I replaced these dampers years ago and although I do not have a recolection of exactly how I performed the service, I am sure I never had this issue.
Spring compressors are in place and the 17mm nut has been removed but the top of the shock will not come out of the damper?

Has anyone else exepreinced this with a little intel?
I tried lubricant and tried using a drift and dead blow on the top of the shock mount but it will not budge.
Also tried wiggling and rotating the assembly to try and free it up - no luck.
Before I break out the map gas, thought I would doublecheck here as I see no mentions on searches of people having this issue?

 

You're so close to having no top damper mount bushing, probably just as easy to drill out the 3 rivets, take the mount lid off and apply gentle heat to the damper mount disc. Will probably just pop straight off.
Do you know what brand mount? I have found the biggest culprit for tight discs is Welsh, but usually ream all makes before assembly.

 

Seems as good a place to start as any. I will followup.
I have no idea what brand I chose back then?
It was all black damper material that I had to basically hack out of there so I could get better access to the shock shaft
I can say that I do not remember any struggle when I put these on the last time. Didn't have to force anything for sure.

 

if it was black material - most likely Welsh poly mounts.

 

Nope - no fun at all.

Have drilled out the rivets which gave me some additional space to work but after using a chisel to try and rotate the part and map gas to heat it up additionally, it still doesn't budge.
Next step is going to see me cut up the plate entirely with the cutting wheel so that I can at least release the spring compressors, pull the spring off and only have to deal with the shock and this part.
Maybe if I can get my big channel locks on it and get some rotational back and forth on it, I can get it free.
This was supposed to be a straightforward swap that I have done before. Anything but at this juncture.

 

Bernie, stack some larger nuts on the shaft, tight fit as possible and cut the rubber out from under the washer. Now use a 2 or 3 prong puller to get under that washer and the shaft of the puller in the middle of the shock shaft.
If the puller you have is too big, use the jaws on the side of the mount.

 

"Black" means it was welsh, ( my kits are black but we know it wasn't one of them) pretty much every welsh disc l have seen had to be reamed. Might be heavy plating or something else, but all very tight.
Might not notice going on because of the nut doing the work, but you certainly notice it coming off.

 

Well,

Turned out that a puller was indeed necessary so thanks for the suggestion.
The amount of force needed to get these moving was not insignificant but then again, not overally difficult either. Once they started to move, they slipped off easily.
Just a cautionary tale for the rest of the forum that this is a potential if you are setting about changing out your dampers by yourself.
It may seem straightforward but at times, we run into these issues that elongates and makes the work more challenging than expected.
Appreciate the rest of the responses as well.
Thanks all.

 

I just did this job yesterday ; removed some Welsh poly bushings and replaced with a set of Wayne's mounts. I had to rent a puller to get them off...that was the way to go.

 

What size puller did you need, i am going to be doing this soon and they seem pretty cheap to buy.

 

I'm not sure what size it was, but I rented it from Autozone and it was a 3 prong puller. Also it was adjustable, and I ended up using the smaller of the 2 teeth sizes in order to work best.

 

I had purchased a set of three pullers years ago , so I already had them in my toolkit.
They aren't labelled for size but it was the middle one of the set. Probably around a 6" size if I was forced to give an answer.
Pullers have a pretty wide scope of application so it doesn't need to be exact to the part. Tighten the arms down before trying to get it on there or else the puller just flops around and you cannot get it lined up. I also used a center punch to make a divit on the top of the shock to allow the tip of the puller to stay in place and not wander.

 

I went back and found my rental puller receipt, and it was a 6" (as referenced above). The pointed tip of the puller did want to wander a bit over the shock rod, but with some proper initial tension, it was then easy to tighten up and pull the mount off.