My door locks are crazy ..clearly many problems over the years to judge by the door card condition.
when purchases all al mess but replaced the drivers door computer and all good.
Suddenly months later went into bounce mode.
Now if I press open it bounces about 8 times and maybe unlocks.
Have replaced the microswitch on driver's door and still bounces ..passenger door switch tests ok .

Ideas welcome...throw me a bone

 

There are two switches in the lock mechanism: one for lock/unlock status and one changeover. There's another for the door open/closed but I don't think that's an issue as you'd see a report in the IP message centre.

Fulll disclosure:- I haven't had the pleasure of working on this issue yet.

 

I have taken this sodding thing out so many times I can get the lock out in 6 min. Changed the switch in the drivers door and tested the one in the passenger ( locked or unlocked microswitch) so I guess I will have to change the one in the passenger door.
What is strange is that when you pull up the outer handle with the car locked the window drops on the drivers door . Is that normal? It does not happen on the passenger door.
Is this a clue?

 

Switch number 4 on the exterior handle...

Not normal. It sounds like the door 'thinks' it is unlocked and is prepping the window to clear the frame, but the latch is still in the 'locked' position.
...but the car isn't convinced you're trying to open the door so the latch doesn't fire?

 

Changed the switch in the photo and its still the same,slightly shortened the rod from the door handle to the switch and no difference.

 

Looks like two switches sharing a common in one package.

I thought originally that the lock status and polarity-swop changeover switch were both external to the actuator, but it appears that only the lock status one is. There is also more than one location for that external switch. O&DR's video shows a single switch directly on the actuator arm, whereas in Gus' pictures it's located differently (at the opposite end of the mechanism to the 'door open' switch) and your wiring colours match his picture:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I guess (if the Electrical Guide is correct) that is the lock status switch, and only the Y and BK wires are actually used.

That would have been my first stop given that the door is unsure of its locked status, but you've replaced it... Could there be something mechanical obstructing the actuator movement?

 

That jag repair switch is totally different to mine ..I am wondering if the problem lies in the passenger door but the drop when locked says no.
I did spot something in one post saying that the switch for the open closed should not close until the actuator is in the fully locked position ...Think I got to pull it out and try this as I am sure mine closes early in the movement.

 

Well Not solved but workable.
Originally after fitting a new computer in drivers door worked perfect .
After six months started bouncing, tried "everything" but in the end took off the solenoid and put it upsidedown on the lock bracket . If you cut the wires to the solenoid the window drop does not work .I could press the open and then use the key to open the doors without the alarm going off. Solenoids still bounced in both doors. Engaging gear locked the passenger door.
Recent attempts to get back to normal have failed, There are 4 microswitches on the lock and one inside the motor driven solenoid so who knows.
So this time having failed to stop the bounce I detached the solenoid ,re fitted upside down and now I have no bounce (Why is it different to last time ? ) and the door does not lock with the engagement of the gears ( wife happy ).I press the unlock to disable the alarm and open with the key. I did consider connecting a relay to the interior lights which disconnected the horns allowing me just to use the key ......??
I have a third party set of solenoids/remotes etc but would still have to press the unlock to disable the alarm then the remote button .....??

Still looking for the bone .