Puttint the top back up yesterday, the top stalled at the high position, started to sink back down. I kept the pump running, after a few seconds top contined it's sucessful journey to closure. I believe maybe a couple of new hydronic hoses and maybe the rebuild of the pistons are in my future.

 

Check a couple of things first:

1. Is the fluid level at the pump (above the cd changer in the trunk) between the two embossed line on the tank? If not, top it up.

2. Is the color of the fluid yellow or green? If you have the yellow fluid it must be replaced with Pentosin CHF-11S. The yellow fluid gets thick with age and slows down the top.

 

Fluid is at proper level and it's green. Found small amount of fluid at the base of the unit. The metal plate above the cd. Also one of the hydronic hoses has a couple of spots where the plastic coating is flaking. Did not confim there is any leaking, but those lines are now on my list for replacing.

 

Could indeed be that the hoses and/or rams need replacement, but first: Check that the manual valve on the pump is fully closed clock-wise. If partially open the top behaves exactly as you described.

More likely that your hoses are shot, but worth a check..

 

I believe there is a company that fabricates Good quality hoses. Seen it mention here from time it time. Consences seems to be: don't replace with Juagar supplied parts. Also notice the cost of the hoses vary over a wide range. I'm going to check with a local mechanic and possibly supply the parts myself.

 

Chuck - Cabriolet Hydraulics and Top Hydraulics are 2 of the companies that offer replacement hoses of better quality and higher pressure ratings than OEM. I believe there is another company - check Gus's website (www.jagrepair. com) A full set of 6 runs about $600; just the 4 ram hoses are about $350 - $400.

 

Concensense needed here. Top is struggling to close. Found coating flaking off one of the hoses. All hoses are original. There is minor fluid loss. Should I just bite the bullet and order the entire package from Top Hydrolics, all hoses and strut re-build, turn it over to the machanic and call it a day?

 

That is certainly one way to address the issue. On the other hand, I tend not to fix that what's not broke.

 

Your top struggling is not related to a hose failing if the fluid level is correct. However, they may need to be replaced my suggestion to you is do not pull or bend them. As for the roof struggling could be related to air in the lines, run the roof a few more times and see if you can work it out. In the mean time I would spray a little WD40 on the shafts of the rams to add a little lubrication from the top end. The rams are equipped with “O” rings and a seal that could be dry.

I have a link on my page that has 2 recommended aftermarket hoses replacements one from Top Hydraulics and the other that if from Colliflower in know nothing about the Cabriolet Hydraulics hoses.

 

Chuck,

Other than the leak, all may be OK.

A fluid leak in an otherwise-normal system with good fluid level can cause the top to struggle or even stall. This can be confirmed by a simple test. (I understand that you can't do this test now; someone else may want to confirm the result.)

Starting with the top down, loosen the compression nut on the upper of the two latch hose connections on the pump ... just enough to create a slight leak, not a flood. (Doing this from memory, but almost certain it's the upper one.) Don't forget a rag there to catch any fluid.

Try to raise the top and observe the result. How can a latch hose effect raising the top? That hose is pressurized the entire time the top is going up and a leak there will cause the same trouble that a leak in a ram hose would.

 

I am not sure what you are suggesting but the latch and the rams are controlled by separate valves. As for the bleeding the system that is a complicated system to do correctly. Because of the configuration of the push /push system the close fluid does not touch the open fluid system so the only thing you will be bleeding is the pump itself. The system is self bleeding and should not need to be manually corrected. If you elect to do this do this for whatever reason use caution 1600psi is nothing to fool around with.

 

I thought this was pretty clear, but anyway ... my prior post described something I've observed: a fluid leak in an otherwise-normal system, even with good fluid level, can in fact cause raising the top to struggle or to stall. This can be confirmed by artificially creating a small fluid leak (by loosening just a bit a compression nut on one of the hoses).

This result is contrary to the idea that if the fluid level is good, then the top struggling is not related to a hose failing. That's not right.

 

Gus, tried your suggestion of running the top up and down a few times. In fact, did it 4 times. It is no longer stalling at the top. Everything seems to be working in sequence. I will keep my eye on that bit of fluid I found (and cleaned up) on the base plate of the pump. A mechanic just topped up the pump last week and he might have dripped a minor amount. I just got the car and the previous owner had only put the top down twice in the past year. The hose is flaking, however, which does mean I have a rebuild in my future no matter what. And, I'm of a mind of just doing it all at once and getting struts and the latch rebuilt, along with new hoses. In the meantime, it appears I will be able to enjoy the use of the top until I get into the "nonconvertible season" which I can schedule the work. Thank you for your help.

 

I find it helpful to operate the top in all weather temperatures even when not operating the car.

Cycle once in the am temps,then the pm temps, Even cold winter days. I keep the rams lubricated with Vaseline.Do this twice a week if not operating the top.

 

A newbe here, limited knowledge and tools, but wanting to do all I can and maybe develop some skills. So just how do I get to the rams? I believe the back seat has to come out and then the side trim? Or am I way off here?

 

This link from my page should help

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource