnken:
cjd777 (03-20-2019), DavidYau (03-21-2019), RaceDiagnostics (03-19-2019)
  #7  
Old 03-19-2019, 04:22 PM
frankc's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Malvern, England
Posts: 1,286
Received 456 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

A bit more fine work RD. I do like those washers cut from a bar. Nicely done.

I too was with the belief that Powerflex were a case of fit and forget for life. Fitted them on all the cars I have had over quite a few years and, touch wood etc, no problems at all.

Compare that to the original wishbone bushes what a mess they were. The photo below was what remained of my original bush all that was left on the fulcrum bolt, just look at the washers piled up at the top of the bolt. Previous owner really cocked it up trying to solve an alignment problem. Took a lot of work, swearing and 4 hunter alignments to get the steering back to true.




 
  #8  
Old 03-19-2019, 06:43 PM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

My first OEM set looked a bit like that too when I took them off, lets hope I'm not back here in two years with another autopsy on the ones I'm putting one. Given the car is now a summer only car and will not see salt again I hope they don't end up that bad this time.

I just tested the tube on the new OEM type bush, the bad news is that it is mild steel, not SS as on the poly bush, all the parts in these bushes of any type should be SS to prevent these corrosion issues.
 
The following users liked this post:
Johnken (03-19-2019)
  #9  
Old 03-20-2019, 05:53 AM
frankc's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Malvern, England
Posts: 1,286
Received 456 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RaceDiagnostics
My first OEM set looked a bit like that too when I took them off, lets hope I'm not back here in two years with another autopsy on the ones I'm putting one. Given the car is now a summer only car and will not see salt again I hope they don't end up that bad this time.

I just tested the tube on the new OEM type bush, the bad news is that it is mild steel, not SS as on the poly bush, all the parts in these bushes of any type should be SS to prevent these corrosion issues.
If anyone can sort it I am sure you can. These bushes and mountings will corrode/rust no matter what you do. Its all a question of scale. Sure a SS one will last longer but those you made look like they will last a few years anyway.
 
  #10  
Old 03-20-2019, 06:17 AM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is online now
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,380
Received 16,748 Likes on 12,141 Posts
Default

I'm convinced the binding problem with the bush sleeves is mainly from water etc working its way in from the inner faces of the crossbeam in service because the bushes (either OE or Poly) form a reasonable seal at the outer ends.




I always "coppaslip" the fulcrum bolt but pay particular attention to the opening in the crossbeam where the bolt is visible and open to the elements.




Graham
 
The following 2 users liked this post by GGG:
Johnken (03-20-2019), RaceDiagnostics (03-20-2019)
  #11  
Old 03-20-2019, 06:26 AM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

Here is a look at the lower arm bushes, these have been on for four years.

There is now no trace of grease, just a hardened dry crusty material, it was very difficult to pound out the first steel tube, took 5 mins to hammer it out. The others were a bit easier.

So much for this to be a fit and forget bearing surface. If I were to refit I would be planning to remove and regrease at least every two years for the wet and salty climate we have here.







 

Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-20-2019 at 11:32 AM.
The following users liked this post:
GGG (03-20-2019)
  #12  
Old 03-20-2019, 07:11 AM
SamtheSham's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: S.W.Florida
Posts: 1,323
Received 478 Likes on 323 Posts
Default

Years ago I installed polygraphite infused bushings on my 1979 Corvette all around. The idea was that the graphite would lube and prevent noise and the chafing that you are describing. I don't remember the brand of the bushings, but they were advertised in most U.S. Auto magazine of the time. They worked great and never caused any problems for as long as I owned the car (another 12 years). I haven't seen them advertised lately, but haven't been looking.
 
  #13  
Old 03-20-2019, 11:16 AM
RaceDiagnostics's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,772
Received 883 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

Metalastic bushes pushed in this afternoon.



They went in fairly easily.


 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SeismicGuy
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
11
02-09-2017 05:29 PM
FastKat
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
7
06-27-2014 01:46 AM
Tijoe
Wheels / Tires, Suspension & handling
4
04-05-2013 08:11 AM
entwistlecymru
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
4
11-20-2012 08:32 AM
ajmac
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
1
03-03-2010 06:28 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Polybush postmortem



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:31 PM.